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I just bought a lake house that has a Econolift 6500 LB boat lift, but it was setup for a pontoon boat. I want to set it up for my 2006 Wakesetter 247. Looking to get a bunk layout and specs. The trailer I have is a DHM trailer and they are out business, so really looking for measurements and layout that I can use to plan the bunk layout on the lift.

Well done! I do 100/year. 316 is a whole new level.

I replaced the plate after hearing some clanking. Some of it is gone but the V-Drive sounds like it's knocking when first put into gear. Once it's revved up, it clears up. Any ideas?

Great photo !!

That’s how it’s done! Impressive!

Pretty impressive.

Got the boat one year ago today, and we got 316.5 hours tonight after surfing, getting caught in the rain, and surfing some more. It's been a blast!

The original transmission temperature switch used in 2010 is a 5v pull-up, normally closed circuit and the switch opened when the trans temp is above 195 deg F for the ECM to set an alarm. The newer replacement trans temp switches from Indmar open at 240 deg F. It is important to use the Indmar 885191 replacement part. They will also cause an alarm if the switch is disconnected. The engine harness connector for the temp switch sensor has a tan/black wire that goes to ECM pin 29 for the reference signal, and a grey/white wire that goes to ECM pin 66 for the 5v return analog ground. There are several other sensors that share the ECM pin 66 circuit that could affect each other if shorted, like all 4 of the O2 sensors, the oil pressure sensor, and the pedal position (throttle lever) sensor. ECM pin 2 and pin 3 are tied internally to the same circuit and connect to the crank and cam position sensors, electric throttle body control, MAP sensor, and the engine coolant temperature sensor. I would check the wires and female connection pins in the engine harness for the trans temp switch to make sure they aren't damaged, worn, or corroded preventing a good connection. Also, check the battery condition and connections, the engine block ground cable connection, and the starter cable connections to rule out a voltage drop issue.

FYI here's what I did on my new boat. I wanted the ability to remove the velcro strap from the hanger to make it a little easier. I drilled out the center of some SS command hooks to pass the bolt thru. I found the command hooks and velcro strap at home depot.

Been a long time ago for my 06 VLX but think it did the same thing. Found loose connector and zip tied them together to fix. Get under there while running and wiggle all the plug connections you can to see if you can find it,

Thanks for the help! The issue I have is an intermittent loss of the speedometer and tachometer. It usually happens after going over some waves at a higher rate of speed. The dash flashes a message (I can't remember off hand what it says, I haven't had it on the water since last year.) and then the speedo and tach drop to zero. The boat maintains the same speed and can operate normally just with nothing registering on the dash and no cruise control. If you cycle the key off and start it back up the dash returns to normal operation. The problem seems to happen usually when pulling a skier. Typically, immediately after crossing my own waves. The boat had been into the Malibu dealer in my area a number of years ago for the same problem and they said they replaced the 5-inch display. This fixed the problem for a while but it returned in the last year or two. I think it must be a loose connection somewhere that just momentarily loses communication with the dash when there is a bump. That's why I've been trying to find service information on the boat.

Stainless will be fine just don't over torque them.

Two of the 4 impeller screws were missing when I went to replace my impeller the other day. A little searching and testing proves that the screws are M5x0.8x8mm long. 10mm long works btw. Nothing longer. Bakesonline.com say’s not to use stainless steel screws due to the Johnson pump housing threads being made of brass which is soft. I called Bake’s and the nice lady in the parts department said that some of their tech’s prefer stainless screws and that they sell them. Is the Johnson pump housing threads made of brass or bronze? Any input on using replacement brass or stainless screws? Thanks!

If you think it is all OEM, bypass the breaker with the same rating fuse in a holder and give it the everything on test. If it doesn't blow, consider replacing the breaker.

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Thanks for all of the info. Is there a chance it's also a simple calibration issue? The shop I used said that shouldn't affect it but I'd have to imagine since there's a calibration button it's worth a shot.

My 2010 Malibu LSV20 is generating “Trans over temp” alerts that appear to be false alarms, as the trans is not heating up and seems to be working fine. We replaced the sensor on the top of the trans and still get the alert. We then disconnected the sensor altogether, and we STILL get the alert. Anyone have any ideas, and/or a wiring diagram for this boat so we can try to track down or isolate? At this time, we believe the problem might be in the wiring between the connector to the sensor and the dashboard display, as the wires coming out of the connector to the sensor seem to be routed to the throttle control box and not to the ECU. Any ideas help (. Or wiring diagrams) are appreciated.

There are two screw terminals on the power module under the helm labeled power wedge (black) with a black wire, and power wedge (white) with a white wire (see previous photo). You can switch those wires to make the power wedge move opposite of the way you are controlling it with the MUX. Using a voltmeter to test the voltage and ground on those terminals when running the wedge up or down can also help determine what the problem may be. Please don't overlook the other suggestions. The most common issues I've seen after actuator replacement is loose electrical connections, the wedge wing binding, or the power wedge adjustment bracket not being properly adjusted for the actuators.

... and that means that if it is really a straight pipe thread, it should be 1.5" pipe. That would also make it actually 11.5 TPI. Hard to measure the cap with the huge flange and all. Edit: I just compared it to a pipe thread, and it looks like 11 TPI rather than the 11.5 that pipe thread is supposed to be. Total diameter is 3.5" and it is 1" thick, by the way.

If it looks like this, the thread seems to be 1.85" x 11 TPI.

For 2018 21VLX the PN is 5411052.1. Just picked up my replacement from Tommy’s.

Csleaver, thank you so much for the in depth reply. Batteries are new and all connections are tight. I just checked and Auto Wedge was on. I wonder if the shop even noticed this when they tested the wedge? They just told me the actuators we installed with the wedge in the down position and they could not get it to raise using the MUX switches. I am not beginning to wonder if I should put it in the water and run the wedge down and then try calibrating. My only concern is if the wedge will not raise back up. How do you swap the power connections to "fool" the wedge? I may have to do this if it will not calibrate and raise.

The footing is good, but man that xylophone player has it dialed in! What an amazing amount of glass too, that's beautiful.

hips back on onside pull means flat ski means launch. Yep. Hips up, soft knees, and it'll be less noticable. But as @jjackkrash said, she needs a DD. With as much rope as she has out, I'd suggest a Stargazer and ZBox boat would be fine if a dedicated ZO boat isn't in the cards. I'm a 22 and 28 off course skier and don't notice a difference between ZBox and ZO while I'm out chasing buoys. The boat @Slayer mentioned would be an excellent choice, as would any boat called "Response" after 1998. Nautique bubble back is also great but most of them have Ford 351s... yuck...