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Give this set-up a try. Wedge in lift, 28 mph, 15 off, rear tow point - not center pylon. Try bow ballast up to 50% (experiment here). Weight or ballast passenger side to level the boat at that speed/setup. That was the best wake my wife and I found (with just the driver in the boat). The wake looks a little big, but was very soft with that set-up and easy to ski. Unfortunately that was really the only set-up we found to be at all tolerable. We would have liked to have gone faster, but that doesn't work well in lift as the boat become unstable, and if we stowed to wedge it became too hard.

If you normally run "loaded down" then you still have the wrong prop.

I agree with the OP. I have commented on this before, but we found the VTX to be undriveable in the course. We did enjoy some free skiing behind it, but only within a very limited set of parameters (wedge in lift, 28 mph, 15 off, rear tow point - not center pylon). Sell the boat and get something more appropriate. We knew it was a compromise going in as we had skied behind one before purchase. We had hoped to ski and surf with it, but ultimately found that the ski-ability just wasn't worth it. It does surf quite well for it's size, but ultimately we traded for a dedicated surf boat (M220). I would still say the boat is a good "crossover" for someone who wants to do a bit of everything recreationally. The ski wake is certainly still better than your average 20ft Inboard/outboard runabout, but I think anyone who is a tournament level skier will be in for some disappointment.

The LS3 is an LS platform engine. The 383 is a gen 1 small block platform engine. The LS engines are better in every way IMO. They are lighter, more powerful, more efficient, better flowing cylinder heads, stronger internals, etc. That being said, I have a 2008 247 with the 383 and it runs like a top. It may be the best running small block I have ever owned. As far as hours, you can't really compare to mileage on a car. 680 for a 2010 isn't a crazy amount. If it has been well maintained it should have a lot of life left.

It going to take some set up per the ahopkins22LSV thread. I personally would never buy a v-drive for skiing, but I would also not claim it's unskiiable without doing my best to get the boat set up for skiing. (I have spent many, many hours dialing in my direct drive because all boats require some tuning for the best ski experience). Also, video of wake cross please. It's a V-drive so she's gonna need to be stacked and balanced with some soft knees crossing the wakes. If she's flat or unbalanced she's gonna bounce. (And lots of very good skiers could use some work here, especially when the wake isn't ideal).

Agree with other posts, if slalom is a primary activity a V drive is not a good choice. Your forums moderators post is your go to on getting your new purchase dialed in but I will add from your comments, it probably will take at least 34 mph to find a more acceptable wake. Physics is a hard thing to beat, transom weight always hurts a slalom wake. Your dealer offered good advice on how to achieve the best wake that boat can produce. Next to crossover in the dictionary is compromise, an unfortunate fact of life no matter what the item or subject.

Both are 6.2 liter small block Chevy engines with a larger bore and more crankshaft stroke than a stock 5.7 liter. Technically, the LS3 is about 377 cubic inches. A 0.040" overbore will take it to 383 cubic inches. I wouldn't expect much difference if the heads, cam, and intake are the same.

Are the keys electronically chipped?

Reviving this old thread, with the hope that someone may know where to buy a jump seat for a walkthrough. I have a 96 Echelon and am keeping my fingers crossed that there is either a place that sells them or someone that makes them thanks for the help! Paul

I have a 2016 22VLX and bought a used surfband. Used it once and water damaged the PCB but I don't think that was the first time it happened. I cleaned the board but I am missing a capacitor. Wondering if anyone can snap a pic of their PCB for the 2016 version of the surfband. This is the green cover without the volume control. See attached images. The capacitor is in the upper left corner but it rusted off with the cover identifying the capacitor values. I only see HY4000 on the can. Can someone please upload a pic of their board if you have one, much appreciated!!! https://photos.app.goo.gl/qgjDNPG4HAwEK6Kw6 https://photos.app.goo.gl/2pitFHXPUqe6EVpw8 Thank you, Ryan

I will add after I did all my Vaults, they were only warm to the touch. Didn't thermal gun them tho.

I think the second key working is a coincidence. I would check the key switch itself (contacts or wear), the neutral safety switch, etc. The physical key won't have an impact if the tumbler allows it to turn.

Does anyone have the vector file for graphic on a 2008 LSV?

Water is supposed to come out the exhaust manifolds - it is pumped in there to cool them. Water in a cylinder typically results in bent parts, not a wet spark plug. "Wet" spark plugs typically indicate over fueling or that the plugs are not firing.

Not planning to sell or buy but am looking forward to stories of the fire sale.

I am having a similar problem with my Supra indmar 340 engine, I believe it is the same as the older Malibu monsoon engines. When you say you where getting water in cylinder 7, how did you know and how much water? I am finding water coming out of the exhaust manifold as well as the spark plugs on cylinders 6 & 8 are wet. I have changed the exhaust manifold but the problem persists. I am thinking of getting a lead down test done but I am not sure where the problem is. The engine is a lake cooled and it seems to be running fine. I am also wondering if condensation would be enough to create this water vapour and wet spark plugs? I would appreciate any suggestions from the forum. Thanks,

Not as much as you'd think. It's just you running in 3rd gear instead of 5th gear, but with less throttle. It's definitely easier on the engine.

You may want to verify that the magnetic sensor bolt and stop nut for the wedge position sensor is tight. If the magnetic bolt under the sensor is loose and spins, then the sensor will not read the correct position.

If the transom exhaust outlets are leaking, then remove the clamp on the exhaust hose at the outlet, remove the flapper and outlet screws, remove the outlet and clean off the old sealant. If the outlets are burned or cracked, or the exhaust hoses are damaged, then replace them. Use a good below waterline marine sealant (like BoatLife LifeSeal or 3M 4200) on the mounting flange of the exhaust outlet and screws during re-installation. Tighten the exhaust hose clamp on the exhaust outlet and wait until the sealant cures (check instructions on sealant). Put the boat in the water, but don't take it off the trailer until you verify there are no leaks.

Is it a broken hose or something loose on the transom? It is probably time to replace all of your fuel and exhaust hoses. Heck, change the vent hose also.

I tend to run about five to ten gallons of fuel in my 21' Sunsetter LX direct drive, with a driver only whenever possible. One observer if we invite one more. If we go out with guests I don't put much effort into slalom, but I will pull them all they want. I'm not a course skier either, but I do know that the wake gets better with less weight in the boat (especially the rear).

What’s a tab?

My 2017 Axis A22 reads 13V on both batteries, fully charged. When I turn the key to acc, blower comes on, gauges light up, stereo comes on, but nothing when I turn key to start the boat. No click on the starter. I’ve cleaned terminals. Checked grounds. Checked voltage at ignition relay/starter relay behind alternator. I read 13V. I checked continuity on all fuses and they’re good… I tried my other key and the boat fired right up instantly…. WHAT AM I MISSING HERE?!?!?!? I used both sets of keys all last summer. I’m at a loss….

‘14 A24 - replaced sensor but still getting wedge down light. No codes. Any setting or trick I missed?