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The PPS sensor is usually part of the helm throttle lever controller for 2007 and can be replaced if you have determined that is causing the issue.

I agree with suspecting a vacuum leak. You can check for that with starting fluid. Spray it around the base of the throttle body and intake manifold to see if you get an RPM bump while the engine is idling. I would also suggest using a timing light to see if the timing is stable at idle. Sometimes the ignition control module under the distributor cap gets funky and can cause idle issues. You can also inspect the white paint dot on the top of the module. If it is yellow or brown, it has overheated. If you remove it, use plenty of thermal paste underneath to conduct the heat away.

"03 Monsoons have a software flaw called "Idle Flair". My engine does it when coming off throttle and last just a few seconds. There is an available $$ reflash for it, or you can just learn to work around it like we did.

I would clarify if the 500 hours is for your use or total on the engine. A lot of people do 100-150 a season so I’m not concerned about the 180 but that will eat into those 500 fast if you are going to use it a ton too. Axis doesn’t have as much margin as Malibu and 12% to 15% off msrp is generally considered average to good. (Yes, I know, people end up getting better but those are more outliers than the norm). So at 22% off msrp you are doing pretty good imo. There are other ways to get “money off” too. Maybe ask for Proshop credit, service, etc. If this is your first boat 2k in Proshop credit can go a long ways.

Grab a 1 1/16 socket, unscrew the nut while holding the prop. Slide prop off, grease splines, install new prop, tighten nut, bend tabs in. Takes a few min. Some motors need the prop removed to change lower unit oil, so it’s done a lot.

Thank you This definitely gives me direction. The pps is in the Morse throttle control correct? And it’s sold at Bakes

If it has an M6, the price is decent but not amazing. If M5, they need to come off a little more. Obviously other options factor into if the boat works for you.

a 1 yr old T250 at that price is competitive with Onlyinboards options - but this has the full warranty which is valuable and a nice security blanket. 180hrs is substantial use for a single season, but in grand scheme these motors should last like 1500-2000 hrs when maintained, so unless you are running a surf school, you are unlikely to touch those limits anyway. As a demo boat it means dealer was likely maintaining it properly too (and they took it through the initial break-in/gremlin period). if interior looks solid, options match your desire, and colors are fine, i'd go with it (vs maybe waiting / losing half the season hoping to find something a few k lower - hypothetically possible, but not guaranteed and you can't get the time back). good luck. edit: does it have an M6? an M5 in that boat could be a big regret...

The positive on the starter was a bit loose but I don’t think that was it. I’ll give it a shot tomorrow

Kinda meh. Depends if you love the colors and options. 180hrs is fairly substantial

Ok so thanks for all the help so far! This boat is new to me this season and I’m very hands on and kind of anal with things. This is a 2016 LsV with 410 engine. Ever since first trip out this year and new to me, I’ve noticed an interesting smell like what it smells like if you have ever waxed your own skis or snowboard. I couldn’t find anything overly hot in engine, coolant level good, engine temp good so I thought it’s normal for this boat. Now I’m noticing and maybe always has but now that it’s lightly warmer out that the engine has a white exhaust smoke that doesn’t appear to be cold weather steam. Had it out Saturday morning for 4 hours and it was there the whole time. I checked the oil while engine was cold and on lift for milky or bubbly oil, I found it seem significantly overfilled. Like a couple inches or more above the dipstick. Does this seem normal? What would it cause if overfilled? Maybe a separate issue but I mentioned in other thread, it sometimes takes several seconds for engine to fire when cranking. Maybe it’s a symptom of something here.

You guys ever try it out? I got that bleed through as well

I just received my new prop replacement for my 2018 125 horsepower 4 stroke Mercury outboard. Can't really tell the difference between this and the original. Does someone can share how to install prop on mercury outboard in an easy way? Some practical advice？ I couldn't wait to go boating in such hot summer.

Howdy so obviously I could google it but I was wondering if anyone out there has had a 93 echelon and replaced the steering cable .it's open bow so i believe it's the lx but it says for the lx it's a 16 ft cable but. Whe. I took the old one out it had 304411 204 5976. So I know the last 4 is the batch number and the 204 is inches and first number is like idk can't remember but so it says 204 inches thats 17 feet so what's the actual length I need .

You can Loctite if the nuts aren’t lock nuts. Assuming the hull isn’t compromised in the bed for the fin, I’d use 5200 to set the fin then bolt it while the 5200 is setting up.

An Acme 1235 would probably be a better choice for wakeboarding with extra ballast, assuming that the engine is running good.

It is much easier to do with two people, so when the cable gets stuck it can be pulled and pushed back and forth to free it up.

This probably won't help, but I turn the steering wheel to make the cable end as short as possible, remove the cable from the steering tube, remove the cable rack from the helm pinion, then put a vice grip on the cable rack gear so the cable can't extend while pulling on it. A rope/string is tied to the steering cable end eye and the cable/rope is pulled out from the helm side. The new cable end is pushed in to its shortest length and the rope at the helm is tied to the eye, vice grip is put on the new cable rack, and the rope is used to pull the cable back through the stringer from fore to aft. Try running a steel fish tape from the floor at the helm and through the stringer back towards the rudder. Use a hook to grab the fish tape from the aft hole in the stringer, attach a rope, and pull the fish tape and rope through to the helm. Use the rope to attach to the new cable for installation.

O I could have missed it in the Garmin, I was only looking for it in the wet sounds unit. another issue, my tower is very hard to push high enough to swing the supports under/out. It feels like it hits resistance and then I have to push harder than I should to get it tall enough (that last 1/4th and inch) to move the supports. Is there any adjustments to the tower or supports?

When an alarm occurs for fault SPN 65613 FMI 2 for a correlation error between the pedal position 1 and 2 sensors in the throttle lever control, the electric throttle body is commanded to idle only. This can be caused by faulty throttle control PPS sensors, a problem with the wiring or connections between the ECM and the position sensors, voltage drop in the circuit due to battery, connection issues, or any faulty 5 volt reference engine sensors also connected to the circuit. I would recommend first checking the battery condition and connections, the battery cable connections to the starter and engine block ground stud, and the engine harness PPS connection. Here is a link to the MEFI5 diagnostic manual. The fault code and troubleshooting guide is on page 5-152 to 5-154 (PDF page 230-232). https://www.bakesonline.com/media/resourcelibrary/Indmar_MEFI5-5Amanual.pdf

Blind use of a fish tape seems like your only option. What area of country are you in?

@justgary last run last year, and first run this year, I’ve had a high/surging idle. Boat runs excellent otherwise. And I had the intake and throttle body all apart over winter for other projects, and cleaned the throttle body/IAC/plenum thoroughly. So my first two thoughts were vacuum leak or IAC. I’ve got to do some snooping, and hook the computer up for clues yet, but wanted to track down the IAC number.

Checked and looks like i have a 381 13.5 x 17.5