Cracked Block...looking for options in NC

[99response]

Boat would blow a head gasket or warp the heads before it cracked a block right?

[woodword]

Did you see this from pilotscrappy. It's around page 5 of the for sale section. It's been several months so it's unlikely that the engines are still available. It's worth a look.

Wood...

We have 2 engines+transmissions that came out of 2 brand new boats in shipment to a dealer. The truck transporting these boats caught fire and the boats were salvaged

both are 2006 motors one is a lcr 320 then other i think is a monsoon 340 but im not 100% sure

The monsoon is in perfect condition the other had the fuel injection damaged so we removed all of it down the the manifold. You can see in the pics

Both engines are perfectly fine no condesation in the oil or anything. Motors are in our shop in Oregon. We can ship. I dont know exactly what these things are worth, so I am open to offers.

-Josh

[email protected]

I also have a 2 power wedge assemblys make offer ill get pics later on those

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This post has been edited by pilotscrappy: Oct 9 2007, 05:25 PM

[bigD]

With a new long block engine from Indmar $8,500 makes sense tome. Don't even compare to automotive pricing, completly completely different engine not built strong enough to run in a boat.

Aren't Indmar engines built with OEM GM pistons, rings, crank, bearings, cam/springs ,valves etc..... If they are theres is no way they are better then race quality aftermarket parts at a much better price. Thats why people that want a stronger engine that will take alot of abuse such as racing or quality off shore boats use aftermarket equipment.

[areamike]

Talk to Larry Engelbert from Indmar. You may be able to get the block direct from him. You can contact him from their website.

According to him they sell re-manufactured base engines for 6150.00. That was last year.

Also, if you are "handy" enough. Save some labor cost and pull the engine and put it back in yourself. You and a couple guys should be able to handle it with the right equipment...we used an old tractor and some "jimmy rigged" I-beam. It was actually easier than I thought it would be. Just make sure to take real good pictures of all around the motor before tearing it down and disconnecting everything.

My buddy that helped me owns a Lawnmower shop...ironic.

[areamike]

Aren't Indmar engines built with OEM GM pistons, rings, crank, bearings, cam/springs ,valves etc..... If they are theres is no way they are better then race quality aftermarket parts at a much better price. Thats why people that want a stronger engine that will take alot of abuse such as racing or quality off shore boats use aftermarket equipment.

Yes, unless they are the hammerheads. They put suped up cam, and Fast burn heads in the HH. Monsoon is stock. They do not touch the lower end throughout all models.

[Behindtheboat]

Aren't Indmar engines built with OEM GM pistons, rings, crank, bearings, cam/springs ,valves etc..... If they are theres is no way they are better then race quality aftermarket parts at a much better price. Thats why people that want a stronger engine that will take alot of abuse such as racing or quality off shore boats use aftermarket equipment.

Yes, unless they are the hammerheads. They put suped up cam, and Fast burn heads in the HH. Monsoon is stock. They do not touch the lower end throughout all models.

So, if I wanted to do this myself.....

People have made reference to Summit Racing and Jeg's....Do I just get the numbers off my block and call these folks to find out what engine/block would fit in my boat and accept all of the marine stuff?

How tough is the realignment (assuming this is aligning the engine with the V-Drive).

I live next door to a body shop guy that I am sure could recommend a good engine guy if I felt I was getting in over my head.

Thanks again to everyone who has replied here so far.

Oh, I spoke with my insurnance company and as long as it is determined not to be freeze damage they would cover it (minus my deductible of course). The problem is I fully expect the shop to say it is freeze damage even though I pumped the engine full of antifreeze until it was coming out of the exhaust ports. Anyhow, still looking at options to get me back in the water this summer!

Thanks,

Dan

[68Slalom]

Aren't Indmar engines built with OEM GM pistons, rings, crank, bearings, cam/springs ,valves etc..... If they are theres is no way they are better then race quality aftermarket parts at a much better price. Thats why people that want a stronger engine that will take alot of abuse such as racing or quality off shore boats use aftermarket equipment.

Yes, unless they are the hammerheads. They put suped up cam, and Fast burn heads in the HH. Monsoon is stock. They do not touch the lower end throughout all models.

So, if I wanted to do this myself.....

People have made reference to Summit Racing and Jeg's....Do I just get the numbers off my block and call these folks to find out what engine/block would fit in my boat and accept all of the marine stuff?

How tough is the realignment (assuming this is aligning the engine with the V-Drive).

I live next door to a body shop guy that I am sure could recommend a good engine guy if I felt I was getting in over my head.

Thanks again to everyone who has replied here so far.

Oh, I spoke with my insurnance company and as long as it is determined not to be freeze damage they would cover it (minus my deductible of course). The problem is I fully expect the shop to say it is freeze damage even though I pumped the engine full of antifreeze until it was coming out of the exhaust ports. Anyhow, still looking at options to get me back in the water this summer!

Thanks,

Dan

I would find a shop that can determine it isn't freeze damage and make sure they know they will get the job If you really filled it with antifreeze there is no way that could have happened.

[Bobby Light]

For those prices I'd look at something like this, I've heard good things about these guys. You don't get more complete than this.

http://www.enginefactory.com/marine.htm

[bigD]

Aren't Indmar engines built with OEM GM pistons, rings, crank, bearings, cam/springs ,valves etc..... If they are theres is no way they are better then race quality aftermarket parts at a much better price. Thats why people that want a stronger engine that will take alot of abuse such as racing or quality off shore boats use aftermarket equipment.

Yes, unless they are the hammerheads. They put suped up cam, and Fast burn heads in the HH. Monsoon is stock. They do not touch the lower end throughout all models.

Your correct, OEM fast burn heads and a most likely a GM stage 1 or 2 cam. There very good and very expensive for what you get, AFR or Trick Flow heads have more power potential and aftermarket cams have many more options for power curves better valves and springs and can cost less. I just thought the OP wanted to save some cash and also get good quality.

I apologize if I seem argumentative, thats not my intention.

[areamike]

Funny..My motor blew and my insurance would not cover..Probably why I switched. bastards

Anyway...

My experience is from a Direct Drive standpoint. I'm guessing removing and then re-inserting a motor in V-Drive is a little more difficult. Hell, it's more difficult just to change the impeller in a V-Drive.

Regardless. From my DD experience, re-aligning was a matter of putting motor back into boat onto motor mounts. lining up all bolts, tightening down and then re-attach shaft to trainy...I had to do no re-aligning.

I would contact Indmar prior to doing anything. Larry would be a HUGE benefit to you where advice is needed.

The scariest part for me was when my buddy lifted the motor out and over the gunnel..I thought, if that SOB falls...we're done. I'm pushing my boat into the lake and letting it sink. THEN it will be covered.

Was that a FICUS tree that fell on your house?

[99response]

Funny..My motor blew and my insurance would not cover..Probably why I switched. bastards

Anyway...

My experience is from a Direct Drive standpoint. I'm guessing removing and then re-inserting a motor in V-Drive is a little more difficult. Hell, it's more difficult just to change the impeller in a V-Drive.

Regardless. From my DD experience, re-aligning was a matter of putting motor back into boat onto motor mounts. lining up all bolts, tightening down and then re-attach shaft to trainy...I had to do no re-aligning.

I would contact Indmar prior to doing anything. Larry would be a HUGE benefit to you where advice is needed.

The scariest part for me was when my buddy lifted the motor out and over the gunnel..I thought, if that SOB falls...we're done. I'm pushing my boat into the lake and letting it sink. THEN it will be covered.

Was that a FICUS tree that fell on your house?

Errrr, you didn't check the aligment or you got lucky and it aligned to .003"?

V-drives are a SOB to align unless you've done a bunch. i had to do 3 or so last year, eventually you get pretty good at it, but the 2 or 3 DD's that I did were cake in comparision.

[vette-ski]

I see a lot of big dollar signs floating around in the posts here. This can be done for much less. There's no doubt that "new from Indmar" is the best way to go (unless you want aftermarket). But I guess it depends on what it's worth to you and your boat. I'd have to get the receipt at home to remember the name of the company, but I bought a marine long block, shipped to my house and unloaded into my garage for around $1600. I found them on ebay, but didn't buy through ebay. Go to ebay and do a search on "vortec marine" and you'll find Michigan Motors. They have several 5.7 long blocks in the low $2k range. Install your intake and oil pan, swap valve covers, drop in your distributor, and you are ready to go. Will it be as good as new from Indmar, maybe not. But it will be close, and is the difference worth $4k? Comes to you and your boat I guess. I'd put more weight on a new motor if your boat was only a couple years old. But for a '98, I don't know that I would.

And as far as the install, half the battle is getting the rear seats and covers out. You'll have to remove the pylon brace too. But once you get all of that out, it will be the easiest motor swap you'll ever do. I marked all the mounts before taking it apart and put it back together the same way for alignment. Haven't had any problems in 4 years. You really don't need to loosen the trans mounts at all, and I think that is more critical for the v-drive alignment than the motor mounts. If you leave the trans and v-drive locked in place, I don't really think alignment is a big issue. A typical rental hoist may not quite get the motor over the transom. Let the air out of your trailer tires and it will just squeak over.

I don't think you can crack the block from overheat unless you got it smoking hot and then instantly filled it with cold lake water. It's possible I guess. But internal and external cracks are typical of a freeze. Pull your intake manifold and see if you have a split about halfway up above the lifters....pretty common crack for a freeze. If you did have a freeze, you should probably have your exhaust manifolds pressure tested too. You said you did drain the water all out first, right? If you are using the pink antifreeze, you have to run it straight and any dilution at all can cause problems.

[99response]

You're right the core longblock should not be the real high ticket item here.

The cost is in the labor to switch over.

I bought a new marine longblock last year for $2500, which came with oil pan, valve covers, timing chain cover, etc. You could get it for $2k minus the tin.

Sounds like the shop quoted for a reman longblock, probably around $2.5k in parts and $3k in labor to switch it around, and then a bobtail (dunno why) for $8500 which is more like $7k parts and $1.5k labor. I would guess a new longblock would be around $500 more than the reman, so let say $6k.

The price difference on a new versus remanufactured longblock isn't huge, plus you can say "new" when you go to sell the boat...maybe not an issue in this case.

-Chris

[Sunsetter95]

, upped the comp to 7.5:1,

Good luck!

Thats actually a REAL low ratio even with an RV/truck cam which can't run at high ratios since they don't bleed off compression like larger lift and longer duration and overlap cams due. I think a bone stock Chevy would not have less than an 8.5:1. and run good on the cheap stuff. But hey, if it runs good what the heck.

Back on topic, I would order a long block from Summit Racing or Jeg's like others said and bolt on all your marine stuff, you'll get a nice seasoned block and probably a little more power depending on how much you spend. Also your local GOOD machine shop (not Kregans or the like)most likely will have long blocks available with exchange.

You know you are correct. After I wrote that I started thinking about it and haven't gotten back to correcting it. Stock is I believe 8.5:1 as you said. I know they only went up 1 on the comp ratio so I could avoid using higher octane fuel, and yes, it runs great!

I also would agree with Jeg's or Summit for replacement.

[areamike]

Funny..My motor blew and my insurance would not cover..Probably why I switched. bastards

Anyway...

My experience is from a Direct Drive standpoint. I'm guessing removing and then re-inserting a motor in V-Drive is a little more difficult. Hell, it's more difficult just to change the impeller in a V-Drive.

Regardless. From my DD experience, re-aligning was a matter of putting motor back into boat onto motor mounts. lining up all bolts, tightening down and then re-attach shaft to trainy...I had to do no re-aligning.

I would contact Indmar prior to doing anything. Larry would be a HUGE benefit to you where advice is needed.

The scariest part for me was when my buddy lifted the motor out and over the gunnel..I thought, if that SOB falls...we're done. I'm pushing my boat into the lake and letting it sink. THEN it will be covered.

Was that a FICUS tree that fell on your house?

Errrr, you didn't check the aligment or you got lucky and it aligned to .003"?

V-drives are a SOB to align unless you've done a bunch. i had to do 3 or so last year, eventually you get pretty good at it, but the 2 or 3 DD's that I did were cake in comparision.

I think we got REAL lucky. Everything just lined up perfectly. Maybe it was fate?

EDIT

I need to add. I think "improper winterazation" could be a culprit. I had a bottle of RV Antifreeze in my shed over the winter this last year and it turned very slushy and thick. Even though a person runs Antifreeze thru the motor, isn't it advised to STILL drain the block and exhaust manifolds?

Edited May 20, 2008 by areamike

[99response]

You should drain the block, manifolds and hoses THEN run antifreeze through if you desire. But the OP said he dropped a light in the boat for the chilly days in NC.

[pennery]

I think I would have a hard time believing that it was a frozen block given the 3-4 days of freezing temps.. And you threw a light into warm it up on the colder days... I could be mistaken here but the Antifreeze/water combo (If it was actually a diluted solution) in the block would have to freeze solid for it to crack the block and the chances of that in your climate have to be quite rare...

[ShowSki]

Dan,

Same thing happened to my 2002 Response LX as yours. I called Indmar first as others mentioned. They offered really good advice. Indmar will only sell replacement motors through a dealer that carries Indmar. Your local Malibu dealer could get you a new motor. Mine was quoting at $7500 on the high side for a new motor. They said it would be about $5500 for a Jasper remanufactured motor.

As a previous poster suggested check out www.michiganmotorz.com. Got my reman motor from them in less than 1 week. Cost $2199 plus about $85 shipping. One year warranty on the remanufactured motor. Saved money by having it shipped to a friends warehouse that had a fork truck to unload. Otherwise they ship it in a truck with a lift on back which costs a little more.

Had a good friend who works at a GM dealership help put it in. Took about 10 hours of labor to pull the junk motor and put the new one in. Need an engine hoist to take out and put new in. We gained about 1/2 mph over the original motor. Michigan Motorz will install for you and they offer new motors if you'd rather go that route. Another friend well versed in motors said that a reman will break within the first year or it will last as long as a new one. Hence the warranty.

This is the one I ordered: http://www.michiganmotorz.com/5.7L+Vortec+...(1996-2007)

Another company you could consider is http://www.ebasicpower.com/ They are in Harkers Island, NC. They offer a 2-year warranty on a reman motor.

Good luck... pm me if you need anything further. Just think, if you order a new motor tomorrow you could be boating by June 1.

Edited May 22, 2008 by ShowSki

[Behindtheboat]

Dan,

Same thing happened to my 2002 Response LX as yours. I called Indmar first as others mentioned. They offered really good advice. Indmar will only sell replacement motors through a dealer that carries Indmar. Your local Malibu dealer could get you a new motor. Mine was quoting at $7500 on the high side for a new motor. They said it would be about $5500 for a Jasper remanufactured motor.

As a previous poster suggested check out www.michiganmotorz.com. Got my reman motor from them in less than 1 week. Cost $2199 plus about $85 shipping. One year warranty on the remanufactured motor. Saved money by having it shipped to a friends warehouse that had a fork truck to unload. Otherwise they ship it in a truck with a lift on back which costs a little more.

Had a good friend who works at a GM dealership help put it in. Took about 10 hours of labor to pull the junk motor and put the new one in. Need an engine hoist to take out and put new in. We gained about 1/2 mph over the original motor. Michigan Motorz will install for you and they offer new motors if you'd rather go that route. Another friend well versed in motors said that a reman will break within the first year or it will last as long as a new one. Hence the warranty.

This is the one I ordered: <a href="http://www.michiganmotorz.com/5.7L+Vortec+...(1996-2007)" target="_blank">http://www.michiganmotorz.com/5.7L+Vortec+...(1996-2007)</a>

Another company you could consider is <a href="http://www.ebasicpower.com/" target="_blank">http://www.ebasicpower.com/</a> They are in Harkers Island, NC. They offer a 2-year warranty on a reman motor.

Good luck... pm me if you need anything further. Just think, if you order a new motor tomorrow you could be boating by June 1.

Thanks ShowSki. Did you have other damage to your engine that forced you to go with a new engine rather than a block a transferring everything from your original engine?

[ShowSki]

Thanks ShowSki. Did you have other damage to your engine that forced you to go with a new engine rather than a block a transferring everything from your original engine?

Dan,

The bearings were spun on at least two rods. I considered having the engine rebuilt. Decided to replace because engine shops would take about 4 weeks or more and we wanted back on the water quickly. Plus there was no guarantee that it could be rebuilt and/or that it would last. Going with the reman engine requires you to transfer quite a bit from the old (heads, fuel system, etc). Delivery was 1 week and 3 days to install (installing after work and 1 Saturday).

[Behindtheboat]

Thanks ShowSki. Did you have other damage to your engine that forced you to go with a new engine rather than a block a transferring everything from your original engine?

Dan,

The bearings were spun on at least two rods. I considered having the engine rebuilt. Decided to replace because engine shops would take about 4 weeks or more and we wanted back on the water quickly. Plus there was no guarantee that it could be rebuilt and/or that it would last. Going with the reman engine requires you to transfer quite a bit from the old (heads, fuel system, etc). Delivery was 1 week and 3 days to install (installing after work and 1 Saturday).

Cool! Thanks!

[Behindtheboat]

The shop just called....

Definitely a cracked block. They said both sides are cracked (I am going to hopefully get out there to see it today or tomorrow). Here is the quote they gave:

New engine installed - $8,280.00 (parts and labor)

Just the parts they quoted at $6,300 of that the Long block is $4788.

[99response]

I'd love to know where the other $1600 worth of parts are coming from. Are your exhaust manifolds cracked too?

-Chris

[Behindtheboat]

I'd love to know where the other $1600 worth of parts are coming from. Are your exhaust manifolds cracked too?

-Chris

Nope. Just the block...I'll get the full details on the quote when I am out there tomorrow morning.

[Behindtheboat]

I'd love to know where the other $1600 worth of parts are coming from. Are your exhaust manifolds cracked too?

-Chris

They included the manifolds and intake as well, although they said I may not need them since they did not see any cracks, but would not know for sure until they tool the engine apart....Here is the quote:

5.7L long Block - 4788

Exhaust Manifolds - 610.40

Manifold Gaskets - 25.20

Riser Gaskets - 12.00

Intake - 380.00

Intake Gaskets - 16.80

Gasket - 3.95

Labor - 1980.00

I towed the boat home from the shop today and am looking into taking this on myself. Anyone have any recommendations on a book or website with detailed instructions?