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Yeah that is my plan. Have an appointment with them for next Thurs. Hopefully it's not too long of a turnaround once they have the boat.

Unfortunately prety common on thesetrailers. Let the dealer look at it and hopefully they warranty it being such low miles.

Resurrecting this thread. Got my boat out of storage recently and have towed about 100 miles since. Noticed one of of Vault hubs caked in grease on the front. Don't see anything in the rear. Called the dealer and they are going to look at it in a week but wondering if it can be serviced anyway on my own. Pretty disappointing as the boat is a 2022 (took delivery Oct 2021) and I barely tow. I would think I have under 1000 miles on this trailer/tires since buying new. What do you all think? Did it fail premature or is this just normal? Pics below.

Its the dealers insurance that dictates loaner boats. I know we didnt offer it because of insurance.

OK, I took a video and posted to You Tube Let's see if this works.... The wheels spin pretty good and there doesn't seem to be much play with them. There is a "sandpaper" sounds which I imagine is the break pads slightly rubbing on the rotor? The clinky sound I think is that plastic hub thing in the center which is generally a bit loose.

Really!?!?! That's not consistent across Tommy's dealerships. I asked for a boat when mine was down and was declined every time. And here I sit.........without my boat.

Since I just read about Mastercraft on this thread, it reminded me of the recent Mastercraft earnings call: Fred Brightbill: Thank you, Tim, and good morning, everyone. We delivered results ahead of our expectations in what remains a dynamic and challenging environment for the marine industry. We'll dive into the details shortly, but let me first begin by sharing how pleased I am to be here on my first earnings call as CEO of MasterCraft. My first 6 weeks with our team has been energizing, and it's clear to me that our capabilities and opportunities are even greater than I anticipated. Since I joined the company, I've been on the road meeting with and getting to know our team, our customers, dealers and business partners. And thanks to the openness and preparation of our strong and experienced team, I have learned a great deal in this short time. . . . Recently, news that a competitor's largest dealer is in financial distress has heightened this competitive pressure with the potential for higher than normal competitor discounting. Although we made continued progress during the quarter, dealer inventories across the industry including our brands remain higher than optimal. Elevated inventory levels are driving higher carrying costs for dealers. This combined with competitor dealer disruptions is causing dealers to approach ordering with extreme caution. We remain committed to reducing our dealer inventory by the end of the fiscal year to best position the company for a return to growth. Moving forward, we have clearly decline set of capital allocation priorities that we will continue to execute on, including investing in innovation for our customers and sustainable growth for our shareholders. . . .

Do you know the part # or where I can find one of these chrome pieces? I lost the starboard l side. Thanks.

You're not supposed to put the boat in gear, out of the water, unless the cutlass bearing is lubricated. It will ruin the cutlass bearing if ran too long.

Not to mention the whole - most folks are gonna find a problem on the weekend thing.

I would say the overwhelming majority of boat owners have kids, and I’m not discounting your situation, just speaking from my experience I waste less time doing things myself vs hitching up the boat and driving it 1hr+ out to the dealer. Only to have them wear shop shoes on the interior surfaces and leave stainless nuts and bolts in cup holders. Should you half too, absolutely not, but knowing how these things are put together and operate has saved myself or given me the knowledge to help a friend when they have a problem.

The pre-catalyst O2 sensors have 4 wires and are located on the ETX exhaust manifold (don't mess with those wires), but the post catalyst temperature sensors have 2 wires and are located on the stainless down pipe between the exhaust manifold and the rubber exhaust hose. Here are some links with instructions to wire a 470 ohm resistor in place of the post catalyst exhaust temperature sensor at the stainless down pipe: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/s8h7ijg9zixjcrc5tvh31/post-cat-temp-470-ohm-resistor-install.pdf?rlkey=wnymhd4s269o0tseuw3on7ovr&dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/alg8p1hcj40b0bxs7p8em/Post-Cat-Resistor-Install.pdf?rlkey=3q5vy3i5v1nxxltzwepsoudxx&dl=0

In the case of buying from Tommy's, at least when I bought mine last year, they have what they call "Always on the water". If your boat has a mechanical issue and is in service they provide a boat to keep you on the water while yours is getting repaired. It is good through your first year of ownership. Not sure it applies anymore, for sure not at the closed stores, but I even have to wonder at the ones that remain open?

I understand this point. However, when it comes to routine maintenance, I'm doing all of that myself for purposes of expediency and cost. What the dealer wants to change fluids is absurd and it doesn't cost much to do and I already have a DC bucket pump, so I do it all myself.

Thanks Gary... You guys happen to know which of the wires have to be soldered trough the transistor? I have 2 black, 1 blue, 1 white. Thanks JC

I just purchased this Sunscape last fall. When I took it to Lake test after I purchased it I found out that the perfect pass only works tach not on speed. I contacted perfect pass and they said my transducer had failed. They said that the type that I have must be a Malibu installed version. Is there anywhere that I can pick up that type of transducer so I don't have to upgrade my whole system. I went to the Malibu dealer locally and they were of no help

While I agree with the last statement, I shouldn't have to on a brand new boat. I could have saved over $40,000 buying used if I wanted to do that. I would spend every winter working on my last boat from personally adding surf tabs to doing hard lined ballast, adding all kinds of lights and redoing the stereo multiple times. However, now I have a kid and don't have the time to do these kinds of things nor do I want to on my brand new boat. Also, there's not much I can do when the computer system isn't working properly, I don't care how hands on you are.

Any idea where either of those manuals can be downloaded from?

12v/470 Ohms = 0.025 Amps. 0.025A^2*470Ohms = 0.31 Watt, so go with a 1/2 Watt resistor.

The cutlass bearing is in the strut under the boat, just in front of the prop. You could also splash a few drops of water on the shaft log inside the boat, just where the shaft disappears through the hull.

Thanks so much @csleaver, great info... For the 470 ohm resistor, which amperage works? As for wiring the o2 sensors have 4 wires in them 2 black 1 blue and 1 white... am I looking at the right sensor?

Hey Chill450f, I was not able to find an original or anything else that would work. I searched high and low too. Would like to hear if someone else has a solution to solve this unavailable sensor problem. I’m sure one day I will need it. Mine ended up being installed incorrectly by the Malibu dealer after they repaired the wedge actuators. Luckily I was able to fix it and recalibrate it. Justin

Was anyone able to adapt a sensor for this to work with the Maliview? My sensor is toast. The novotecnik sensor is a hall effects sensor. It may work if you could figure out how to adapt it to the pivot on the wedge. Just wondering if anyone has successfully done this yet? Trying to find a solution.

I will check and let you know. It will be a couple of days.

Thank you, @justgary. Is the cutlass bearing inside the boat leading out? Forgive my ignorance. I appreciate the help!