Just a few other things if somebody hasn't already covered it (this is a pretty long thread, so somebody probably did).  Tighten the hub nut very securely when initially installing it (maybe around 20-25 lbs/ft), then loosen the nut again before it torqued to the 18-20 lbs/inch.

The most common issue I have seen with the hydraulic braking system is trapped air or water intrusion.  Air in the system can expand when heated causing the brakes to drag. Water contamination can cause the same problem as well as attributes to internal corrosion.  The master cylinder should not be submerged in water, and if it is then the fluid should be checked.  There are inexpensive DOT3 brake fluid testers available on Amazon.  When bleeding the brakes, I always start with the wheel with the shortest brake line closest to the master cylinder (left front), then go to the longest brake line furthest from the master cylinder (right rear), then the right front, the left rear, and finish up by doing the left front again.  With a hose and fluid reservoir connected to the caliper bleed screw, manual bleeding using a screwdriver and the master cylinder lower service hole or using a pressure bleeder works the best.  I've used shop air vacuum bleeders, but have occational had trouble removing all of the air on the 1st or even the 2nd try with them.

On 6/2/2024 at 9:51 AM, travesty42 said:

 

Three, Boat2Trailer Hookup latch on the winch stand.

 

Care to add anything here? I've seen this and thought about it.  Looks pretty cool and handy, but was curious about real world reviews.

Would anyone know where I can find that part? Or at least get the part number and I could look it up.

Thank you Crew, 

I hope your hubs are not cracked, but just wanted to share a solution I've used to eliminate multiple comebacks after a repair. 

Also, I don't know enough about the engineering or heat specifications of the hubs to answer that, but from my experience hub cracking is more often caused by improper removal or installation of the Vault covers.  There isn't any hard evidence, specifications, or solid reasoning I can offer you, other than direct hands on experience I've had with these types of hub lubrication systems for over a decade and the solutions I've used when having problems with them.  If a new Vault cover and o-ring were used, installed properly, and then fell out a 2nd time, my next step was hub replacement to solve the problem. 

What's his use case?  Always trailering, or is he on the water and it will be in the water all season.  If it's going to live on a trailer, I'd probably go with a bunk, as the scissor ones can be pretty tippy and they take a little more care when driving and securing to the trailer.  If we're talking trailering for putting it in our out for the season, just rent a scissor trailer for each use.  Around here I can rent a trailer for $50 for 3 hours - less crap to store too if you're tight on space.