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Already lots of good advice, but I'll throw a couple cents in. I have an '18 LSV and upgraded to this winch and I highly recommend it; the low gear is rarely needed, but sometime you have a shallow ramp and being able to crank it up is awesome: https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Winch/Fulton/F142418.html?feed=npn&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwsPCyBhD4ARIsAPaaRf3iiuKD_qlHSpaycDrylQB8xApVv5FcLGRczix0_BT00wJbZvV2eQgaAlmQEALw_wcB At a ramp with a reasonable slope, I put the most forward bow bunks about 1" under the water, hand walk the boat up till it catches and then crank the rest. Most of the time the stern isn't floating, but in the rare case that it is it's landed in the right spot every time (I've come out and double checked 50 times at least, but am always happy to see it locked in correctly). I may be in the minority, but power loading these is a bad idea and unnecessary... no handling at slow speed and they crank up no problem once you get rid of that undersized factory winch. Good luck, you'll figure out the quirks and be rock solid in no time. 10 years with a Malibu but no marital strife at the dock in at least the past 8 Edit: One other piece of advice that I haven't seen here yet... if you have a steep ramp and the a** end is going to be floating regardless of what you do, you can cut a piece of wood (wrap it in felt) the right distance from the hull to the guide post and someone can use it to hold the boat in the right spot as you pull out.

Ya I ended up liking #3 as well. I just missed it bc I figured the adjustment was in the wet sounds system and not the garmin unit. im not sure I care/need to adjust individual zones while driving — I’m sure that’s a safety issue. I cancelled zone 5 as I don’t have a second set of tower speakers and adjust the rest as desired (tower speakers loudest so surfer can hear music) and that seems good to go for 99% of my use

The bottom of the lower windshield frame has threaded studs with nuts on the underside of the deck. There are also screws at each lower windshield frame corner going into the deck from the top, and there are support posts screwed to the windshield near the bow walk-through. Loosening the nuts and removing the screws will make it possible to adjust the windshield position. There was service bulletin MY17.SB04.AUG09 for all 2016 Malibu 20/23/25 LSV boats which required inspection of the metal U-bar that supports the bow walk-through deck area. Some had to be shimmed and tightened to prevent windshield movement over time. Check with your dealer to see if it was performed or for more information about it.

TMC, I’ve figured it out. So main 80 amp fuse that feeds 12v distribution block for 3 amps was blown. I never checked it cause amps had power. Well, for some reason there was a factory 12v wire to one amp and it was on the same amp terminal as its main power wire. So that was fed from the ignition circuit and was also feeding power to all amps. This seemed very strange so I removed that 12v wire and replaced the fuse and all is good there now!! I’m disappointed the dealer service tech didn’t check the blown fuse though when it was in originally.

You can just stack a few small washers till the rivit head clears the lens. Stud on the rivit will still break at the back side.

While test driving I asked the sales rep about power/hydraulic steering, he said it did not. But was much easier to steer then my current '08 23 LSV.

Thanks. Very helpful. You have a beautiful boat.

I didn’t do 15, but I pulled my kid at 12-14 on a Zup and it held up fine.

Has anyone tested its 15mph rating? Or more?

Once you tighten the bolt and draw it into the wood, it won't back out if you take the nut off. Please, for the love of TMC, don't stack those nuts.

Understood, but never messed with the battery switch while engine was running.

So a bit more info on this... I took the seat back apart, but still don't have a solution on this. You can remove the molded plastic backing (with the cupholders molded into it) by removing the Phillips head screws from each side (4 x 2) as well as the 2 in the cupholders closest to the latching mechanism. That exposes the back of the seat, as well as the latching mechanism that allows the seat back to rotate/ lock into each position. Unfortunately, it didn't solve my problem. The back side of that connection is a captured nylock nut that had obviously worked it's way loose. Still need to figure out how to remove that round cap to access the other side of that bolted connection. Dealer is going to reach out to Malibu to determine how to remove - I will provide an update here once I figure it out.

Yeah, used it again today. Was double notification. Pretty annoying. I’ll probably message them.

Hey everyone, 2016 23 LSV. Have a question about the windshield frame that seems to have got off center some how. The port side frame where the windshield ends and meets the gunnel has separated away from the glass and hangs over the edge a tad. The frame seems to have a little flex but not sure how it’s mounted. Bought the boat earlier this year and didnt notice it before. Had it out on a couple rough days and I’m wondering if it got knocked off center with some rough waters. I will post pictures later for reference

@csleaver thank you so much for this information. This is exactly what I was looking for. I appreciate the help.

I see. You're saying to jam the screwdriver at the top at the head of the bolt. I don't own an impact wrench but I guess if I can't get it with the hammer/screwdriver approach, then I'll try that route. To your point about the regular nut, I agree it's probably not needed and see what you're saying now to use that to tighten the bolt and sink it into the wood a bit. I agree it's probably not needed but leaving it on might also keep some extra tension/pressure to keep that bolt in place when I put on the nylock nut? Anyways, I think I have enough ideas now to get this to work. Thanks! Duh, I'm an idiot. You're right. The plate from the trailer that the wood is sitting on is what comes in contact with the washer. The photo I sent recently was just a pic of what I have at home. I put the washers and nuts on to avoid losing them while I figured out what to do.

Can’t thank you enough for the information.

By the way, it seems to me that the washer and nut will always be against metal, not wood. Why does your photo show a washer against wood?

Countersink the top where the carriage head goes. Hit it with a hammer and punch to seat it. Jam a screwdriver in the hole against the head if you need more tension. On the other side, use a washer and nylock nut. Don't use the regular nuts except if you need to pull the bolt heads deeper first. They won't make the bolt heads spin like the nylock will, but you don't need them on the final product. As @Nick55 said, an impact wrench will allow you to just do the job without the hammer or extra tools.

The Rock river in Rockford. Lots of glass.

Here is a photo of an Indmar LS3 in a 2013 Supra and a photo of an LS3 crate engine. It looks like the same fitting has a plug covering the vacuum inlet in the photo. My understanding is the fitting is usually connected to the power brake booster in an automotive application.

I don’t have much to add here other than to say: the 2022+ 25 LSV is the most well rounded family boat in the lineup, imho. I had a 2022 but “upgraded” to a 26 LSV last year… didn’t like it, now back to 25…

Not sure I can jam a screwdriver in there if I'm using the washer? Based on how my last one rotted, I feel like that washer is going to be very important to so that the nuts don't just slip right through the hole of the wood once it softens and experiences a bit of rot. Also, I'm not quite sure I follow the idea of using the regular nut first? Couldn't I just hit the head of the bolt with a hammer to try and get the square shoulders to dig in to the wood before trying to tighten the nuts?

You will need to continue to press the down arrow button to reveal the Active Engine Faults and Inactive Engine Faults on the Setup menu.

You can jam a screwdriver in to tension the head if you need to. Since you have regular nuts also, just use those first to pull the bolt head in and then exchange them for the nylock nuts. No need to use both.