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Just come across photos of 97 Moomba. Boat was a Stejcraft powered by a 200hp Suzuki. The Stejcraft was used for all 3 skiing disciplines, as far as I can remember there was no wakeboard comp. How times have changed.

Hey guys, Its that time of year and I'm starting to prep the boat for the season. I will be changing out the transmission fluid for the first time since owning this boat which iv owned for 2 years. (its a 1996 Echelon XL) The transmission in the boat is the Velvet Drive 10-17-004. I have picked up a syphon pump and some Mobil ATF D/M. The question is: Will this be a good choice for the application? Linked here is the specs. https://www.mobil.ca/en-ca/lubricants/for-business/heavy-duty-lubricants/products/mobil-atf-dm Comparing the specs and recommendations it seems to meet the requirements, however I tend to overthink things and just want to be sure. Thanks!

Sometimes it's a lot of "fun" but if that's the end result, it's never a bad thing.

Some things you just had to be around for, kind of like if someone references sperrys or taking off their shirt at a boat ramp. If you know, you know…

Congrats, that color is going to look awesome on the water! Have similar scuffs on the hull of mine as well. Will be addressed during ceramic coating this week, but interesting that yours had them also. As for the new cover system, I actually sort of like the functionality of the hooks and single ratchet, but have similar longevity concerns (the loops on the corners seem like a real weak point). How do you like the Rev12's? I opted for Rev10HD's, a full amp re-power, and swapping out the pathetic factory sub for a JL M7. Night and day difference on sound quality.

@shawndoggy - just wanted to say thanks... Took me most of the winter to find a stupid black box as sadly the version I had was not available anywhere ended up having to order from the dealer at 2x the price of all the out of stock places I found on line. On the bright side hull is wet this spring and stereo is back to new again!

But what's up with all the jokes about them? Where they some sort of bad/unique/other? I saw a few in passing but now with the Tommy's stuff a lot more references to them and I just don't have the history to or geographic proximity to get it and got curious.

What’s your rpm surfing in “surf left” preset which has wedge in 3? I need to double check but think I was at 3700 with just my wife surfing and 3 year old on boat. Seemed a little high, was set at 10.8mph, but this is literally my first week captaining a surf boat so all this is new to me. eta: I also had a fun incident today where the rear fat saks would not drain. I hit go home (and drain later) and the front and middle drained and dash said rear had but it seems it was actually filling just the rears and continuously flowing out the side from overflow? Messed around for 15 minutes and could not drain anything out the rear sacs. The only thing that fixed this was to shut the batteries off and then hit drain again and they drained properly. Will bring this up at my 10hr service later this week. Also have been getting repeated “auto bulge fault” message on the dash, but the hull is pretty dry.

I have the M5 with the 2277 and am at about 42mph WOT.

Skiers Pier was an independently owned Malibu dealership in Waterford, MI. Tommys bought them out in 2018 IIRC.

Good question. In my searching I see lots of folks so excited that Tommys bought them and how good that will be for years to come. The similar issue to Tommy’s I recall was Bridge City Marine. Anyone know what that guy ended up getting for penalties?

Your numbers sound like plenty of performance to me. Folks with LT4 have reported 50mph I think even in larger 23 or 24ft boats; the 1.5:1 transmission is a big difference. Tho it's all kinda irrelevant in my book as theres no need to be breaking 40mph in a surf boat anyway

A lot of new surfers are looking for a pocket on the wave, where they don’t have to do much but stand there. I learned to surf in 2017 on a broadcast. And we were looking for a sweet spot. I carry a broadcast on my own boat to teach people on. But I can’t ride it anymore it’s too slow, I fall off the wave every time on it. My point being some boards are slow. My next suggestion to you is to move your front foot forward and move both of your feet more toeside especially the front foot. Being too much heel side (which most of us learned from wakeboarding and snowboarding) pulls you out and off the wave. At least for me foot position is very critical but I do move my feet around the board quite a bit when I am surfing. Cheers! I hope you get it figured out. I learned to surf on a 2017 A22 and we did it with no rear plug and play…

I think that over 125F is too high also, unless you just used the brakes for a long time, such as descending a hill and coming to a stop. I don't recall ever not being able to hold my hand on a hub for an indefinite time. I don't have any non-electric brakes, though, so maybe that is different. A really good rule of thumb on temperature is that at 125F you cannot hold your thumb on it as long as you want.

I didn't mean to lead you on a wild goose chase, but it is good to hear that you found the problem.

2277 but yeah that's right there, I hit 44mph on perfect conditions with a little ripple in the water surface. so same/same.

CSleaver This is going to sound lame and stupid. I literally have almost 9 hours chasing things down and tearing every module apart and I found the problem. The issue was with one of the ground cables to the battery. On battery 1 the ground has a double connection to make a direct line to the stereo amp. That ground was poor. I didn't think about that ground because I wasn't concerned with the stereo at the moment. I should've just tore all the battery connections apart from the start. Good news is I learned a lot about the boat the past two days. I also found some lighting connections that looked poor so I redid them. Thank you for all your help. I seriously wouldn't have gotten it without chasing down the wires and connections you pointed me towards.

Depending on your actuator style, you likely need one of these two lockouts. However, you can also jack up the wheels and give them a spin. You should feel some friction due to the weight of the rotating assembly but not dragging. For ease of diag, I’d do that, then remove the caliper from the axle and see if the hub still turns the same. UFP brake lockout tools

In case anyone is wondering, 43mph seems the top speed in a T220 with m6 and a standard 2257 (iirc the number) prop. Pretty much right where I expected it. The wake hull’s drag get exponential above 35 and even the LT4 doesn’t seem to add more than 7mph to this number (if it was available in a T220).

How do you "lock out the breaks at the actuator?" I know the breaks are engaged unless the tow vehicle is pulling at the hitch and moving the break piston forward - releasing the surge breaks. When you break, compressing the piston, it applies the breaks. I have tried sticking a screwdriver in the slot on the underside of the trailer tongue and pushing back or forth....seemed to make very little difference in what the breaks at each wheel were doing....so I know I am not doing something right.

Yep! Me to!

The LED light over the trash door is intermittent. I can see where the wires go to bullet connectors behind the cubby liner. The liner doesn’t have enough flex to pull the wire up. I think the liner needs to be removed. I don’t see any screws holding it in. The only thing that might be securing the liner in place appears to be the 2 speakers. Is that the case? Remove the speakers and the liner will fall out to change out the LED??

There could be damaged wires in the engine or boat wiring harness, an internal problem with the ECM, or you may want to re-check the engine relays and fuses. The switched ignition circuit must be powered for the ECM or CAN to function. If you can't hear the fuel pump prime for a few seconds or the electric throttle buzz when the emergency keyswitch is turned on, then you may have a problem with the ignition circuit or ECM. When I am trying to narrow down where an electrical problem that affects the CAN or causes a no-crank, I often use a separation harness and Diacom. A separation harness is a simple connector and wiring to allow a keyswitch to be connected directly to the 16‐pin engine harness. By separating the boat wiring from the engine wiring, it is easier to find where the issue may be. For example, if the engine cranks and starts when the engine harness is connected to a separation harness instead of to the boat harness, and if Diacom will also connect and read data from the engine ECM using the engine harness DLC, then the problem isn't in the engine electrical system and there must be a problem with the boat electrical system. We used to make the separation harness ourselves in Indmar training, but the same result can be achieved by jumping wires at the disconnected 16-pin engine harness connector. By backprobing and connecting Pin A red wire with a jumper to Pin J purple wire, the ignition circuit is turned on. To crank the engine, backprobe and briefly connect Pin A red wire to Pin S yellow wire. To stop the running engine, disconnect the Pin A and Pin J jumper. Never poke holes in the wires or insert probes directly into the connector pins. Backprobing prevents damage to the connector pins and wires. Be very careful, it is important not to touch or short the wrong wires.

Wheels and hubs should be warm but not burn your hand. If your hubs have been serviced and spindle nuts not overtightened, brake caliper sticking would be my first guess. I’ve checked this after having a hot wheel end by jacking up the offending wheel, removing the tire, then attempting to spin the hub, then compare after removing the caliper. If the hub spins freely, then use a large channel locks to try pushing the piston back in the caliper once you remove the pads. You can also try locking out the brakes at the actuator and road testing for a few minutes. If the wheels are still overheating, loosen the bleeder screw on the hot wheel end brake caliper and see if you get fluid shooting out. Repeat the drive with and see if it still gets hot. If so, then it is hanging up at that wheel end, not the brake actuator or hose.

This is what I saw on etrailer.com Question: Ive been running your red grease in my 3500# Dexter axles with electric brakes on my 16 ft tandem axle trailer. I decided to check the hub temperature on my last trip with a load. After 2 hours the temp was 115-125 deg F. After 4 hours it was up to 150-160 deg F. Is this normal? The return trip unloaded showed about the same. Ambient was in the low 90s. The temps are pretty close on all four hubs. asked by: Bill H Expert Reply: Yes, the temperatures you mentioned are normal. If you were getting over 200 degrees that would be a bad sign. But typically if all of the hubs are the same temperature you're good and it's only really an issue if one of the hubs is hotter than others.