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gary_tenison

How site has helped me w my boat maintenance

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gary_tenison

Guys, here is my story. I bought the boat new at the Detroit boat show in 2001. Its a 2001 Malibu Sunsetter LXI with a couple options; the fuel injected Monsoon 350 Indmar engine, additional sound proofing, wood dash trim and wheel , and the wedge. My oldest kid was 10 (I have 4) and it was a great time to get a boat for the family. Long story short, its been a fabulous thing for the family. Kids are all skiers and we spend much time together. Well, its been 8 years and the boat has 600 hrs on it.

Its never had anything mechanical go wrong with it....nothing. I simply changed the oil and occassionally the plugs. Once in a while I had a shop change the transmission oil, for which they usually robbed me for 75 bucks or so. Well, last fall I finally hurt the boat. Hit a big rock and screwed up the running equipment. 6k in damage including shaft, rudder, bearing strut, prop. So when I finally got it back, knowing that it was like new, I decided to get on all the things that were not perfect, and fix them. Then I would be happy my boat was like new again.

So I found this site and started to read. I changed my trans fluid myself for the first time. That sure was easy. Got 8$ handpump from store and it took 5 minutes to pump the 2 quarts out through the dipstick and refill. saved some bucks. Now will prob change every yr or two.

Seats were pulling apart at seams in some places. I had replaced one skin myself and it cost a fortune, so I read here about just getting them resewn. Found a local upolstery shop and had em done. Charged me like 30 bucks a seat. Looks like new now.

Bilge pump stopped working. Found out how to find and repair or replace it on this site. Got access to it thru the four simple screws holding the cover plate against the front of the engine compartment (near ski plyon) , pulled the top off to check for debris in bottom, found none, but little plastic impeller spinner was stuck fast. I turned it by hand and it snapped loose, now it worked again. But I know it needs replaced so I got online to buy a new one. Old one was Gaurdian 500, replaced by new 750 gal per hr unit (I forget...Attwood Shurline I think) for like 60 bucks. It is largest unit with same output size line. 3/4 inch I think.

Another thing that bugged me, my Ski pylon head wouldn't turn anymore. Used small paint putty knife to insert under edge of the plastic top cap, gently tapping w small hammer. Was easy to pop head off. Loosened center set screw, unscrewed bolt with socket wrench, rinsed the bearing unit in fuel, repacked with grease, cleaned all surfaces with gas to remove old hard grease, and put it back together (bolt down almost tight, then put set screw in to hold the bolt just off a hard seat, which allows the unit to spin nicely). 10 or 15 minute job.

Learned that WOT (wide open throttle) for engine top end was 5200 rpm for the 350 MPI monsoon. Bought new prop online and it runs 5100 RPM on my boat. Great hole shot, nice wake. Cutter 4 blade 13x12.5 stainless. (I am one of the few folks here running a 4 blade.) If you search the site you will find a thread with a compiled excel spreadsheet of all the props that people are running on their boats and what WOT and speed they developed with them, and this will help you get a great prop.

Changed the fuel filter. On my boat its in the back, under the deck hatch, behind the wall (against back seat area) just left of center on fuel line. Its an inline filter and simple to replace. The hard part is unscrewing all the screws holding the wall and floor liner in...use a power drill grasshopper.

After all the undercarriage damage from the rock was repaired, the Boat came back to me with the steering wheel off center. It was 90 degree off center when the boat ran straight. Boy that pissed me off. Dont they check that when they fix your boat? So I learned here to run straight on lake, stop boat with wheel in whatever position its in when boat is straight, grab 7/16 socket, go under the wheel (under the dash), and you see the teleflex steering rack (black rectangular thing). Its got 4 bolts clamping it to the steering wheel shaft. Take the four bolts out, pull the black rack away from the wheel ( unless you also take off the bracing strut that helps support the rack...the strut is bolted to one of the four bolts, you will have to sort of twist the rack up and away from the wheel shaft), so that the wheel is disengaged with the rack, and then re-center wheel in new spot, then twist rack back down so its seated on wheel shaft and then retightin the bolts. Simple.

Also, when it came back from the rock repairs, it pulled like a mother to the right. So I read here that the rudder could be adjusted via the rudder trim tab, or ground carefully if no tab, to adjust the amount of pull. If your a serious course skier, you might like the pull because it takes the slack out of the system and gives you a nice hard straight line. Well, I prefer a slight pull since I am not a serious skier and prefer a nice smooth easy steering wheel operation; a sunday cruise with beer in hand feel. Boat was pulling HARD to right, so I loosened the two set screws on the right side of the rudder, moved the tab out so that its tail end (the rear of the little hydrofoil) was just barely sticking out on the right side, then tightened it back down. That made a huge difference. Boat tracks nice but now has only a slight pull and I can drive with my fingers again, with my other hand gently holding a precious beer.

Also after the rock repair, when I took it out for a run, I lifted the back flooring to check shaft seal drip rate. It was running very wet with a fast drip rate. So I learned on site that a slow drip rate, maybe 3 or 4 a minute would be more usual, so I used a spanner wrench and a small pipe wrench to back off the thin lock nut, then tightened the big nut down about 90 degrees (quarter turn) and retightened the lock nut against it. this reduced the drip to a much lower rate. Caution, if you make it too tight and it fails to drip at all, it will heat up....and maybe ruin your packing seal. It needs to drip slowly.

Then, my stereo head unit was acting up...CD player ate a CD. I found on this site a recommendation for an APLINE 9886 head unit with full ipod functionality. I bought it online cheaply (couple hundred bucks). It has 3 sets of prepamp outs and a million features. Its awesome. I pulled out the old HU, striped the old wires, twisted and soldered and electrical taped the new pigtail in, and dropped the HU in place. WOW. Its awesome. It was easy but a little time consuming to solder all the connections. I am going to put in an amp next. A good spot for a subwoofer box is in front of the drivers feet. Quite a bit of room back there. For myself, I want nice sound but not a 12" woofer. My wife wouldnt let me play the stereo if I cranked it (lol...yeah I am married). So I got on Polk website and they have instructions for woofer boxes of all types. I may put in a 8" or maybe 10" woofer and small box in right upper corner, in front of drivers feet. Looks like will fit easily and no need to build a mounting wall.

I sanded and re-oiled the teak deck (I do this a couple times a year anyhow). It never gets too bad since I always trailer the boat and keep in in the garage. My trailer has a swing tongue.

So as if all that wasnt enough, last few nights I learned a few very very important things on this site by browsing...one, I can fix the damn gas tank!!! We all know the Malibu gas gauge is freakin useless!!! Well, I finally found the post on installing a new "teleflex fuel sender" on the tank. Damn I am excited. Also, I found the thread on the new fuel check valve to install to keep the fuel tank from overflowing and pumping fuel out the overflow port all over everything. I bought them both at 1am last night from "discount inboard marine". 75$ for the checkvalve and 29 for the fuel sender. Wow am I excited. No more listening to the gurgle from the overflow port to know when I am about to be deluged with GAS...no more useless gauge that is either full or empty and no indication in between. Damn I hated those two things. Why the hell didnt Malibu fix them?

I also bought a new exhaust blower and plan to replace all three of those things when I get behind the walls in back.

I also have a mystery leak....and I found the post on the HDS box leakage. I will be looking into that. I think it may have started when I hit that rock. So may need to bring the boat back to the shop (an hour and 20 drive each way!) to get it fixed. Meanwhile, my new bildge pump should take care of it!

Well, thats my story. I am probably forgeting a few things but anyhow, I love this site. Thank you all for answering my posts with your ideas...I still need to change distributor cap and a few other things...what do you suggest? You uys are geniuses...

THANKS

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68Slalom

I'd go with AC Delco if you can find it and autolite plugs :)

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Chia

i learned a lot from this site about inboards too. Still am learning stuff. It is why i became a supporting member, the $25 or $50 to support the site was a pittance compared to the money i saved plus it is a great community here.

Why did you go with a stainless prop? from what i have read if you, you know, hit a rock the damage will transfer right to the prop shaft or transmission instead of the nibral taking the hit.

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gary_tenison

Well, I like the looks of the smooth ss. Also, the stainless doesnt easily bend or get scraped up like the other metals. So unless you really whack it, which I did only one time in 8 yrs, its a great solution. And frankly, the way I hit, a soft prop wouldnt have mattered. I nailed it. Damn rock was prob 200 yds from shore and unmarked.

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gary_tenison

BTW, the new bilge pump is incorrected reported above. It is an Attwood Sahara 750 w 3/4" outlet. I bought online on Amazon for 68 bucks. There are cheaper ones but I liked the looks of it.

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Molarbu

This is one of the best posts on this site in a long time. I echo your thanks to these people and their willingness to share their experience.

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tvano
I also have a mystery leak....and I found the post on the HDS box leakage. I will be looking into that. I think it may have started when I hit that rock.

if you paid big $ for someone to repair the running gear, i'd sure consider hauling the boat back to them and instruct them to finish the job. sounds like they got their fair share of the deal ($$), you should too.

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robertiux

Hey,

Nice and instructional story, I guess many of us have gone through a similar journey, at least me in most of the topics you touched.

Thanks for sharing!

R

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ADDICTED2WAKE

I learned a lot, just from this post. Thanks!

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gary_tenison

Does anyone have a good solution for the following:

The side panels on either side of the walkway thru the windshield are loose. One time, while towing, one of the panels pulled loose. They have sheap plastic plugs that hold them to the sides. I want them to be tighter. Has anyone glued them? Or got new plugs? Anyone else have this problem?

This is a very annoying issue that I would like to get fixed....

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Darwin
i learned a lot from this site about inboards too. Still am learning stuff. It is why i became a supporting member, the $25 or $50 to support the site was a pittance compared to the money i saved plus it is a great community here.

Plus1.gif

Last summer was my first season as a boat owner. I was worried about everything-- from killing someone to destroying my boat. The information I learned on this site reduced my stress more than I can express in words! That alone was worth the membership. Plus I've gotten in on a couple of the group buys that easily paid for my membership in savings.

While I still consider myself a newbie, compared to the majority of other boaters on my lake, I operate like a pro. I owe it all to the Crew.

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gary_tenison

OK, today was a big day. I had ordered a new bidge pump (this from amazon), air exhaust blower, the air/fuel check valve, and the new teleflex fuel transmitter last week from discount inboard marine. So today was the day. Honestly it probably shouldn't have taken so long as it did...about 6 hours. I had to stop to go to the store a couple times.

Store trips for ring terminals (the transmitter has nuts on the terminal so you need a ring terminal on your wires once you cut them off the old unit), also for additional stainless screws for the back wall panels (some of the old ones were stripped out on the philippes heads), zip ties for ducting on the blower, zip ties with mounting screw holes...shrink tubing, silicon, hex head self tapping screws...

So interestingly, even though I actually thought my old fan was ok (because I could hear the motor run when I turned it on), when I pulled it out, I found the fan blades had fallen off! So I suggest everyone can properly check the fan by checking to see if its blowing air out one of the rear exhaust ports (mine blows out the drivers side. The blower was very easy to replace. Cut the old zip ties, pulled off the 3" ducting, popped the new one on and zipped tied the ducting, screwed the fan on and wired it up.

It was pretty time consuming to get the transmitter set up well. But in the end it came out nice. Be very careful with the float bulb. THat thing is very delicate. I was carefully trying to pry the little metal tabs off the end of the float arm to get the bulb off and I gouged a divit into it. It didnt really look like I had holed it so I stuck some silicon in the divit and used it. The description in the technical DIY section is pretty good. It is actually tough to cut the float arm metal. Man that thing is strong. I had some wire snippers but they werent worth as damn. Eventually I got it done. Once I wired it up to the boat I spent some time working it and watching the gas gauge to try to fine tune it. I think its a great solution.

The fuel check valve was really easy. It took me only 2 or three minutes. I replaced the top of the check valve with the 90 deree elbow, grabbed a sharp knife and sawed the hose off near the tank, rammed the check valve in, tightened the clamp, sawed off the hose near the top, rammed it in and clamped it. Wow that was easy.

The bilge pump was a bit tricky. Access for tools is pretty constrained. I pulled the old 500gph attwood gaurdian out, unscrewed it from the floor, cut off the wires. Then tried to screw the new base down with a self tapping phillips. Sorry no go...nother trip to store, bought hex head self tapping screws, drilled 1/8 pilot hole and screwed it down easy with socket wrench. THen I realized the wiring needed to be water proof. Puzzled over that a while and then decided the following. Stripped wires, slipped heat shrink tube over one side, wound them, together, soldered them, coated the wire and about 1" on either side with silicon, slipped the shrink tube over the junction, used my fingers to stuff more silicon into the open ends, then used a match, starting in the middle, to shrink the tubing down. Honestly it came out nice. I think it will hold well.

So now I just have to rub out the boat and wax it. Fun day...

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gatty
OK, today was a big day. I had ordered a new bidge pump (this from amazon), air exhaust blower, the air/fuel check valve, and the new teleflex fuel transmitter last week from discount inboard marine. So today was the day. Honestly it probably shouldn't have taken so long as it did...about 6 hours. I had to stop to go to the store a couple times.

Store trips for ring terminals (the transmitter has nuts on the terminal so you need a ring terminal on your wires once you cut them off the old unit), also for additional stainless screws for the back wall panels (some of the old ones were stripped out on the philippes heads), zip ties for ducting on the blower, zip ties with mounting screw holes...shrink tubing, silicon, hex head self tapping screws...

So interestingly, even though I actually thought my old fan was ok (because I could hear the motor run when I turned it on), when I pulled it out, I found the fan blades had fallen off! So I suggest everyone can properly check the fan by checking to see if its blowing air out one of the rear exhaust ports (mine blows out the drivers side. The blower was very easy to replace. Cut the old zip ties, pulled off the 3" ducting, popped the new one on and zipped tied the ducting, screwed the fan on and wired it up.

It was pretty time consuming to get the transmitter set up well. But in the end it came out nice. Be very careful with the float bulb. THat thing is very delicate. I was carefully trying to pry the little metal tabs off the end of the float arm to get the bulb off and I gouged a divit into it. It didnt really look like I had holed it so I stuck some silicon in the divit and used it. The description in the technical DIY section is pretty good. It is actually tough to cut the float arm metal. Man that thing is strong. I had some wire snippers but they werent worth as damn. Eventually I got it done. Once I wired it up to the boat I spent some time working it and watching the gas gauge to try to fine tune it. I think its a great solution.

The fuel check valve was really easy. It took me only 2 or three minutes. I replaced the top of the check valve with the 90 deree elbow, grabbed a sharp knife and sawed the hose off near the tank, rammed the check valve in, tightened the clamp, sawed off the hose near the top, rammed it in and clamped it. Wow that was easy.

The bilge pump was a bit tricky. Access for tools is pretty constrained. I pulled the old 500gph attwood gaurdian out, unscrewed it from the floor, cut off the wires. Then tried to screw the new base down with a self tapping phillips. Sorry no go...nother trip to store, bought hex head self tapping screws, drilled 1/8 pilot hole and screwed it down easy with socket wrench. THen I realized the wiring needed to be water proof. Puzzled over that a while and then decided the following. Stripped wires, slipped heat shrink tube over one side, wound them, together, soldered them, coated the wire and about 1" on either side with silicon, slipped the shrink tube over the junction, used my fingers to stuff more silicon into the open ends, then used a match, starting in the middle, to shrink the tubing down. Honestly it came out nice. I think it will hold well.

So now I just have to rub out the boat and wax it. Fun day...

There is a heatshrink out called "Raychem" that is lined with epoxy resin type substance. Once heated the resin melts and fills all air gaps making it 100% water tight. Just make sure if you use it you heat from the center of the heatshrink to one end, then from center to other end to make sure no air pocket is formed in center.

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gary_tenison

The last few weekends have been nice here in MI and I got the boat out with all my repairs done. It is awesome to have the boat like new again. Now I just need to polish the top rail on the windshield as it is all chipped up.

However, my new bilge pump got quite a workout. The boat is leaking like a sieve. Looks like an HDS leak. I took it into the shop and the guy said it sounded like it. The water gets under the box liner and runs all under the boat and in stringers and everything and can even come up around the liner where the main drain plug is in the engine compartment. Thats where I suspected it was coming up into the boat so that made sense to me. Its being worked on now. Hopefully, I will have it back soon.

I have the fever to make the boat perfect again.

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gary_tenison

Oh, and btw, I did a ton of reading on line last night and I think I have a couple other areas to work on...

1. Gauges have a fogging problem. Never occured to me that there might be a fix. Sounds like you can drill a 1/8" dia hole in the back of the gauge to vent it? Location supposedly at 5 oclock position. I wasnt ablt to find a good tech description how to do this though. And I am not clear if 5 oclock viewed from the front or the back side? Can someone help? Direct me to a good tech post?

2. A. Dash gauges behave oddly sometimes and I need to turn off the boat and restart to get the gauges reset. Sounds like two areas for checking this out. One, is to run a 8 ga ground wire to the grounding block near the dash. Apparently that wire from stock is too small and so have some ground issues. Where is the ground block though? I dont know where it is...

B. The canon plug, or main engine plug located on the back of the engine sometimes needs to be unplugged, cleaned, maybe spread the prongs a bit, and reinserted tightly. I will do this this weekend.

Thanks all,

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wienrdog

The ground block/bar is against the hull just forward of where the dash & throttle panel meet - a few inches down from the gunnel.

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TreasureIslandBoy
Guys, here is my story. I bought the boat new at the Detroit boat show in 2001. Its a 2001 Malibu Sunsetter LXI with a couple options; the fuel injected Monsoon 350 Indmar engine, additional sound proofing, wood dash trim and wheel , and the wedge. My oldest kid was 10 (I have 4) and it was a great time to get a boat for the family. Long story short, its been a fabulous thing for the family. Kids are all skiers and we spend much time together. Well, its been 8 years and the boat has 600 hrs on it.

Its never had anything mechanical go wrong with it....nothing. I simply changed the oil and occassionally the plugs. Once in a while I had a shop change the transmission oil, for which they usually robbed me for 75 bucks or so. Well, last fall I finally hurt the boat. Hit a big rock and screwed up the running equipment. 6k in damage including shaft, rudder, bearing strut, prop. So when I finally got it back, knowing that it was like new, I decided to get on all the things that were not perfect, and fix them. Then I would be happy my boat was like new again.

So I found this site and started to read. I changed my trans fluid myself for the first time. That sure was easy. Got 8$ handpump from store and it took 5 minutes to pump the 2 quarts out through the dipstick and refill. saved some bucks. Now will prob change every yr or two.

Seats were pulling apart at seams in some places. I had replaced one skin myself and it cost a fortune, so I read here about just getting them resewn. Found a local upolstery shop and had em done. Charged me like 30 bucks a seat. Looks like new now.

Bilge pump stopped working. Found out how to find and repair or replace it on this site. Got access to it thru the four simple screws holding the cover plate against the front of the engine compartment (near ski plyon) , pulled the top off to check for debris in bottom, found none, but little plastic impeller spinner was stuck fast. I turned it by hand and it snapped loose, now it worked again. But I know it needs replaced so I got online to buy a new one. Old one was Gaurdian 500, replaced by new 750 gal per hr unit (I forget...Attwood Shurline I think) for like 60 bucks. It is largest unit with same output size line. 3/4 inch I think.

Another thing that bugged me, my Ski pylon head wouldn't turn anymore. Used small paint putty knife to insert under edge of the plastic top cap, gently tapping w small hammer. Was easy to pop head off. Loosened center set screw, unscrewed bolt with socket wrench, rinsed the bearing unit in fuel, repacked with grease, cleaned all surfaces with gas to remove old hard grease, and put it back together (bolt down almost tight, then put set screw in to hold the bolt just off a hard seat, which allows the unit to spin nicely). 10 or 15 minute job.

Learned that WOT (wide open throttle) for engine top end was 5200 rpm for the 350 MPI monsoon. Bought new prop online and it runs 5100 RPM on my boat. Great hole shot, nice wake. Cutter 4 blade 13x12.5 stainless. (I am one of the few folks here running a 4 blade.) If you search the site you will find a thread with a compiled excel spreadsheet of all the props that people are running on their boats and what WOT and speed they developed with them, and this will help you get a great prop.

Changed the fuel filter. On my boat its in the back, under the deck hatch, behind the wall (against back seat area) just left of center on fuel line. Its an inline filter and simple to replace. The hard part is unscrewing all the screws holding the wall and floor liner in...use a power drill grasshopper.

After all the undercarriage damage from the rock was repaired, the Boat came back to me with the steering wheel off center. It was 90 degree off center when the boat ran straight. Boy that pissed me off. Dont they check that when they fix your boat? So I learned here to run straight on lake, stop boat with wheel in whatever position its in when boat is straight, grab 7/16 socket, go under the wheel (under the dash), and you see the teleflex steering rack (black rectangular thing). Its got 4 bolts clamping it to the steering wheel shaft. Take the four bolts out, pull the black rack away from the wheel ( unless you also take off the bracing strut that helps support the rack...the strut is bolted to one of the four bolts, you will have to sort of twist the rack up and away from the wheel shaft), so that the wheel is disengaged with the rack, and then re-center wheel in new spot, then twist rack back down so its seated on wheel shaft and then retightin the bolts. Simple.

Also, when it came back from the rock repairs, it pulled like a mother to the right. So I read here that the rudder could be adjusted via the rudder trim tab, or ground carefully if no tab, to adjust the amount of pull. If your a serious course skier, you might like the pull because it takes the slack out of the system and gives you a nice hard straight line. Well, I prefer a slight pull since I am not a serious skier and prefer a nice smooth easy steering wheel operation; a sunday cruise with beer in hand feel. Boat was pulling HARD to right, so I loosened the two set screws on the right side of the rudder, moved the tab out so that its tail end (the rear of the little hydrofoil) was just barely sticking out on the right side, then tightened it back down. That made a huge difference. Boat tracks nice but now has only a slight pull and I can drive with my fingers again, with my other hand gently holding a precious beer.

Also after the rock repair, when I took it out for a run, I lifted the back flooring to check shaft seal drip rate. It was running very wet with a fast drip rate. So I learned on site that a slow drip rate, maybe 3 or 4 a minute would be more usual, so I used a spanner wrench and a small pipe wrench to back off the thin lock nut, then tightened the big nut down about 90 degrees (quarter turn) and retightened the lock nut against it. this reduced the drip to a much lower rate. Caution, if you make it too tight and it fails to drip at all, it will heat up....and maybe ruin your packing seal. It needs to drip slowly.

Then, my stereo head unit was acting up...CD player ate a CD. I found on this site a recommendation for an APLINE 9886 head unit with full ipod functionality. I bought it online cheaply (couple hundred bucks). It has 3 sets of prepamp outs and a million features. Its awesome. I pulled out the old HU, striped the old wires, twisted and soldered and electrical taped the new pigtail in, and dropped the HU in place. WOW. Its awesome. It was easy but a little time consuming to solder all the connections. I am going to put in an amp next. A good spot for a subwoofer box is in front of the drivers feet. Quite a bit of room back there. For myself, I want nice sound but not a 12" woofer. My wife wouldnt let me play the stereo if I cranked it (lol...yeah I am married). So I got on Polk website and they have instructions for woofer boxes of all types. I may put in a 8" or maybe 10" woofer and small box in right upper corner, in front of drivers feet. Looks like will fit easily and no need to build a mounting wall.

I sanded and re-oiled the teak deck (I do this a couple times a year anyhow). It never gets too bad since I always trailer the boat and keep in in the garage. My trailer has a swing tongue.

So as if all that wasnt enough, last few nights I learned a few very very important things on this site by browsing...one, I can fix the damn gas tank!!! We all know the Malibu gas gauge is freakin useless!!! Well, I finally found the post on installing a new "teleflex fuel sender" on the tank. Damn I am excited. Also, I found the thread on the new fuel check valve to install to keep the fuel tank from overflowing and pumping fuel out the overflow port all over everything. I bought them both at 1am last night from "discount inboard marine". 75$ for the checkvalve and 29 for the fuel sender. Wow am I excited. No more listening to the gurgle from the overflow port to know when I am about to be deluged with GAS...no more useless gauge that is either full or empty and no indication in between. Damn I hated those two things. Why the hell didnt Malibu fix them?

I also bought a new exhaust blower and plan to replace all three of those things when I get behind the walls in back.

I also have a mystery leak....and I found the post on the HDS box leakage. I will be looking into that. I think it may have started when I hit that rock. So may need to bring the boat back to the shop (an hour and 20 drive each way!) to get it fixed. Meanwhile, my new bildge pump should take care of it!

Well, thats my story. I am probably forgeting a few things but anyhow, I love this site. Thank you all for answering my posts with your ideas...I still need to change distributor cap and a few other things...what do you suggest? You uys are geniuses...

THANKS

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JohnDoe
Well, I like the looks of the smooth ss. Also, the stainless doesnt easily bend or get scraped up like the other metals. So unless you really whack it, which I did only one time in 8 yrs, its a great solution. And frankly, the way I hit, a soft prop wouldnt have mattered. I nailed it. Damn rock was prob 200 yds from shore and unmarked.

Good reasons, but be careful. Blades have bene known to come off and get thrown through the hull. My buddy lost an entire blade (hit nothing), but fortunately it went "down" and not through the hull.

Good post. I learned some too Thumbup.gif

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gary_tenison

Thanks for the comments guys. I am going to pick up the boat this afternoon. They repaired the HDS leak - plan to polish the windshield top edge this weekend. Got a dremmel tool.

Anybody have the facts on how to drill the back of the gauges to eliminate the fogging issue?

Anybody have a good method to more firmly anchor the side panels of the walkthrough area? They are loose and one popped off during trailering. Now I always keep the wind blocker installed during trailering. That stopped that problem. But I want to anchor them down better. Tried running a little screw into it but not much to grab. May need new little plastic plug things. Have thought about some adhesive...but am luke warm on the idea. I want to be able to get them off if I need too...

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gary_tenison

ok. today i stripped the paint off the windshield top edge. It was easy but time consuming. Here's the important part man...I read other posts about buying fine steel wool and fine sand paper and using a dremmel tool...dudes...thats BS.

I painted on some stripper, let sit 10 minutes, used a plastic scrapper to scrape off the gue and paint which had bubbled up nicely...re-applied gue, wiped off paint. Took three or four applications to finally get all the spots off. Then put some gue on a rag and wiped the edge down nicely. All paint off. The top edge was so smooth...like chrome. Now I rubbed wax on and rubbed it off...again by hand. Its gorgeous...not a mark on it...its shiney chrome. AMazing. It looks awesome...probably took about 2 or 3 hours...not sure how long I worked it. Damn it looks great.

One thing I did wrong though. I should have masked off more carefully along top edge. I got some gue just over the lip on the bow side of the top edge. There is a little seam there underneath...like a lip. I inadvertantly stripped some paint off there...tomorrow, I will use q-tips to apply a thin gue line under the edge and strip that too...then, it will be perfect. I will post some pics and also tell you the name of the stripper...I forget the name...anyhow, I am excited as hell.

Once again, you guys gave me great ideas. Man, I have fixed nearly every little thing that wasn't perfect on the boat. And the HDS box is totally dry and tight now. Boat has never been so dry since I bought it. I didn't pick up a drop in several hours on the lake today. I am so pumped.

Edited by gary_tenison

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gary_tenison

Its "KS-15 Stripper". Klean Strip. Comes in a retangular gold metal quart can at Home Depot. Works awesome. Paint it on, wipe it off in 5 min. Watch it close though as it is very very fast working. I actually had more success NOT masking off, since I had two issues with Masking. One, the tape in some cases pulled off the powdercoat under it when I removed it! And two, the tape, once wet w KS15, would bleed through underneath and begin to bubble paint. I caught that fast and stopped using masking tape. A brush to apply the stripper and a very small brush for the underlip area and i got it done fast. No steel wool. No sand paper. No bristles of any kind...although looking back, a toothbrush might have been helpful on the lip area. It LOOKS LIKE POLISHED SS!

I think I want to order the SS cup holders now since I think it would show off so nice against the window trim.

I did take some nice pics but cant firgure out how to post? maybe I need to be a paying member? I will email pics if anyone wants them.

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gary_tenison

Ok...working on two more projects...I just cleaned and polished the rub rail. The rub rail had been getting very ratty looking. Scraped, rough, marked up...wouldnt polish etc...

Read a great post that suggested using steel wool. So I bought "00" wool and "0000" wool. Scrubbed the rail down with 00 and finished with 0000. Wow. It was easy and the rail looks like new again. I put some polish on and it loooks great!

Then, I wanted to replace the frayed gunnel side wall netting (storage netting). I wanted to fix it somehow but in the end broke down and picked up a set from the dealer. It had been on the shelf awhile and the got me pretty good for it...48 bucks per net! But I will be happy when its installed. Problem is that I tried to pull the side panel off so I could get it in good and clean, but the bolts in the side panel are turning with the nuts! I posted that problem and someone offered a bright solution which I am going to try. He said he thought i might be able to twist two nuts against each other at the end of the bolt so tightly that I could hold one of the nuts and back off the mount nut. Hmmmm...Its worth a shot. Anyhow...sounded possible.

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gary_tenison

ok. This weekend I finished off my projects. First, the side storage netting. Wow, that was a pain. I couldnt get the panels off because many of the bolts turned when I tried to back the nuts off. I tried putting a hex head cap screw on the bare end of the bolt to allow me to back off the mount nut. That did work, but then the cap screw was set tight and I couldn't get IT off, so had to tighten back down the mount nut to get cap off etc. Holy crap. What a headache.

In the end I mounted the netting while leaving the wall in place and it came out great. Here's how...

I used #208 eye screws. Its a eye screw with about same thickness as many of the screws used to mount other stuff into the black plastic material that makes up the walls internal to the boat. Anyhow, I mounted the top of the netting using the existing rubber band and hook on the back end, and the existing mount screw on the front end. Then drilled pilot holes with a small drill bit right through the carpeted wall (from inside the boat), then reached into the side wall and put the eyebolt right through the netting and screwed it in. started by hand and and then used a small screwdriver to insert the tip into the eye and turn it until tight at the base of the wall near the floor. The "eye" is larger then the netting holes so the net will not come off the eye. It worked great! It came to me the other night...I had been really upset that I couldnt find a good way to get the nets mounted. I put 4 in each net, one each at front and rear of net, and two equidistant along the middle of the net. I pulled it pretty tight and it looks like factory.

I also polished the dash board paint and installed new ss cupholders from Bakesonline into all locations. Wow it looks great.

Then I used vinegar to remove the corrosion from my wedge assembly.BTW, vinegar was doing a good job of removing my powdercoating on the wedge. I tried to use the same stripper i used on the top of the windshield and lmao it did NOTHING. But when i used vinegar, it was coming off pretty easily. So I may polish the wedge rather than recoat it.

Anyhow, my first camping trip is this friday, for memorial day weekend. The boat looks like freakin new and I feel great. Thanks for all the ideas folks...

I will post on this string again if and when I do something cool for the boat and think someone may benefit by reading my string...which has got listed every single thing I did to the boat...

My last couple questions on hand...that so far no one has answered...

1. How to secure the two sidewall panels in the walk thru area? They are loose. The stupid little pastic plug things dont work to hold it tight.Anyone have a good fix?

2. Where do i drill my gauges to deal with the condensation issue? Its not so bad with my gauges but I would still do it...I need details to feel safe doing it...

-Gary

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gary_tenison

Anyone can answer my last questions above? Looking to do my spring boat projects and I never got any responses on these last couple issues...Thanks

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jk13

Anyone can answer my last questions above? Looking to do my spring boat projects and I never got any responses on these last couple issues...Thanks

Not familiar with the boat or the guage issue, but if the plastic plugs you are referring to are what we call "Christmas tree fasteners" AND they stick through to the backside of the supporting panel, you can use SS washers with the correct inside diameter on the backs of them for more grip. Almost like a nut on a bolt.

Otherwise, like you said previously, you can replace them. If they go into fiberglass only, the holes will most certainly be larger than they started and you may need to go bigger with the fasteners.

Edit: If the fasteners don't stick all he way through the panel, you could take fender washers and drill small holes in the outside, place the large center hole over the existing holes in the support panel, and use flat head screws to hold them in place. You may have to grind one or more sides flat so they don't stick out past the trim panel if they are close to the edge.

Edited by jk13

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