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Use good jumper cables and directly energize the starter from a known good battery.

You might consider a lower pitch prop.

The only other things I could think of is the wire from the relay to the starter solenoid, or the battery power and ground cables to the starter and engine block.

On the Ford Raptor engines, the battery ground cable attaches to the main engine ground stud on the starter mount. The ground for the aft interior lights and underwater lights, the rear ballast drain pump and shower, the blower, and the engine ground attach to the same stud. There is also another ground stud by the port exhaust manifold. The large 8-pin connector for the deck harness to the aft break harness on the transom are also connected to those circuits, so you may want to check that connector for corrosion or damaged/worn pins.

I purchased the 2007 Malibu Ballast Upgrade last fall for our VLX with 383 Hammerhead engine. When we just start really using it for wakeboarding this month, noticed that with one wakeboarding, driver and one passenger in front, the boat is taking quite a long time to get on plane. With all stock ballast full and probably around half of the two 800 pound piggyback bags. Now, it does seem last time out, like initially got on plane quicker, but the more we boarded it took longer to get on plane, at times getting to 13mph then fulll couple minutes to get up to 19mph or so. I wouldn’t think with just two total passengers and bags half to 2/3 full the boat would struggle with that engine. Any recommendations what i can look at?

Quick update, everything up to the starter relay has power. I also have power to pin 87 (yellow/red wire) when turning key, but no crank. This seems to point straight to the starter, so I’m going to start replacing that now. Any other things that could prevent it from cranking after the starter relay?

Is that small black circle the breaker you’re referring to, on the back side of the slave solenoid? I do have 12V on both posts of that solenoid

Technically their location on Gull Lake would be a little closer to me but I’m up in GR quite a bit more.

The starter should spin and engage when you jump it, but a loose/corroded battery cable to the starter or engine block ground could mimic a faulty starter. Also, check the boat to engine harness 16-pin connector for corrosion or worn/damaged pins and sockets. The breaker on the ECM can have a small resettable lever instead of a red button. In this photo you can see the breaker, fuse holder, ground stud, and the engine harness 16-pin connector ( the boat harness and ground cable are disconnected in this photo).

Is that your new dealer? There’s gonna be a big batch of new dealers released next week….

Try another mode such as tuner. If there are any wired remotes, unplug them from the Medallion Media unit.

Batteries weren’t disconnected, but I will check those as well. I have a NOCO permanently mounted in the boat and plug it in while in storage

I’ll get on those now! I did jump the starter, and it spun but did not engage. I also don’t have any spark coming from the coil. Voltage on small starter post is 0 when cranking, which led me to believe that something is preventing voltage prior to the starter. However, I do feel like the starter should be engaging as well shouldn’t it? I haven’t been able to locate any circuit breaker near the engine. That was recommended on a FB post as well, but I don’t see one anywhere.

If you disconnected the batteries during winterization, double extra check that your battery terminals are clean and TIGHT. (I had this "problem" before... once battery ground was tightened, all went back to normal) IIRC the fuel relay and starter relay are identical in the relay box, so you could swap them to eliminate a bad relay.

The few times I had trouble like that required a GOOD cleaning of the battery terminals and connectors, which looked clean already.

It's officially called the "Duralast electrical wire connector 217". Part # 217. sku# 342417. They refer to as a fuel pump sending unit connector. Lifetime warranty!

Thought I had kept up on this thread but guess I missed that one.

Sub floor ballast eliminates a ton of space. Get it a G and you'll notice. Not sure on the vinyl of the Centurion. They are a polarizing look that's for certain. And when I look at the dash, I think I am looking at dual screen PC set up.... @Txstojis right on the 'seadek.' The in house Bu stuff is far less than the name brand materials. The XT24 is a nice boat. It will be a decent step up in price from a 23 LSV or MXZ. You'll be able to get an equally equipped 25 LSV for less than the XT24.

for my scenario, the ramfill is actually a Con because i have a ~7min no-wake zone ride, so i can generally be close to full as soon as i'm in open water even in my 8-9min filling Axis. a neighbor bought a 2017 centurion with ramfill and we pump filled on way out of no-wake, and then once there needed to drive around for 2-3 min at 15mph to finish filling whereas normally, i'd just start surfing. with the fast pumps these days, ramfill time advantage is minimal and i think its a con to need to move - no filling while floating in a cove. And ramfill is only half the total ballast, still must wait for pumps to do their jobs. Sales guy once told me ramfill is an option on Centurions, if you custom order you can have pumps fill those tanks instead. i wrote up lots of observations thoughts in the 2024 Boat Show thread about my first and only visit to a Centurion dealership (during a serendipitous business trip). in general, they seemed pretty nice, definitely liked the Ri over the Fi. the Supremes were a step-down but save you $70K and were at least as good as an Axis build quality but each brand has quirks -- for centurions i noticed couple quirks i don't like such as the shallow storage, battery/stereo setups were awkward, and fact that if you turn off boat while ballast is full there's a fewminute countdown to auto-emptying the ballast (to avoid hydrolock upon re-start). so if you are full ballast and stop to swim for 10min, the ballast will auto-empty and you need to re-fill upon re-start (certainly not a catastrophe, but annoying). never heard anything bad about surf wave on their latest boats especially, but never ridden behind one and no dealers near me so not a likely option anyway

Unfortunately it’s Tommy’s. And they aren’t the most helpful on parts.

I have a 2018 23LSV. Blower is not working and rear ballast bags will not drain. Same issue being discussed. Fuses are good for all three. Blower works with 12 volts applied. So, it sounds like the ground issue. Can anyone explain where the ground is connected. I looked everywhere and don't see any grounds mot connected.

Yep, this was the announcement I referenced on Wednesday… two down, ten to go!

First time out these season, 2022 Malibu M220 50 hours - we powered on the radio & connected via bluetooth to the iphone - the displays show the song & I can skip tracks but cannot adjust the volume (up). Since the volume is stuck on minimum / “0,” theres no sound. Rotary dial and touch screen have no effect. Same in FM. Any troubleshooting ideas?

Just picked up a 2013 247 LSV. Boat ran fine with no issues until I got it home. Went to go throw it in the water and would just get a clicking sound from the starter. Tested the batteries and found one wasn’t holding a charge so ending up just swapping out both batteries since it’s a new to me boat. I had also pulled and tested the starter. During the bench test it would engage but would hardly spin. Ended up with a new starter as well. I can click the screen 5-6 times and it will fire and run with no issues. Once I shut it down it will repeat itself with the intermittent starting issues. If you jump the starter it will fire every time. I went ahead and threw a starter relay on it as well before the season to play it safe. I’ve checked over the battery cables and cleaned them up. Has anyone else had this issues? Any help is appreciated! Thank you in advance!

Anyone try anything different? The igloo is discontinued.