93 Skier Wake

[Levi900RR]

The only thing I have put hours on the last few weeks is my Evolution cover... I am headed out later today though. Will report back. I'll try and remember to bring the camera.

[martinarcher]

The only thing I have put hours on the last few weeks is my Evolution cover... I am headed out later today though. Will report back. I'll try and remember to bring the camera.

Looking forward to pics and a progress report! Don't forget your board!

[Levi900RR]

OK, No pics, but here is the report.

The wake is insane

My Check Valves Suck

I had to take the intake hose off right after the check valve and throw it overboard to fill the bags cause I couldn't get the fill side to prime. There is just too much restriction from the valve.

Once they were full the wake was fricken sweet. My buddy landed his back roll. I got around a few times but just couldn't ride off. I'm still a little gun shy with the new wake.

Same deal on the drain side. I was able to get it primed but my check valves are so restrictive it took FOREVER to drain the bags.

All in all I give this outing a B -

A little tweaking and my whole set up will be perfect.

Edited October 2, 2010 by Levi900RR

[skier_88]

Sweet!!! There will be plenty of tweaking but I'm sure you'll have a lot of fun

[martinarcher]

Awesome man. I remember the first time we took the boat up to 20mph with 1000lbs in it. Our eyes were pretty big. The ramp it makes is awesome too.

As far as the check valve, yeah they need to be pretty free flowing or it will be tough to get water in, and then back out.

I used a 1 1/2" valve meant for sump pumps and sewage systems. it did the trick of keeping the prime, but also added very little restriction if any to the system. Here's one....

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&productId=100021846&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&ci_src=64119933&ci_sku=100021846&cm_mmc=shopping-_-googleads&locStoreNum=6866&marketID=34

[Levi900RR]

Is that the same one you used on the drain? You just necked it down to 1"?

[martinarcher]

Is that the same one you used on the drain? You just necked it down to 1"?

Yep. I bought some PVC fittings to neck it down to 1"

[Levi900RR]

Sweet,

My action items are:

Replace one way check valve on intake line.

Replace my 3/4 inch drain system with 1".

Replace the one way check valve on the drain line.

I need to re-position the fill / drain lines where the snap onto the bags. They are rubbing on my side pannels a little and my interior cost to much for that to keep happening.

I think the system should really rock out after that.

Thanks again for all the help!

[martinarcher]

Sweet,

My action items are:

Replace one way check valve on intake line.

Replace my 3/4 inch drain system with 1".

Replace the one way check valve on the drain line.

I need to re-position the fill / drain lines where the snap onto the bags. They are rubbing on my side pannels a little and my interior cost to much for that to keep happening.

I think the system should really rock out after that.

Thanks again for all the help!

Awesome. Sounds like your about there. Is your drain thru hull 1 inch too? I upgraded the original thru hull on the Skier to 1" stainless and then added a second. They are available here.

Edited October 4, 2010 by martinarcher

[Levi900RR]

That is the one I ordered. I'm gonna buy a new bilge and just re-build that whole system too. Mine doesn't work very well.

[martinarcher]

Good call. Adding ballast is always a good time to make sure you bilge system is up to par.

[Levi900RR]

Yes, all water in.... must go out!

[Levi900RR]

Got the new check valve in, fill works awesome. I also re-configured my drain so it goes directly up an T's into the bilge drain line which has a check valve. Gravity keeps the drain side primed.

Lake tested it today and it worked perfect! I still need to adjust the hoses and add a 90 for the drains at the bags just to eliminate a possible kink but its pretty much ready to go. Both bags filled in about 5 mins, and drained the same. I'm still going to up my drain circuit to 1" line next year.

I can now check semi integrated ballast system off my list!

Edited October 9, 2010 by Levi900RR

[skier_88]

Awesome!! A few modifications here and there to these Skiers and you have just as good as a new boat!! with LESS the money:clap:

[martinarcher]

Awesome man. Glad to hear you got it all working good. I know that system works great! I loved it for the coupe years we used it!

Anything to make that backroll a bit easier is good!

[h20addiction]

I'm curious how many people you have onboard when using full ballast?

[Levi900RR]

I'm curious how many people you have onboard when using full ballast?

I usually run 3 people in the boat, 1 riding. I have had as many as 6 total.

[martinarcher]

I usually run 3 people in the boat, 1 riding. I have had as many as 6 total.

On my Skier we usually had 4-5 with full ballast. Sometimes a 6th. The more the better.

[Levi900RR]

Update to my system, I was not super happy with the performance of the fill pump location, I would have to put the boat on plane to get it to prime. I have also been thinking about cleaning up the plumbing a bit...

SO, I got a dedicated thru hull for the intake and 2 new 1" stainless thru hulls for the drain / bilge drain. Im going to move the pumps under the floor where Matt's are. I would think with the dedicated thru hull for the intake and having the pumps below the waterline that they will prime way better.

When the whole thing is done, ill shoot a little vid like Matt's so you all can see.

[AdeL]

Hi All

I really have a couple of questions for Martin archer but thought I'd post it in the general domain so that other members now and in the future know that I've undertaken this project. Congratulations and many thanks to Martin Archer for an excellent set of tools for helping people to install a ballast system into an older boat. I have a 94 Echelon LX that I have already started to install a copy of what MartinArcher did to his 88 Skier. I have a couple of questions:

1) Why did you not use the existing bilge pump outlet in the hull for the drainage of the Fly High's. I'm thinking of teeing into that line to save a hole in the hull.

2) It looks as though you managed to get the 1" clear hose onto the Tsunami pump fittings. That could not of been easy. Did you heat the hose up to get it on the pumps fittings?

3) I cannot find any 1 1/4" hose for a decent price. i only need about 4 feet. Any ideas?

I will take photo's as I go along so other may benefit just as I have from your posts. I have the spreadsheet, the diagram and I've watched the YouTube video multiple times figuring out how to do this. I have just ordered my bags from Bakes and hope to get all the plumbing done this week. I'll probably have the elctrics done next week.

Thanks.

[Levi900RR]

Hi All

I really have a couple of questions for Martin archer but thought I'd post it in the general domain so that other members now and in the future know that I've undertaken this project. Congratulations and many thanks to Martin Archer for an excellent set of tools for helping people to install a ballast system into an older boat. I have a 94 Echelon LX that I have already started to install a copy of what MartinArcher did to his 88 Skier. I have a couple of questions:

1) Why did you not use the existing bilge pump outlet in the hull for the drainage of the Fly High's. I'm thinking of teeing into that line to save a hole in the hull. I tried this, too many check valves. It can be done but I'm adding a second drain...

2) It looks as though you managed to get the 1" clear hose onto the Tsunami pump fittings. That could not of been easy. Did you heat the hose up to get it on the pumps fittings? Pretty sure the intake hose is 1 1/2" as well as the output of the drain.

3) I cannot find any 1 1/4" hose for a decent price. i only need about 4 feet. Any ideas? I got mine at Lowes, I don't remember it being too expensive, even so I may have a 4' piece you can have if you pay shipping

I will take photo's as I go along so other may benefit just as I have from your posts. I have the spreadsheet, the diagram and I've watched the YouTube video multiple times figuring out how to do this. I have just ordered my bags from Bakes and hope to get all the plumbing done this week. I'll probably have the elctrics done next week.

Thanks.

Hey Adel, I know you directed your questions towards MA but here is my take...

[AdeL]

Hey Adel, I know you directed your questions towards MA but here is my take...

Hi Levi

Thanks for your input on the situation and especially offering me some 1 1/4" hose. I've just been out to a fleet and farm shop and found some hose on a reel that they sell by the foot, I don't mind paying for what I need I just did not want to pay $25 for 10 feet when I only need a couple.

1) Surely only 2 check valves are required, in my set up anyway. One valve for the ballast drain pump and one valve for the bilge pump. Both hose's would join after the valves using a 'Y' joint and then go out of the same hole in the hull.

2) I reviewed MA's you tube video again and it definitely looks as though he squeezed 1" hose onto those pumps. Take a look. I'm going to place the end of my 1" hose in boiling water and see if I can get that to work.

Again, thanks for the input. It's good to share different points of view, especially to help me avoid a big error.

Regards

Ade

[martinarcher]

Hi All

I really have a couple of questions for Martin archer but thought I'd post it in the general domain so that other members now and in the future know that I've undertaken this project. Congratulations and many thanks to Martin Archer for an excellent set of tools for helping people to install a ballast system into an older boat. I have a 94 Echelon LX that I have already started to install a copy of what MartinArcher did to his 88 Skier. I have a couple of questions:

1) Why did you not use the existing bilge pump outlet in the hull for the drainage of the Fly High's. I'm thinking of teeing into that line to save a hole in the hull.

2) It looks as though you managed to get the 1" clear hose onto the Tsunami pump fittings. That could not of been easy. Did you heat the hose up to get it on the pumps fittings?

3) I cannot find any 1 1/4" hose for a decent price. i only need about 4 feet. Any ideas?

I will take photo's as I go along so other may benefit just as I have from your posts. I have the spreadsheet, the diagram and I've watched the YouTube video multiple times figuring out how to do this. I have just ordered my bags from Bakes and hope to get all the plumbing done this week. I'll probably have the elctrics done next week.

Thanks.

Sorry Adel. I need to set up a topic watch for this thread. I missed your post yesterday. Here's my take....

1. I didn't use the existing bilge drain for a couple reasons.

i. The existing bilge line is 3/4" and I wanted to drain as quickly as possible so I went all 1"

ii. This allowed me to keep the bilge separated. I consider the bilge a safety system of the boat and didn't want to disturb it's integrity to empty the boat of unwanted water. If I had an accident with a bag or the hull I didn't want the bilge pump sharing it's throughput with a ballast pump.

2. Yep. It wasn't easy, but it's not impossible to get it over the pump. I used my heat gun to heat up the tubing until it was nice and soft. I also coated the pumps threaded input tube with dish soap which also really helps the tubing to slide on.

3. I just did an exhaust project and these guys were by far the best place I could find for hard and softwall hose.

Good luck on your project! Keep us posted with pics! Oh, and be sure to put those low restriction one way valves on your main fill and drain lines to keep the system primed. Ask Levi how important they are.

[AdeL]

Sorry Adel. I need to set up a topic watch for this thread. I missed your post yesterday. Here's my take....

1. I didn't use the existing bilge drain for a couple reasons.

i. The existing bilge line is 3/4" and I wanted to drain as quickly as possible so I went all 1"

ii. This allowed me to keep the bilge separated. I consider the bilge a safety system of the boat and didn't want to disturb it's integrity to empty the boat of unwanted water. If I had an accident with a bag or the hull I didn't want the bilge pump sharing it's throughput with a ballast pump.

2. Yep. It wasn't easy, but it's not impossible to get it over the pump. I used my heat gun to heat up the tubing until it was nice and soft. I also coated the pumps threaded input tube with dish soap which also really helps the tubing to slide on.

3. I just did an exhaust project and these guys were by far the best place I could find for hard and softwall hose.

Good luck on your project! Keep us posted with pics! Oh, and be sure to put those low restriction one way valves on your main fill and drain lines to keep the system primed. Ask Levi how important they are.

Hi MartinArcher

Thanks for responding, the effort you have put in to share your knowledge is superb and greatly appreciated.

1) I understand what you are saying about the bilge pump being part of the boats safety system and you do not want to compromise it. I think I'd be comftable with teeing into it with the addition of a one way valve in the bilge line. I will also convert the bilge pumps smaller hose diameter to 1" right at the hull so that I can still use 1" to empty the ballast bags.

2) Now that I know it can be done I will get the hose on using heat and a lubricant.

Thanks for the help, I will try and provide a photographic guide to help others in this endeavor.

I ordered my fly high V bags today yesterday. Although they are going to get hot, I got black bags which will match the color of my boat.

Regards

Ade

[martinarcher]

Hi MartinArcher

Thanks for responding, the effort you have put in to share your knowledge is superb and greatly appreciated.

1) I understand what you are saying about the bilge pump being part of the boats safety system and you do not want to compromise it. I think I'd be comftable with teeing into it with the addition of a one way valve in the bilge line. I will also convert the bilge pumps smaller hose diameter to 1" right at the hull so that I can still use 1" to empty the ballast bags.

2) Now that I know it can be done I will get the hose on using heat and a lubricant.

Thanks for the help, I will try and provide a photographic guide to help others in this endeavor.

I ordered my fly high V bags today yesterday. Although they are going to get hot, I got black bags which will match the color of my boat.

Regards

Ade

No problem! Glad to help.

I think increasing the bilge hose to 1" should help. It will allow you fast fill times and also increase to output ability of you have a high output bilge pump. Good plan. I hear ya on less holes in the boat.

If you do plan on shooting more holes in the boat or change the existing 3/4 bilge thru hull to a 1" check these guys out for a well priced 1" stainless thru hull fitting.

Good luck and have fun! Looking forward to seeing the pics!