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New ones are pricey

Well, what I thought would be a pretty inexpensive (like under $100 parts and similar labor) fix was a pipe dream. A total redo of both axles: New bearings, new races, new seals, new brake assemblies, grease the bearings and bleed the surge brake lines (only $15 for brake fluid and grease; 2.1 total labor hours) and tax included, $716.49 later, she's ready to roll. No bearing Buddies as requested, however, which means I'll want to do that before dunking warm hubs. As I'm not doing that part (my son's working with the delivery guy), I don't know when it's actually expected, but we'll want a bimini pretty quickly; still waiting on someone's measurement of the gunwale flat part behind the windshield so I know the spread on the bimini bows. Mulling how to minimize the intrusion in the side entry locations for where to attach the bimini. Anyone have no-tower bimini installations they find effective to share? Bimini vendors suggest minimum deck-to-cloth clearance 72" which I find surprising given that my huge cockpit in my very-much-larger/wider sailboat had little more than that height, and we had to walk through the cockpit on the way down the companionway. The higher it is the less likely the strap/cable from the Skylon would clear the front of it, too... Thanks for any intel I can gain...

OK Thanks, Not much to mount to down there, that's for sure. I'm only putting in a 2 port heater so that will help for sure. Thanks

you can buy a new paddle wheel but it would be better if you got Nautic Laugic - it's 300.00 but will convert your paddlewheel to GPS accuracy. There is one calibration you need to do for the speed but that is about it. The only other option is to get a new PP system and that would be more like 900.00 for new module and display.

The hardest thing about retrofitting back to the old oil bath system would be to find hubs with the oil fill hole. They seem to have been discontinued.

The "Gimmie Constituency" continues to vote for more handouts, so we not only have to finish swallowing the $3T+ spending, but the "Inflation Relief" spending as well. Inflation is directly tied to dilution of the dollar through expanding the money supply. Nobody notices because it takes years to work through the system, so the politicians get to blame everything but themselves for causing it. Meanwhile, we keep voting for handouts and complaining that everything is more expensive....

How broken is it? It may be far cheaper and easier to just repair yours with some fiberglass and resin.

Remove the floor kick panel and mount the heater as low in the pit as you can get it. You may be able to move the steering cable a bit if you need to. The second page of @dalt1's thread above has a photo of his.

I had a failed tach as well and upgraded to the stargazer. Imho it’s worth it. Far better speed control and easier to use. Also shows rpm and speed at all times.

Going to be a rough few years to level out the past few crazy years.. on the other hand there may be some deals to be had with the Tommy's situation and or other dealers trying to break even on something here and there over the next year or two.. After that though new units will continue to rise in price as raw materials, commodities and labor cost continue to rise and inflation stay stubborn.. You’re going to start seeing more budget lines created and or stripping of options to keep the base price increases"appear" down over the next few years... Tariffs hikes when implemented (likely) will cause EVERYTHING to soar quickly. As import costs soar don't forget domestic prices follow exactly in line, basically consumers just pay more. In short boat prices in a few years will level off at further higher prices and values will continue to rise against a sliding dollars purchasing power. Essentially we have to inflate things away although the marine market especially is waking up to a MASSIVE hangover right now from that crazy partywe just had!

Has it hit bottom yet, probably not. But I think it would be wise to get out of the doomsday mindset. The industry fluctuates, it always has. Nothing bad about that, unless you are trying to buy or sell at that exact moment. This environment is no different than stocks. If you buy high, you hold onto it a little longer to let the market catch up or you just dump it at a loss. If you buy low, you have a chance to sell your boat in a higher market, but you'll also be buying the replacement in the same market most likely, unless you are taking a break from it. I usually try to flip more frequently based on my situation with the folks I work with. Haven't had a lot of interest on mine with the interest rates what they are, so I'll hold it another year. This is the most amazing Malibu they've put out in my mind. Performance, handling, rough water handling, etc. It will move. Was holding onto it my plan? No. Will it work out ok? I'm sure it will.

@uk_exile yep, my PP worked fine but the analog tach was dead from the time I bought it. :-)

Thanks! So, the Z is parsed. I wonder if there's a similar list for the other portions... And the AWRx series would make the HIN 3 characters longer, a curiosity...

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TWDS7rR1WKB4WPgpWdCRppCR4HIRNurQ/view

I was hopeful - turns out they're the same thread. Hopeful, because it started as though it were similar to the organization of the Morgan 46 (and other Morgan sailcraft) HINs. However, my MB2 being Malibu makes sense, but the Z, if those respondents were correct, wouldn't be a Sunscape, as their HIN had one cited as a Sunsetter (I think I recall - but in any event not a Sunscape, and in neither case a model line designating the boat length as part of the model designation - in the M46x, the two were 25 and 27 for 461 and 462, and the hull sequence number was next - mine was MRY25002, e.g). The letter codes were the same; "A" started the model year, which meant that the A-F in that slot were boats built in the calendar year before the model year. However, from that thread, it doesn't parse; in my line's case, there was a letter as mere placeholder next, then the year and month (79C meaning built summer 78). That was the USCG HIN; it was followed by a clarifier unrelated to registration, which in my case was '-461' appended at the end, ours being referred to in-house as a Morgan461, whereas retail called it a Moorings 46 (Moorings is a charter company; all the 461s were built to their spec). More research is needed ☺

No controller required with TRD. The supplied wiring harness adaptor deletes it :-)

I had one of those single line PP / tacho combos until last summer when I upgraded my system to the StarGazer version. By default with the PP turned Off the single line LCD reads speed and rpm, or at least it did on mine so I assume that's the default. @JDever if you do have one of those combo gauges and the tacho still works consider yourself lucky. They're prone to failing (like @EchelonMike's appears to be with rpm needle stuck). Mine was still operating and because of that I got decent money selling it (& the master module & paddlewheel) which contributed towards costs for the StarGazer upgrade kit. Nothing wrong with the pull it gave but the newer multi line display is much much more user friendly. Sadly you can't use multiline display on those version PP DigitalPro master modules (unless you're really lucky and it was rechipped to the 6.5ng version sometime)

@Rip6@36 this is a long shot but recently broke my silencer and it’s the exact same one you ordered years ago I seen you said you called Malibu CA but I can’t seem to find any of the same ones …

Um yeah getting worse by the day, wish I could share Data without getting someone sacked..

Only going UP

Nope, still banned on TeamTalk.

Ditto the person who said that your swim step shouldn't be submerged under water when idling or floating. Excessive rear weight might be your problem. I use PNP 550 and only have about 3/4 full. Wedge on 3 with 4 adults.

Just installing in the next day or two now the the weather is nice. Anyone have a picture or can tell me exactly where the heater mounts behind the helm? It's a s*** show in there! The wire is there and it all works from the dash so that's good. Thanks!

Does this mean they’ve also stopped their censorship?

That fluid should work. My experience with a Velvet Drive, trans will be smoother and quieter using hydraulic fluid, I use Mobil hydraulic fluid. One note - you can’t mix fluids.