Auto Ballast Q's

[Dave K]

Hello guys/gals,

I know there is a ton of info but I do have a few questions if someone could help me out, (kind of green)

I have a 99 BU Sunsetter V-drive and planning on 2 440 sacs at the back and one in the floor ski locker up front.

1. I was planning to use a Perko thru-hull cast bronze scoop. For 3 bags do I need 3 scoops, or could I use 3 pumps off 1 scoop, Might starve for water right?? I din't want to get involved with switching someone on a home made manifold.

2. Would i have problems with air locks whenusing "Y'' 's or "T" 's

3. Dum question but do the slots face the back or the front?

I was planning as advised by others using Atwood Tsunami 1200 GPH pumps to fill

4. Should i go with 3 pumps to fill

5. Would one of those pumps push water up from the back area all the way to the front locker.

I was also planning to use 3 Atwood Tsunami 800 PGH pumps to empty with

5. I guess the pumps should go on the rear side of each sac so the pump always has water to pump until empty of course.

6. Does anyone have a link for nice on-off-on switches? Lighted switches I guess would be best.

7. I think each bag needs 3 hoses... 1 fill. 1 empty, and 1 vent. Where does everyone connect there vent hose to?? a second thu hull or the empty line with a check value?

Thanks everyone for the help

[Brad B]

A. Forget 440s and use 750s - everyone I know that has put in 440s changed to 750s.

B. Seperate thru hulls for each pump - pump has to be connected as close to the thru hull as possible cuz they only move water they don't "suck" it up.

C. One pump for each fill and one pump for each drain

D. Drain pump just on the bottom where access is easy - these things can break or leak and need maintainence.

Don't fuss over totally empty bags you're just gonna fill them up again soon.

E. Vent goes out anywhere HIGHER than the top of the sac when filled.

[C28]

I just added 2 - 750s in the lockers on our LSV. Like Brad said 2 fill pumps and 2 drain pumps that way you can control the balance in the boat. I teed both pumps off of 1 - 3/4" drain plug under the engine and tied into the existing vent and drain lines. Both pumps do fill the bags in about 5-10 min I used the same 1250 gpm pumps to drain because I got a better deal in ebay. Just remember to install a ball valve to kill the system if you have a problem.

Here are some photos.

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j133/gwnkids/p005.jpg

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j133/gwnkids/p004.jpg

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j133/gwn.../p007Medium.jpg

http://i79.photobucket.com/albums/j133/gwn.../Braylin062.jpg

[Dave K]

Thank You for the info.

The ball value you are referring to is a one way check value right close to the pump?

Also those switches look great. Where did you get those?

I don't know why but I have this fear of drilling a hole in the bottom of the boat. I was thinking of drilling though the transon (below water level) 2 holes for 2 pumps. I realize the limitations to fill when going forward, but ..... I guess I am paranoid of going through the hull.

Thanks alot for the pics

[Dave K]

I just added 2 - 750s in the lockers on our LSV. Like Brad said 2 fill pumps and 2 drain pumps that way you can control the balance in the boat. I teed both pumps off of 1 - 3/4" drain plug under the engine and tied into the existing vent and drain lines. Both pumps do fill the bags in about 5-10 min I used the same 1250 gpm pumps to drain because I got a better deal in ebay. Just remember to install a ball valve to kill the system if you have a problem.

Pic 005***You run 2 pumps off the one drain plug hole ? Doesn't seem to be too much room there from what i can see. What kind of boat do you have. My drain plug (and I don't think it is 1 3/4", maybe 1") is closer to the front of the engine and kitty corner to the corner of the fuel tank.

The first thing that gets connected to the thu hull intake strainer is a shut off value ...correct?

For the front bag in the ski locker, should I be drilling into the hull up there, use a thu hull scoop up there too, and place the pump close to the bag or can I have the pump closer to the back of the boat.

Looking at the inside of the hull on my 99 sunsetter v-drive there seems to be some room to the front of the engine but Malibu has epoxied the transducer there for the depth sounder. Has anyone tried to remove and place the transducer elsewhere?

Any links for those nice switches?

[C28]

I got the idea from my first boat it was a 22SSV Supra and they used a manifold with all 3 valves filling off of a 1" hole. There was 1 1100 gph pump with sprinkler type actuator valves (one for each bag). It worked well but not very fast thats why I used 2 pumps. I just used the existing drain plug location for the fill side and yes you are right the order is thu hull fitting, ell, nipple, ball valve, nipple, tee, 2 pumps hose to bags.

The dealer had the switches they only had the ones pointing right so they ordered a left for me. I think $ 9 each.

[Brad B]

Thru hull - brass ball valve - fill pump

Thats the order.

Using a pump for each fill and drain point makes it easier to use dash switches and less valves to turn on and off.

The one way check valves are used in the fill line to eliminate the siphon effect that drains the water back thru the fill pump. I've used them before but oddly enough this last time have not needed them. I did however need to put a ball valve between the drain hose and the hull exit point cuz once the sac got about 500 lbs in it the water would force out. A wine bottle cork works too - LOL. So I have the drain pump on the bottom port of the sac with it facing the front or just under the corner seat for very ez access.

Another pretty simple and extremely effective non-plumbed way is known as "The Butler" perfected by the Ducky. This is mainly for surfing fills.

One 750 in each trunk with the bottom port facing forward and just under the back corner seats - quick release fittings only. Fill one sac from the bottom with the Tsunami then cap quickly - sure you'll lose about a quart of water but no worries. Then when you switch surfing sides and go to fill the other side connect the drain to the filled bag and fill it directly in to the other sac - saves drain time and you don't hafta move all the stuff out of the trunks to get to the top fill ports

[Chia]

I got the idea from my first boat it was a 22SSV Supra and they used a manifold with all 3 valves filling off of a 1" hole. There was 1 1100 gph pump with sprinkler type actuator valves (one for each bag). It worked well but not very fast thats why I used 2 pumps. I just used the existing drain plug location for the fill side and yes you are right the order is thu hull fitting, ell, nipple, ball valve, nipple, tee, 2 pumps hose to bags.

The dealer had the switches they only had the ones pointing right so they ordered a left for me. I think $ 9 each.

do not even consider any actuator valve that is not full thru port (ie: actuated ball valve) the restriction will kill fill speed. I have seen them somewhere (12vdc) for around $150-$170 each.

[Juice75]

Dave K - I have the exact same boat, and finished up an install last year. The link to my write up is below. One thing I added this year is a false floor on top of the ski locker bag. It's basically a piece of plastic that is just bigger than the ski locker opening. It sits on top of the ski locker bag, and as the bag fills, it floats up and keeps the locker sac from pushing the door open.

Let me know if you have any questions.

http://www.themalibucrew.com/forums/index....c=2706&st=0