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You have a point. It seems you could save about 21,837.41 Dominican Pesos on the one in your link from AliExpress. Let me know how it works.

It was, but the hull ID had a different designation too. It was S vs G for the sunscape 23 lsv.

Thanks for the bounce on that - but our pole is astern, being a Vdrive. However, your point is taken about a slot; we had that on our conestoga-wagon-look full-length cover/shade (ShadeTree brand) for the sailboat and its backstay astern and the inner stay forward. We'll have to rig it before designing; I'm guessing, with the nature of the bimini vs the ShadeTree (which used flexible fiberglass wands like a pop tent for camping) that it would be a velcro'd slot through which the line was passed during setup. Still looking for ideas/examples on the bimini itself, and hoping to not have the straps or pole-solids (a pole section could be vertical rather than the strap on an angle, further back attachment) astern be in the way of entry from the dock/sides... And, of course, the higher the space under the bimini the further intruding into the strap line path the bimini would be... (I have to quit thinking like a cruiser; this won't be a transportation vessel, and the bimini won't primarily be for keeping the weather out! ☺)

Wasn't Wakesetter just a package on pretty much anything at the time?

I believe the raptor engines were the ones with different O2 sensors precat vs postcat. Definitely swap them around before you start replacing them because most of the time there’s something else going on to cause them to send the O2 sensor codes.

the price is a "bit" steep....

This is a perfect example of why TMC is the most valuable wake boat resource on the internet. 👏

This is what I would recommend. https://www.nauticlaugic.com/NL2_2024a_Packages.html

Hi, anybody moved the Medallion II Series speedo to use a universal GPS Speed Sender such as: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006494652580.html?src=google&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=631-313-3945&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&albagn=888888&isSmbActive=false&isSmbAutoCall=false&needSmbHouyi=false&albcp=20225808915&albag=&trgt=&crea=en1005006494652580&netw=x&device=c&albpg=&albpd=en1005006494652580&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3ZayBhDRARIsAPWzx8op8WIUjciX99q9s5drkaE2H-ADdFc45WzXemMt_0-7UBlPyclJHIMaAkX8EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&aff_fcid=d09844e782ee4823a34527831c457644-1715874777141-09926-UneMJZVf&aff_fsk=UneMJZVf&aff_platform=aaf&sk=UneMJZVf&aff_trace_key=d09844e782ee4823a34527831c457644-1715874777141-09926-UneMJZVf&terminal_id=db077fc82ec7456281b8543deb5ea0bc&afSmartRedirect=y any pointer or success? thanx Mart

You may also find the coast guard tag doesn't match the full model of the boat. On our 02 23 LSV wakesetter, the coastguard tag said it was a sunscape. Didn't matter to anyone, just a curiosity.

I went back and forth on this topic when I refreshed my trailer. I have the oil bath hubs and actually, I like them. Reason being is they don’t fling grease like my old trailer, and it’s an easy pretrip inspection using the sight glass caps. The downside is I had to drill and extract the fill plugs the first time. You would want to use thread sealer on them to prevent seizing and if you don’t see leaks, you know the fluid is still in there. I don’t see why a decent hands on person couldn’t drill and tap the existing hubs and install an NPT plug themselves and I can guarantee a machine shop could do it. Bearings would be the same, but you’d want to make sure you have double lip seals on the back side and use permatex on the caps as the UPF service documents indicated.

Ski partners of ours have a Tantrum with a skylon (or flyhigh) pole. Their bimini has a zipper and hole in it, almost identical in set up to the way the bimini is on our wakesetter. Their bimini is not walk under height, as it is really only to give a little shade to the driver and spotter. In theory, you should be able to modify a bimini to allow the front brace to pass through it, via a re-inforced slot, or a zippered opening. something like what is seen here. https://www.planetnautique.com/vb5/forum/nautique-topics/general-nautique-discussion/24966-10-foot-pole-on-a-97-snob I would think a canvas shop should be able to do this pretty easily.

Well the min height is likely based on your (MN) average 6ft tall person wanting to walk under it That being said - pretty sure the bimini on my inlaws Nautique 200 is a lot lower than that

the gauge still works and it is the combo unit in the picture. the pp works on rpm but doesn't show speed at all. I haven't heard of Nautic laugic. I will have to look into that. sounds like it's relatively plug and play.

New ones are pricey

Well, what I thought would be a pretty inexpensive (like under $100 parts and similar labor) fix was a pipe dream. A total redo of both axles: New bearings, new races, new seals, new brake assemblies, grease the bearings and bleed the surge brake lines (only $15 for brake fluid and grease; 2.1 total labor hours) and tax included, $716.49 later, she's ready to roll. No bearing Buddies as requested, however, which means I'll want to do that before dunking warm hubs. As I'm not doing that part (my son's working with the delivery guy), I don't know when it's actually expected, but we'll want a bimini pretty quickly; still waiting on someone's measurement of the gunwale flat part behind the windshield so I know the spread on the bimini bows. Mulling how to minimize the intrusion in the side entry locations for where to attach the bimini. Anyone have no-tower bimini installations they find effective to share? Bimini vendors suggest minimum deck-to-cloth clearance 72" which I find surprising given that my huge cockpit in my very-much-larger/wider sailboat had little more than that height, and we had to walk through the cockpit on the way down the companionway. The higher it is the less likely the strap/cable from the Skylon would clear the front of it, too... Thanks for any intel I can gain...

OK Thanks, Not much to mount to down there, that's for sure. I'm only putting in a 2 port heater so that will help for sure. Thanks

you can buy a new paddle wheel but it would be better if you got Nautic Laugic - it's 300.00 but will convert your paddlewheel to GPS accuracy. There is one calibration you need to do for the speed but that is about it. The only other option is to get a new PP system and that would be more like 900.00 for new module and display.

The hardest thing about retrofitting back to the old oil bath system would be to find hubs with the oil fill hole. They seem to have been discontinued.

The "Gimmie Constituency" continues to vote for more handouts, so we not only have to finish swallowing the $3T+ spending, but the "Inflation Relief" spending as well. Inflation is directly tied to dilution of the dollar through expanding the money supply. Nobody notices because it takes years to work through the system, so the politicians get to blame everything but themselves for causing it. Meanwhile, we keep voting for handouts and complaining that everything is more expensive....

How broken is it? It may be far cheaper and easier to just repair yours with some fiberglass and resin.

Remove the floor kick panel and mount the heater as low in the pit as you can get it. You may be able to move the steering cable a bit if you need to. The second page of @dalt1's thread above has a photo of his.

I had a failed tach as well and upgraded to the stargazer. Imho it’s worth it. Far better speed control and easier to use. Also shows rpm and speed at all times.

Going to be a rough few years to level out the past few crazy years.. on the other hand there may be some deals to be had with the Tommy's situation and or other dealers trying to break even on something here and there over the next year or two.. After that though new units will continue to rise in price as raw materials, commodities and labor cost continue to rise and inflation stay stubborn.. You’re going to start seeing more budget lines created and or stripping of options to keep the base price increases"appear" down over the next few years... Tariffs hikes when implemented (likely) will cause EVERYTHING to soar quickly. As import costs soar don't forget domestic prices follow exactly in line, basically consumers just pay more. In short boat prices in a few years will level off at further higher prices and values will continue to rise against a sliding dollars purchasing power. Essentially we have to inflate things away although the marine market especially is waking up to a MASSIVE hangover right now from that crazy partywe just had!

Has it hit bottom yet, probably not. But I think it would be wise to get out of the doomsday mindset. The industry fluctuates, it always has. Nothing bad about that, unless you are trying to buy or sell at that exact moment. This environment is no different than stocks. If you buy high, you hold onto it a little longer to let the market catch up or you just dump it at a loss. If you buy low, you have a chance to sell your boat in a higher market, but you'll also be buying the replacement in the same market most likely, unless you are taking a break from it. I usually try to flip more frequently based on my situation with the folks I work with. Haven't had a lot of interest on mine with the interest rates what they are, so I'll hold it another year. This is the most amazing Malibu they've put out in my mind. Performance, handling, rough water handling, etc. It will move. Was holding onto it my plan? No. Will it work out ok? I'm sure it will.