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Another thing that cause cause the problem you described is a "slow" actuator. Assuming all of the connections for the circuits are clean and tight, an internal failure of the surf gate actuator can prevent it from fully retracting in the allotted 9 seconds. If the actuator can't fully retract in one 9 second cycle, then there will be an alarm. There also needs to be at least 1/2" gap between the surfgate paddle and the swim platform when it is fully retracted. If the surfgate contacts the platform, it may prevent the actuator from retracting.

Maybe he was going to buy a Supra next year...

That's awful about your trailer! I can imagine how frustrating it must be to have it stolen. It's great that you've taken the necessary steps with the police and your insurance company. When it comes to finding a replacement, have you tried reaching out to local dealerships or checking online? Sometimes, you can find exactly what you're looking for through those channels. If not, maybe consider looking into trailers that are compatible with your boat's dimensions and weight.

I have often seen breakers with a broken cover or reset lever that still function normally. A faulty breaker would more likely prevent the surfgate actuator from moving, but I have seen loose connections on the breaker studs cause some problems. Loose connections on the port power distribution post or on the engine ground cables can also cause problems. The port surfgate actuator has two connectors inside the boat along the transom near the aft stringer access hole. There is a large connector with two 12 gauge red/blue and red/green wires for the actuator motor, and there is a small connector with 18 gauge black/white and black wires for the reed position sensor. The Reed position sensor in the actuator will create very low resistance between the small black/white and black wires when the actuator is completely retracted, and there will be very high resistance between the wires when the actuator is not fully retracted. If there is high resistance between those wires when the actuator is fully retracted, then it will cause a surf gate alarm and can result in the problem you described. High resistance on that circuit when the actuator is fully retracted can be caused by a faulty sensor in the actuator, or damage to the wires or connectors (especially at the seal where the wires pass through the transom). The six-pack relay is located behind the port aft breaker panel. If a relay in the pack has an internal failure, then it could also cause a surf gate alarm and the problem you described. The system isn't difficult to test and I would expect any experienced technician could find the problem. A quick and easy way to narrow down where the issue may be is to connect the port surfgate plugs to the starboard surfgate boat harness plugs, and vice versa. If the problem moves to the starboard surfgate then I would suspect it's caused by the six-pack relay box (or its wires/connections). If the problem remains with the port surfgate then I would suspect the actuator Reed switch is the issue (or its wires/connections).

Hey there, it sounds like you're having a bit of a hassle with your tower springs on the VLX. It's frustrating when adjustments don't seem to do the trick, especially when you're eager to get out on the water. Waiting to hear back from the Malibu dealer and reaching out to Bakes are smart moves, and hopefully, they can provide some helpful solutions.

Nice first post, 27 mins after joining.

So, I was helping out a buddy with his 18 A22 and noticed this cool Dash Closeout Panel that covers all the wires and stuff under the dash. Then, I looked at my 21 VLX and realized it didn't have the same panel. I'm wondering if the 18 VLX actually came with this panel and if so, what's the part number? I checked Great Lakes Skipper and found a panel for the 2018 24 LSV, but I'm not sure if that one would fit my VLX. Any ideas or suggestions?

When I was looking to do the same I was told the newer models used 1" thick HDPE. It was not cheap, but neither is Coosa. Regardless of what you use, if you have the clearance between it and the fuel tank I'd definitely consider 2 pieces of square tubing secured underneath at 1/3 distance fore/aft with thru-bolts countersunk on top to really firm it up.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006K408LG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-4-in-x-12-in-Zinc-Threaded-Rod-802097/204274017 I didn't take any, but it is pretty straight forward. I did not change anything that wasn't already there, just used new springs and longer threaded rods. If in your mind this is a job you are willing to tackle, you can easily do it. Only thing you may not have is the 4 inch grinder with metal blade to cut rod, but HD may do it for you.

Weird, they are the best dealer in the area and still family owned. No VC’s, no bulls***. If you dont like people telling you how it is, i could see you having an issue😂

Another thing to check is fuel pressure. Does @justgary know what fuel pressure should be on the vette engine?

Hey there! Starting with the rear lockers and then adding the bow later is totally fine. Many people do it in stages to spread out the work and costs. Just make sure to plan your setup so it's easy to add the bow later. As for the hose, 40ft sounds like a safe bet. Overbuying a bit on hose is smart, and 1” size should work well for good water flow.

My opinion is that it would be best to contact professional people who work in this field. Who could do the work qualitatively and for sure well.

Ok so we are new boat owners, our first trip out (Boat School) the starboard ballast bag unattached to the forward hose connection and we were shown how to reattach and secure it. The problem we are now having is that bag keep losing water, the auto bilge flashes on and off when we pull anyone. So every 1-2 runs we have to refill it. Any thoughts on what could be happening? It is still connected but for the life of us we can't figure out where it it leaking. And it's not leaking until the shift of the boat while pulling someone. Thank you in advance

I'm not sure I'm happy about that.

Right. Unfortunately, it’s been like this for a while - since I bought the boat. One mechanic said just to monitor it and change it regularly, so I definitely need to do that. I’m going to change the spark plugs too. It just feels like it’s not running on all cylinders. Which hopefully is just the plugs and not something more serious, although it ran perfectly fine the last ride of last season. Only thing that has been done since then is winterization.

I’m aware how that works, just couldn’t understand old jeeps post. Thx

Update on the wedge. Haven’t gotten sensor yet but did find out how to easily power the wedge to stow position without spinning the stupid paddle wheel. All you have to do is swap the wedge wires and the down button now works as an up button. That way you can do it by yourself. In doing this i found that I also have a bad Lenco actuator. It kept blowing the resettable fuse so i disconnected rams and powered them outwards. Only one moved but temporarily i was able to just unscrew the chrome part of the defective ram and bolt it in place. Hope this helps someone else. Wish I would have know this trick sooner.

Do you have any pics of your project? I’d love to see them, as I need to tackle this too. PM me if you can’t post pics.

By moving the CoG forward more of the hull is in the water making a longer boat at the centreline. This gives more lateral ‘bite’ and less movement. Think skinny rear tyres on a dragster vs fat slicks and a prepped track.

First thing that jumps out to me is milky trans fluid. That is a sign that it has water in it, and should be changed. However, if it got water in it once, it will likely get in again, so you need to troubleshoot on how it's getting in there.

Sorry. 2016 22vlx

Thank you, gentlemen!

I have a 2000 1622 VLX the same question I don’t know the battery. Can anyone help?