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They count DFW 3 times and NorCal twice… you know, Tommy’s math! A few of the 12 I referenced will have two locations in this new dealer network. I just didn’t double count. Kinda surprised you trusted the math of a bankrupt boat dealer over mine, but I digress… 🤪

Thank you in advance for any help. What can I do to make sure I have enough battery to push best sound all day and not end up draining both batteries? I have a 2018 Malibu MLX. (purchased new in summer 2019) It has 120 hours on it and same 2 batteries that came with boat. I play music on either battery 1 or 2 then switch when it's time to go or battery starts fading. We'll be playing a lot of music this weekend and have a feeling we'll be using a lot of the battery. I have a portable charger in case engine won't start when departing. Sometimes the base and or certain speakers will shut off if battery is low. What can I do to make sure I have enough battery to push best sound all day and not end up draining both batteries? Is my only option purchasing more robust batteries? Thank you for any help!

Hmmmm, looks like i am getting (2) codes - (1) long (6) short which is DC protection and (1) long (2) short which is short protect channel 3&4. The second one is strange because it’s the tower amp and I believe only channels 1&2. Trying to do more research on the DC protect to understand that error.

The pnp fills after the hard tanks fill from the same pumps. So if your hard tanks are able to fill then your pnp should fill up as well. On my boat, there is a ball valve on the fill hose going to the top of the pnp bag. You have to open that valve for the pnp to fill.

@IXFE - Tommy’s still has 15 listed on their website

Give me your list of 16? And I will bump it up against my list and see what’s missing.

It’s throttle by wire, so no cables. There’s no slip in the throttle arm and the gap is relatively consistent, so I don’t think anything is warm. I can do fine because I drive a lot, but when we have a crew skiing sometimes I get a jolt in the hole shot.

The blinking may have a pattern. If so, its a diagnostic code. Watch for the long and short flashes and reference against the manual.

I have a 2013 Malibu MXZ Wakestter.... I had the dealer install the plug & play additional ballast tanks a couple years ago. Kids were small at the time so I never used them. Since, I had to replace the conrol panel module due to delamination. Since I replaced the control panel, I tried filling the plug & play ballasts but they didn't fill. Is this a programming thing? Does the new control panel need to be programmed to fill the ballasts? Thanks!

Your local dealer may elect to become a pinched-a$s-b!tch when it comes to service or warranty work. I personally don't understand why they do that, but some of them think that it is important for you to be a customer of all aspects of their company in order to partake of only some of the aspects. Driving customers away is never good for business. Attempting to gain customers by threatening to not service their boat is not good for business either. Your distant dealer may not be able to conveniently title or register your new boat. It shouldn't be a problem for you to do it, and they shouldn't charge you for it if they can't do it for you.

I think I would prep it well and spray it with clear aircraft paint such as Awlgrip or Imron. I had a Glastron Carlson CVX-16 in metal flake with an Imron clearcoat that didn't need waxing or other maintenance. Use it, wash it, put it away. I suspect it would work well as a freshwater bottom paint. On the other hand, the best protection for a hull left in salt water is a good non-fouling bottom paint (generally with added copper).

Have a few customers boats that have been 100% done in ppf. It needs to be installed properly in order to last, edges are much easier to catch and peel up than in an automotive application. Any bumps against docks have the potential to scuff the ppf and the entire panel will need replacing. It’s also crazy money for such a large application so get a few quotes. I have not seen a boat done with metal flake to protect fading but I don’t see why it wouldn’t work.

I don’t think there’s a good clear film option. The best option would be to invest in a lift. You might have good luck going with ceramic coating and removing the boat and clean/wax/buff it multiple times per season. But with ceramic coating, it will have to be redone every 2-3 years and by that time you could have likely bought a lift for less money than the ceramic coatings. My tint guy at work uses a clear film called gorilla film over the glass tint in hospital patient rooms. It’s about 8-10 mil thick and holds up really well to getting chairs and equipment bumped into them without damaging the expensive film underneath. It’s similar to clear bra that goes on cars. I’m sure there would be a way to get it installed.

The other night we were on the boat, we lost our dash display for a moment, and when it came back, our tower speakers were only working intermittently and clicking, like every 30 seconds or so. Today I was under the helm and I see that one of my amplifiers is blinking red, occasionally it will be purple and blue as well. I think the blinking patterns may coincide with the clicking speakers. Any thoughts on what this could be? The amp blinking is the forward amp, which am assuming is the tower speaker amplifier.

Has anyone tried or thought of trying to have a clear wrap done a boat that sits in the water for long periods of time? would it help with blistering or saving the metallic gel coat? Atleast going up to the next lines on the boat that sit above the water line. My boat usually sits in a slip for the season and my previous boat the gelcoat lost its metallic to it. Just trying to keep it looking great. Also though about cermaic coating whats everyones thoughts, besides taking it out very couple of weeks cleaning and letting dry out?

Has anyone purchased from a non local Malibu dealer? Anything to know that is different from a local dealer?

Just got this email from my local dealer, apparently they are moving the Tommy's boats around if other dealers are willing to take them

A friend’s CC200 does the same thing, makes me think the throttle assembly may be a culprit.

Is your throttle electronic or mechanical cables? If it is cables, the end nuts are probably worn out. If it is electronic, the assembly may be loose or worn. I would think that the rheostat is adjustable for dead band, but I have not looked in one.

Try places like iboats, wholesale marine and google mercruiser parts + cooling hoses or similar buzz words. If all else fails you can get lucky at a good auto parts store.

My throttle has about a 1” dead spot once it’s engaged in drive before it starts to accelerate. My buddy’s MC does the same thing. It’s a bit of a PITA for skiing as it’s a little unpredictable when the boat will engage. Is there an adjustment setting somewhere to eliminate this?

Having trouble finding eng parts (intake hose , off crank w/p) for mu boat. Any recommendations?

@IXFE - the list of the 4 that don’t get a replacement dealership? Bummer for those customers. @Txstoj - I would not have guessed that, all the ski schools and water access in Florida. Interesting.

DFW - its the #1 inboard boat market in the country.

What tower is that I bought a 93 echelon recently and my tower mounts are in the same spot but I can't find a tower that matches the mount location