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Hum confusing for sure. The gray ones i got from amazon where correct for many of the gray dongles on my harness the black ones as noted needed to be different and the b is for thermal interlock and water rating the key is black for those differences from what I read in the industry docs... but I could be wrong. the only reason I am point out the confusion is I ordered dt04-pb and got black non b keyed "" connectors... From what I can tell the style **** dictates the inener lock out groves or other mods and a b keyed item is a style of black keyed connector.... type of key can very in the style, as I said I actually bought b that came with the wrong lock out groves location and had to re order pb with a new sub style. This link will get you to the b "" keyed in the Same key as the one on the stereo harness you will need two 8 and two 12 https://www.customconnectorkits.com/products/dt04-12pb?variant=45536276382014 Thanks again for the clarity and help. Not sure why some b have groves in one location and others have what people call b keyed and have as noted the location needed for our black connectors.

I used the black edition https://carzilla.ca/a/s/products/blackfire-pro-ceramic-paint-coating-black-edition-50ml

I use the tower for tubing with my 23lsv. In my experience the tubes have a tendency to swamp at low speeds while being pulled behind ski pylon or transom. Adults will usually adjust their position on the tube to compensate but lots of times kids end up losing their grip when it goes down at low speed. Also with big kids and adults, it’s more fun because they get more air and I generally feel like the angle gives me more control to swing them around as well as swing them back to the safety of the middle of the wake. Also no real difference as far as tubing goes. Honestly the 2017+ mxz and lsv’s are going to perform really closely with eachother in most surfing/wakeboarding/ski mediums. It really comes down to preferred aesthetics, and extra bow space vs extra helm-back space.

The Blackfire product looks interesting. Did you use the standard pro, or the Black Edition? Thanks!

I wouldn’t pull a tube from the tower. On our MXZ, we pulled our tube from the bar on the transom.

I have narrowed my search down to the 2019 23LSV or the 2019 24MXZ, and I am looking for input. I would really like to be able to take my kids tubing. The LSV has a pole that comes up for attaching a rope, whereas the only place I could find on the 24MXZ was the tower. Is it okay to tube or waterski off the tower? Is there any benefit to the LSV over the MXZ? The family loved the extra space up front.

Good looking boat. Congratulations!

Thanks for the initial report @carnold12! Love to hear that. My 2024 23 LSV is on a truck to my dealer right now, I'll be sure to weigh in once I get some time behind it. Here's a pic my dealer shared of a 2024 23 LSV test ride he recently took:

No problem. Do a search and you'll find heap of info! It used to be simple process of do connector and earth check, resolder the Medallion, then if still failed, buy replacement MDC / MMDC. But now they're either unavailable or silly money. And the gauges themselves are aging and also silly money to replace. Hence why many of us opt for the easy to fit TRD kit, especially with their nice glass face which is so much better than OEM plastic gauge faces. You can get them with black bezel or stainless like I did. FYI I also opted to upgrade the original single line Perfect Pass/ tacho combo gauge with new StarGazer PerfectPass. So much easier to use.

Same color as mine!

You mind saying which location this was? Or DM me. Definitely a way better deal than they showed me, maybe I should counter around that level.

What caused it to get bent?

Or, you could upgrade it... on the cheap

I've been mulling it over all winter and I actually just started working on this project today. I'll post updates here to log my work. Today, I worked on pulling off the existing foot pad with a crowbar. I left a few scratches behind but this will all get covered up when I put a new pad on. This step was a little bit tedious but it wasn't as tough as I thought and the residual adhesive was minimal. With a little bit of Goo Gone and a drywall knife, I was able to clean things up like new. The next step is to to build backing material between the existing bracket mount and the edge of the platform since the bracket locations on my hull are wider. I don't have the supplies for this yet so I probably won't post an update for a while. I am thinking I will get marine plywood or HDPE board. I think this will be the trickiest part especially to ensure the platform is "balanced" on the brackets before drilling the holes through the platform. Even with attaching the brackets onto the boat and then resting the platform onto of the brackets, I can see how balancing it properly will be essential because if the weight is not distributed correctly, there is too much friction on the brackets. The implications of this is that although I can probably get it installed I may never be able to remove the platform! Might be more of an art than a science, will post an update when I have one.

I have been told ceramic is completely fine to use on cool touch vinyl. Still be cautious and ask around first.

I used Black fire pro ceramic in the start of the 2022 season. Seemed like the closest product I could find to a professional grade coating, took some time to apply but it flashed nicely and wasn't overly hard. Since then it has held up amazingly well, my boat is outside from March to November, and used in hard water, so it defintlyisn't babied. The only product I have used on it in the last 2 years is Boat bling hot sauce and it still looks great, you can tell it is starting to wear down but still very noticeable that it's coated. My previous boat had ceramic pro professionally installed and it was good but I definitely not any better considering the hype and cost of the product.

Looks real nice. Congrats !

I am also curious to know what other ceramic sealants there are.

Learned that Malibu is well aware of the demand for a quick disconnect and working on it. Will likely rollout with the 2025 models. If anyone is interested, I will post an update when I see what they are supporting.

Nice!

The "B" key that @Brandonloos21 referred to is the position of a tab on the housing. Only "B" keyed plugs mate with "B" keyed receptacles. It is very common for connectors to have a variety of key positions so that one family of connectors will work in a harness with many connectors. The different key positions keep someone from mating the wrong two connectors in the harness. Some manufacturers use housing color to help you to quickly find the correct connector to mate. Deutsch allows you to order non-standard colors, so "B" key may mean black to you, but it means "B" key to me. It would not be common to find a green "B" connector, but you can order them.

Ok thank you very much Ok thanks for all the info

Here she is! https://ibb.co/5TPXTgk

Just checked the supercharged LT4 compression test specs since I was curious. For that engine it is a minimum of 100psi and a 70% difference.