All Activity

Plug with the yellow/black and black wires is for the neutral safety switch. Plug with the tan/black and grey wires is for the transmission temperature sensor.

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/70ej40atc4uqwnnzo9wau/IMG_6677.jpeg?rlkey=uok4se1nlbgwrwxbgp2w12dqe&st=k6z10w2c&dl=0

I did not know that. DHM out of Sac is who I remember. The guy i met, I did not feel was old enough to be building trailers in the 90’s. Maybe he bought it out.

SBT trailers were under a ton of Malibu’s in the 90’s and into the 2000’s. when Malibu was in the Central Valley here they might have been the standard trailer for boats manufactured on the west coast. I had 2 SBT trailers and they performed well for me.

I see you are out of Seattle. This guy is local to me. I ran into him at a service station a while back. He seemed very knowledgeable. You might try and give him a shout https://www.sbtrailers.com

What are the 2 Phillips screws holding? The brush gear plate? I agree with justgary. Use a meter to check from the leads to the braids. We're not done yet!

After the conversation I had today. I would not leave anything at a Tommy’s location right now. From what I can read from posts on here and conversations I have had. Tommy’s is not paying leases, in response owners of the property are locking them out. THIS IS TOTAL HEARSAY! But there is no way in hedoublehockeysticks I would leave my boat at any Tommy’s dealership right now YMMV!! Take your chances if you like. I am in the Central Valley.

I put a ZZ4 cam in mine during a rebuild. Runs great but spark plugs say it is running rich. Way better than running lean. No reprogramming.

I have a set of rebuilt injectors sitting on my shelf, interested?

I had this problem last year on my monsoon. I just rolled the area circled in red around a 6" bench grinder. Doesn't take much work. Kinda messes up the injector but you can't see that. Used a caliper to check the diameter. Doesn't affect sealing. The metal lathe should work great.

John is right, they were purchased by Lippert. It’s actually worth a call, they still build for Centurion. I will say though, I reached out last fall looking for something for my 2008 trailer and I never got a response.

Same, who knows maybe the next time I need new injectors someone will make ones that fit!

Can’t see the photos

2008 Malibu VLX. Changed transmission. Two wires left over and I can’t figure out where they go. Here’s the wires. https://m.facebook.com/groups/952129868771174/permalink/1434594513858038/?

Drop dead gorgeous boat. I just drooled on my keyboard. No idea on value. Most late 80s/early 90s closed bow boats that are in great condition seem to be in the $12-$18K range, but it's hard to put yours into that category given all the work that has been done. This was clearly a labor of love vs a "fix it on the cheap". I took 7 years to restore a 67 Mustang and even doing most of the work myself I knew it wasn't going to be a money-maker when I sold it. I did it to make it how I wanted to create it and enjoy it, and I loved the process. I'd list it on a website, like Bring A Trailer, where you have a lot of high end buyers that appreciate craftsmanship and want something nobody else has on the water. GLWS!

This is not a very common boat which can be good or bad for selling. There are only 3 on only inboards. There is a very nice 2001 Sunscape VLX for $24K that looks mint, 300 hours, but only has 1 photo and has no tower. There is also an original owner 2001 with factory titan tower and 305 hours for $18K. That seems like a steal, and having a one owner boat adds $$ in my opinion. I'd say your in the + or - $20K range. You have the no carpet interior with new vinyl...huge plus there for any buyer. And I think your color combo is a popular one that will appeal to a wide range of buyers. GLWS!

Thank you, that's what I was wondering. quick edit: Don't want to derail, so the knowledge about deposits is good in that it shows how a buyer can develop a good long term relationship between their dealer and the manufacturer. Good for everyone and with luck a better finished product. The optimist in me say's remain hopeful for a remedy that works for all the players involved.

I wasn't aware you guys got any snow this winter.

Thieves suck Although gobbled up by a much bigger company years ago, I believe Extreme Trailers is still around here in SoCal if you were thinking about buying new. https://www.extremetrailers.com/

Great write up and thanks for the shoutout!! Another pointer for the rgb wires that are super hard to work with would be to pin your 4 conductor wire going to the cans and buy molex connectors so you don’t have to use the crappy small wires supplied. https://www.waytekwire.com/product/molex-39-01-3043-mini-fit-jr-connector https://www.waytekwire.com/product/molex-39-01-2040-mini-fit-jr-connector https://www.waytekwire.com/product/molex-39-00-0039-mini-fit-jr-socket-terminal https://www.waytekwire.com/product/molex-39-00-0041-mini-fit-jr-pin-terminal Makes life so much easier to just pin your wire going to them.

Grab a meter and see if you can find which wires are connected and which aren't. No doubt they are hooked to pairs of brushes that are opposite of each other (+ opposes +, and - opposes -). I'm thinking you can test resistance from one brush to an adjacent brush as you slowly spin the armature. If a wire is open to one brush the resistance would be different on two adjacent sets compared to the other two. Probably worth checking connections at the spade connectors at the brush ends as well.

I thought someone might benefit from seeing a quick tutorial on how to mount Rev 12 HD's to a G5 tower. Disclaimer: I'm not responsible for any damage and there may be a better way to do this. I'm just focusing on the mounting portion, you also obviously need to wire them to an amp but that is pretty straightforward. Credit to @Brandonloos21 for helping me out! What you need to buy: 1 set Rev 12 HD's, G5 tower mounts, XHD mounts, 14/2 speaker wire, 20/4 LED wire 1) Fish your speaker and LED wire from the upper speaker wire holes to the port side of the tower. There is a small hole pre-drilled under the tower to pass the wire thru the gunnel. This was very easy with a standard electrical fishing tape. I left about 18" of speaker wire hanging out where the tower speakers will go. 2) Mount your G5 tower mounts using the 4 bolts with loctite 3) Prep your XHD mounts. You will want to cut the wire (save the part with the connector!!) and drill out the hole so you can pass the speaker wire you just fished thru. Basically all the connections will happen inside the can. I used sequential drill bits up to 1/2". You can test if your hole is big enough by trying to pass your speaker wire and LED wire through. You will also need to use a grinder to trim off the front lower corner of the XHD mount. If you try to test fit it, you will see that it just barely contacts the tower without modifying. 4) Prep your speakers. Follow the instructions in the wet sounds rev 12 manual to remove the speaker from the can and swap over the inner plate to the one that goes with the XHD mounts. At this point you should have a can that is ready to bolt up. 5) Pass through wires through the XHD mount and into the speaker can and bolt up using loctite and locking washers. I was able to do this by myself but another helper would be useful here. 6) Butt splice the connectors you cut off the XHD mounts onto the speaker wire and LED wire that is dangling out of the can. The LED wires are tough because they are so tiny. 7) Connect the LED wires and tuck them away in the back of the can. 8) Lift up the speaker innards and connect them to the quick connect. Then carefully push the speaker back into the can, being careful with the LED strip. Screw the speaker into the can, the LED ring into the can, and the grille. Also, make sure the Wet Sounds logo on the fore side of the speaker is oriented correctly. You're all done!

Thanks for clarifying. That part is a bit more pesky to turn, but maybe it would work with a collet to hold the small end. It would be nice to get all of this settled so we know exactly what to do when we need new injectors. I would certainly rather modify the new parts than the old engine, but that's just how I was trained.

OK, I polished the commutator up nice and shiny. And I sanded the ends of the brushes as best I could. I figured out how to temporarily disengage the springs on each brush so I could insert the rotor, and then re-engage them before assembling the rotor into the housing. I then put DC 12V across the wires to test...and nothing. I rotated the top of the housing 180 degrees....still nothing. My best guess is that the block where the wires go in...has some malfunction. Maybe the wires inside there are corroded or broken. They appear to be pretty permanently in there, so could not pull them out. I wiggled them around a bit but still nothing. Shucks. Was worth the try though. Looks like I will have to drop the $1600 for the new one. If anyone wants these parts I can send them for the price of shipping. If someone can fix it I would buy it back as a spare part. Thanks for all the help.

The part I am talking about is what I circled in red. That is the part that needs to be turned down. The part you put in red sits above the intake manifold.