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OP, you’ve probably figured this out by now, but I just learned in the past few days that the engines (at least my Raptor 410) are under warranty for 5 years or 600 hours. The boat is 5 years or 500 hours. So, hours do play into your calculus.

Check the transom stereo remote and see if the "MODE" button is stuck in the pushed-in position. Older boat with Maliview (2013 22MXZ) but I had a flickering/acting up screen battle on many outings, to the point that I took the dash apart and checked connections on the back of the screen, it would go away and come back at random times, sometimes I'd do a battery reset and it would go away. Last time it happened nothing was working to fix it, I had the Maliview screen pulled out of the dash, stereo amp panel moved because it appears to be an electrical issue......I was just about to pull the boat and bring it to the dealer when my friend noticed the "MODE" button on the transom remote was stucked.....everything came back to normal once the button was reset. Turns out that people would often touch that button and at times it got stuck.

Miami of Ohio represented, plus spent a lot of time (and Halloweens) at OU on Court st. IYKYK

So, as seen in my recent polemic, this boat https://www.coralgablesyachts.com/boats-for-sale/2002-malibu-sunscape-21-lsv-holland-michigan-8967585/ will head to GA on Monday, after getting the fiberglass back to its original pop, and minor other-stuff. Also seen in that post which was stuck at the bottom of what is a 20+ response to what I started as I was headed to survey/sea trial her, was all her warts and glory after that survey and sea trial. Among the "Easter Eggs" were the Perfect Pass and Skylon not mentioned in the advertising. I'm taking the trailer to someone who'll fix the fenders (good luck in matching the purple paint which goes with the boat fiberglass accent color!)... I've also reached out to Walter (V-Drive) who, as yet, have not responded, asking for an owner's manual. Which brings me to the first askit: Does anyone have a PDF version of, or know how to obtain, a real '02-generation Walter (presumed from the case top) 26 06D C tranny user manual? And ditto, an engine manual? Given that there have to be many looking on who've got the same engine, what's the recommended fuel? I'm thinking of adding a Racor or similar filter, though I suspect that the level of use and source will make it such that grunge and water aren't the same hazard as I had in my sailboat I lived on for 15 years, in the wilds of the Bahamas and US East coast (advice??). Likewise, a Skylon manual? So far as I've been able to discern, the Skylon has no strain relief modus (I'd been - but may be mistaken - of the belief that it used two pole-to-gunwale-attachment tension-relief rods/pipes to take the stress of line-attached wake activities). Should there be some that I may have overlooked by not excavating the port stern locker? Or is the norm to just use a cable-over-the-bow (which would seem to be overlooking the side forces in boarding)? (The black pole is the port side guide pole, and the black to the left is the walk-through insert for cold weather comfort...) On further and close inspection, it's possible that the white line on either side of the guide pole is actually vinyl-clad cable, and attaches somewhere forward (?)... I saw what I suspect might be the Perfect Pass cheat sheet (and the radio faceplate) in the chart compartment over the cubby: However, if that's all it is (not a manual) I need one of those as well, as I didn't see ANY form of manuals in that cubby. Likewise, I saw nothing looking like an owner's manual for either (apparently Malibu supplied, as the paint on the trailer matches the boat trim) the trailer or the boat itself. The Eagle trailer was made nearby in Wyandotte MI but was bought out shortly after; I've written to the successor in hopes of getting a manual or PDF of same. As to the boat, it might be like my tow vehicle, for which I was to find (on eBay) a NEW-in-shrinkwrap OEM owner's manual and army-look sleeve containing all original documentation - but I haven't a clue where to look for a Sunscape manual. And, a REAL longshot, the cover which bolts to the V-Drive top, covering that area all the way up to the distributor cap: vs: The hatch risers, as might be expected, have, for the most part, reached the end of their useful lives. Thus, the engine cover won't stay up without a prop, the starboard cubby got sat on or otherwise damaged and ripped out or removed from the face of the lid (still in the cubby, bent rod hanging down), but the curiously oriented chart bin riser and the under port-front-dashboard riser both appear to be OK. I'm guessing these are a standard marine or automotive part and not difficult to source, but I have no clue, of course. Suggestions for sources appreciated. As before and so far, thanks to all who have contributed to the hive mind solution to my ignorance. I hope one day to be that person to other newbies, as I am for the boat I left (Morgan 461 sailboat I lived aboard and cruised for 15 years), but at the moment my learning curve is more like a cliff base climb for the 02 Sunscape LSV! L8R Skip

Me too. They called me this morning to advise me that my boat is in Grand Rapids getting gel coat repairs under warranty. I was supposed to get it tomorrow, and now it's next week. Not thrilled with this to say the least. To @ahopkins22LSV and @MikeR397, I'm happy to hear you're pleased with how they're handling things for you. I can't say the same. My boat has been there since the last week of February and this is the 3rd time it's been held up. Also, we do have Gull Lake and the Coldwater dealers in the state. I've spoken with Full Lake and they've said they would service my boat if needed.

Count me in too. Still working at one.

Definitely extends to the 2015 and 2016’s too. Any of them with the screen on the right seem to have a 100% failure rate. As far as the big main screen goes, they seem like they’re better designed and don’t fail as often - at least judging off TMC posts that is.

Thanks! I am an OU Bobcast myself, so I make fun of the Kent flag too, LOL.

Just picked up a 2003 VLX and I'm the third owner and have a few questions... 1. What type of lock are people using to secure tongue of the trailer? I have the ball lock and a long shanked lock and neither will work because the head of the tongue on trailer is squared and the ball lock bar will not go all the way thru locking plate and the key lock isn't long enough to go thru receiver horizontally. Neither the ball lock nor the long shanked will work. The locks I have worked on my previous boat trailer which was a mastercraft prostar 205V but will not work on this one. 2. It came with the bimini that mounts under the tower but I was wondering does anyone make a bimini that mounts on top of the tower? 3. Can anyone tell me if this a factory tower and if so what it is called?

Ya that’s my plan, including for 10hr service. I service my own stuff but know they require dealer service for the warranty so I told them I’ll do it with them or sit and watch but it’s not getting checked into the system for service until completed and I’m pulling out of the parking lot (and under no circumstance staying overnight).

I am picking ours up today. I have been pleased with how they are handling the situation with us. I can't imagine what it is like for the employees at any location.

Or maybe just plan to drop off one the tech is ready and plan to pick up once techs are done. No storing it there while waiting on parts etc.

I was there yesterday, they said it’s generally business as normal except selling a new boat requires bank communication that day to make sure things are documented. Of course, things could change at any moment so I did pick up my boat and made sure to spend my pro shop credit, but they were great and on business as normal

That would take the stoichiometric air/fuel ration from 14.7 to 1, up to 15.3 to 1 on an open loop (non lambda) FI engine.

And I should say - this is a terrible way to wind up with a self fulfilling prophecy. People pull their boats out of service and refuse to bring them in, causing the service dept to shut down. So sucks for the employees.

Doesn't really seem like a good time to let any location have your boat.

As of this morning, the Lewisville location is staying open, and in fact I was told that the Fort Worth techs are transferring over. This could obviously change at any time, so I imagine there is some risk. And again, if they don't have the necessary parts in stock locally, I doubt they will be able to do the repair.

Welcome to post Covid America!!! Nobody wants to do there job I see this across all industries.

I would guess that an idle problem is related to either a vacuum or fuel leak. You could try spraying some starter fluid around the base and seams of the carb with the engine idling to see if you get a bump in RPM. Fuel leaks may be harder to deduce, but double-checking the float level is a great place to start.

I have an 02 Sportster and have been having carb issues as well. Your carb is likely a Holley 4160. I can't for the life of me get my carb to idle consistently or run well in low gear despite a rebuilt a few years ago. Just ordered a new one from Holley two days ago. Luckily, if you need a new carb, the 4160 is on sale from $900 down to $625!

I believe if an Indmar your carb will be like this one: idle speed adjustment is done via screw 175/176 in diagram. Google Holley carb and lots of info at your fingertips.

Great looking boat and set up. Congrats on the new purchase! You are going to find yourself loving all the new tech and features! (I will spare the jokes on the Kent St flag....Can't read, can't write....LOL. MAC educated from OH here, as well ...) I have never pulled my bags. My boat is dry racked - so I may be less susceptible to water / rain and all. I am thinking in all four boats we have owned, the depth finder has been good and never needed calibration. Our dealer does an AWESOME job in putting ten hrs on them before delivering. I.E. all these types of things are worked out prior to me pulling away.

It's not all bad. Patrick Industries stock went over $100/share back in January while things were slow. Started a steep increase in October last year while the RV industry was really slow. Can't rule them all out.

The most affordable way to check for active or previously active engine fault codes is by using the Viper screen setup menu in the boat. After turning on the dash power button and entering the start code, press the Setup button at the right of the Viper screen, press the down arrow to scroll to the bottom of the list, and use the Enter button to select Active Engine Faults or Inactive Engine Faults to see the SPN FMI fault code numbers. Otherwise, go to Rinda.com to purchase Diacom or the TechMate Pro.

Praying Detroit stays open for a few days