Cracked Block...looking for options in NC

[99response]

Go ahead and buy a Clymer shop manual. It will be extreemly useful.

-Chris

[Behindtheboat]

Ok. So I have my seat out, the bar that the ski pylon is mounted to is out....

I removed the exhaust manifolds, and disconnected everything from the engine to the transmission....

My question....Do I really have to unbolt the V-Drive from the prop shaft and take the transmission mounts loose to get the engine out? People talk about moving the transmission away form the engine, but the gas tank is right there so it is not going to move but maybe an inch (unless I need to take the gas tank out too?).

I have not received my clymer book yet (comes this week), so I am going at it how it seems logical to me. I am planning to make my first attempt at removing the engine tonight, but i am not planning to unbolt the transmission mounts or the V-Drive from the prop shaft.....hmmm....maybe when people talk about moving the transmission back they want me to take the V-Drive off of the transmission and move it out of the way first?

I assume people normally disconnect the V-drive from the prop shaft since realignment has been mentioned, but do you actually have to do it?

Edited June 8, 2008 by Behindtheboat

[SmoothWaterMan]

btb, the engine/tranny/vdrive all need to come out of the boat as a single unit, then break it down from there. Unbolt the propshaft at the coupler and yank the rest out.

Peter

[Behindtheboat]

btb, the engine/tranny/vdrive all need to come out of the boat as a single unit, then break it down from there. Unbolt the propshaft at the coupler and yank the rest out.

Peter

Why is that? I just got the motor out tonight. I unbolted from the transmission (left the transmission and v-drive in still mounted and connected to the prop shaft.

It was interesting....Lifted up a bit and then rotated the engine 90 degrees and out she came. Will I have problems going back in this way? I mean if there is something that is going to make this method harder I am willing to pull the other pieces out, but if I don't need to pull them out I don't really want to either.

The only thing I can think of on the way back in might be getting the transmission aligned with the engine to get that shaft (torque converter?) through the center of the flywheel.....it looks like there is some sort of clutch there that might get in the way.

Anyhow, CLYMER book should be here this week and I'll be breaking the rest down.

I know there are people here with far more experience working on these engines than I have, but I'm one of those PITA people that likes to know why. All of the help provided so far has been great and I really appreciate it. Any other advice folks I have I'd love to hear. I think when I am done I will do a writeup (with pictures) about what I did and how it went.

Thanks,

Dan

[SmoothWaterMan]

Well, obviously they don't Have to come out that way, but's faster and easier when you're working against the clock.

Good luck,

Peter

[Behindtheboat]

Well, obviously they don't Have to come out that way, but's faster and easier when you're working against the clock.

Good luck,

Peter

Thanks Peter.

Do you see any challenges with putting the motor back in while the transmission and v-drive are still bolted in?

[SmoothWaterMan]

Couldn't say - never did it that way.

Peter

[Behindtheboat]

I took the intake off tonight, I did not see any noticeable cracks. Should I do anything to make sure I do not need to replace it?

I also busted off a piece of tubing where the oil filter screws in, so I need that part replaced. It threaded into the side of where the oil filter would thread in. It had two wires (I'm guessing this was where the oil pressure was being measured?). Anyhow, does anyone know what this part is called and where I can order it?

If no one is sure what I am talking about I can get some pictures posted.

[99response]

I believe it is just a 1/8" NPT nipple, should be able to buy it at home depot...

-Chris

[Behindtheboat]

I believe it is just a 1/8" NPT nipple, should be able to buy it at home depot...

-Chris

Thanks Chris. The problem is I am not sure I can get it apart without breaking the rest of it, and if I am going to break it all I'd rather just order the whole assembly (if it comes that way).

I was also wondering, since my boat is 10 years old and I have the engine out, if there is any other maintenance people would suggest.

Thanks,

Dan

[radioman]

Funny..My motor blew and my insurance would not cover..Probably why I switched. bastards

Anyway...

My experience is from a Direct Drive standpoint. I'm guessing removing and then re-inserting a motor in V-Drive is a little more difficult. Hell, it's more difficult just to change the impeller in a V-Drive.

Regardless. From my DD experience, re-aligning was a matter of putting motor back into boat onto motor mounts. lining up all bolts, tightening down and then re-attach shaft to trainy...I had to do no re-aligning.

I would contact Indmar prior to doing anything. Larry would be a HUGE benefit to you where advice is needed.

The scariest part for me was when my buddy lifted the motor out and over the gunnel..I thought, if that SOB falls...we're done. I'm pushing my boat into the lake and letting it sink. THEN it will be covered.

Was that a FICUS tree that fell on your house?

Errrr, you didn't check the aligment or you got lucky and it aligned to .003"?

V-drives are a SOB to align unless you've done a bunch. i had to do 3 or so last year, eventually you get pretty good at it, but the 2 or 3 DD's that I did were cake in comparision.

I think we got REAL lucky. Everything just lined up perfectly. Maybe it was fate?

EDIT

I need to add. I think "improper winterazation" could be a culprit. I had a bottle of RV Antifreeze in my shed over the winter this last year and it turned very slushy and thick. Even though a person runs Antifreeze thru the motor, isn't it advised to STILL drain the block and exhaust manifolds?

rv antifreeze will turn slushy and thick. but it shrinks when cold unlike water.

[Behindtheboat]

So....Got the engine back in the boat....put everything back together (electronics and exhaust), filled it up with oil, and tried to start her up....Engine rolls over, but doesn't sound like she wants to start (not even a cough).

I have not had a change to start checking for spark at the plugs or distributor, but as I was coming up from the barn I started wondering about timing.....

If the timing is so far off that I can't start the boat, how do I adjust it? Is this possible that it is that far off?

At this point, with the block replaced and back in the boat am I better off just taking it to the dealer to get the ignition stuff straightened out? (I've started reading that section of the clymer book, and it talks about a code tool being needed).

Any thoughts/comments are appreciated!

Thanks,

Dan

[99response]

You need to time it out beforehand. You need to find TDC on cylinder 1 and make sure your distributor cap is firing on the right cylinder.

[Behindtheboat]

You need to time it out beforehand. You need to find TDC on cylinder 1 and make sure your distributor cap is firing on the right cylinder.

Thanks Chris. Any tips on doing that? I've been looking through the clymer book and so far all they talk about is how to do it while the engine is running.

I assume I need to spin the engine until Cylinder #1 is at the top of it's stroke (or as close as possible) and then spin the distributor until the rotor would be at cylinder #1. I have not opend the distributor yet, but assume it would be similar to cars I have worked on.

[areamike]

You need to time it out beforehand. You need to find TDC on cylinder 1 and make sure your distributor cap is firing on the right cylinder.

actually 10 Degrees BTDC - Read all 3 pages of Instructions.

See here for timing Instructions from Indmar.

[EZSnow]

The timing tab on the engine *should* get you pretty close to TDC on #1, but there is sometimes a little variation. Also, the main thing you need to make sure of is that you find TDC on the COMPRESSION STROKE!! If you were to time to TDC on the exhaust stroke, you'd have things going all sorts of wonky. Generally you need to be watching the valvetrain to confirm this, so off with that valve cover!

Find TDC on #1 compression, get your distributor in, set the timing to #1, install the wires and it should at least run. If you're feeling pretty good about your TDC, you turn the crank to the desired amount of timing before you set the distributor- this will get you closer to the correct setting before you crank the engine.

[Behindtheboat]

You need to time it out beforehand. You need to find TDC on cylinder 1 and make sure your distributor cap is firing on the right cylinder.

actually 10 Degrees BTDC - Read all 3 pages of Instructions.

See here for timing Instructions from Indmar.

Yeah 10 degrees BTDC is where it has to be when all is said and done, but everything I have read (including your link) talks about having the engine running. There has to be some manual stuff you can do to get the timing close enough that the engine will start so you can time it out to 10 degress BTDC, wich is what Chris is referring too I believe....

I'm just not totally sure on the process (I took a guess at it above).

[99response]

Honestly its not easy. You can pull all the spark plugs so the motor spins easier. Start on cylinder #1, you can stick your finger in there and "feel" for the compression stroke. You know the cylinder at the top/bottom of its stroke by the mark on the crank. Hopefully you have the little sticker with the degrees on it so you can get to 10 degrees (approx). Check the valvetrain as mentioned to make sure you're on the compression stroke (both valves closed)

Now you drop the distributor (back) in and make sure that rotor is pointing on #1. Don't tighten the clamp all the way. Your other option is to change the wires around instead of removing it.

Also great time to check your firing order....

May be a pretty cheap thing for the dealer to do, because then you need to computer and a timing light to go into base timing mode and fine tune it.

-Chris

[Behindtheboat]

Honestly its not easy. You can pull all the spark plugs so the motor spins easier. Start on cylinder #1, you can stick your finger in there and "feel" for the compression stroke. You know the cylinder at the top/bottom of its stroke by the mark on the crank. Hopefully you have the little sticker with the degrees on it so you can get to 10 degrees (approx). Check the valvetrain as mentioned to make sure you're on the compression stroke (both valves closed)

Now you drop the distributor (back) in and make sure that rotor is pointing on #1. Don't tighten the clamp all the way. Your other option is to change the wires around instead of removing it.

Also great time to check your firing order....

May be a pretty cheap thing for the dealer to do, because then you need to computer and a timing light to go into base timing mode and fine tune it.

-Chris

Any damage to be done in turning the distributor a few degrees at a time until I get it running and then hitting it with a timing gun?

[99response]

You really need to find that TDC, can't time it out if you have it running like $hit

[nemalibu]

Howdy all!

This will be my first post here, and unfortunately it is with BAD news.

Took the boat out last weekend and noticed the bilge pump kicked on. When I opened the engine compartment I could see water was being sprayed into the bilge from somewhere on the engine....when I get the boat back on the trailer and open the engine compartment again I see light brown sludge on the top of my engine and in the bilge....and when I pull the dipstick the oil is a light brown milky substance.

She's at the shop now and they have not looked at it to confirm, but they seem sure I have a cracked block.

Their estimates to replace the engine were $8500 for a new engine and $5000 for a remanufactured. Does this seem in the ballpark....do I have other options? Is this something I could do myself (I am failry handy, but have never rebuilt anything larger than a lawn mower engine).

This is for a 1998 Malibu Sunsetter VLX with an Indmar Monsoon in it. I am located in Wake Forest, NC if anyone has any experience with boat places or engine folks in the area.

Thanks,

Dan

I am surprised that the 8 freeze plugs in the GM 350 block did not go instead of the block. Have all of them been checked (including the ones in the bell housing) to be sure that it is the block?

[Behindtheboat]

I am surprised that the 8 freeze plugs in the GM 350 block did not go instead of the block. Have all of them been checked (including the ones in the bell housing) to be sure that it is the block?

Yeah, having replaced the block now and have it back in the boat (I have several pictures along the way I will post when this is done) it was definitely cracked.

None of the freeze plugs were out, but two big cracks on each side. Being able to see the cracks it has to have been freeze damage, but given what I do to winterize and how mild winters are here I am still in disbelief.

[wakeup]

I am surprised that the 8 freeze plugs in the GM 350 block did not go instead of the block. Have all of them been checked (including the ones in the bell housing) to be sure that it is the block?

Yeah, having replaced the block now and have it back in the boat (I have several pictures along the way I will post when this is done) it was definitely cracked.

None of the freeze plugs were out, but two big cracks on each side. Being able to see the cracks it has to have been freeze damage, but given what I do to winterize and how mild winters are here I am still in disbelief.

Sorry for all your troubles & expense. I do not live far from you. It was a mild winter, but I still remember a few nights in the teens back late Dec/early Jan and barely above freezing during the day. However, if winterized I'm confused with the cracked block. My winterized boat went through the same weather outside in a boat house in the lift all year with no problems. Good luck with everything.