I have a 2014 LSV and the rear left fuse keeps blowing. I know the pump is fine as I hooked it up to the center ballast and it ran great, no fuse issue.

I went thru all the wiring I can see. I even sprayed the connectors and anything electrical related to the rear ballast. still popping. It pops within about 2 seconds or less of hitting the "fill" button.

Yes, first time using it this year but did not see any rodent droppings. (Boat was clean and had about a million dryer sheets in it to keep those darn mice away!!)

Any other ideas? Seems like an easy fix but can't figure it out.

Did your gains somehow get turned down on the amps?

I have a 2019 Expedition Max with the HD tow package as well. I tow a 2007 v-ride, so it is a much smaller boat. I think Florida is the flattest state. I have towed a few times to Tennessee, so I have been through some of those big hills that the locals refer to as mountains. I seem to remember that the transmission temperature never went above about 220 degrees in those conditions. I did have it get to the 240’s on me once, but it was on a 5 mile stretch of steep hills. Some of them were 16 degrees. It had delayed shifts from park for a few drives immediately after that. 

1. Transmission is cooled by the engine coolant, so it will always be about the same temperature as the engine unless something is wrong. A larger radiator is the only cooling system upgrade for the HD tow compared to the standard. The F150’s are the same setup. The F150 Raptors have their own dedicated air to transmission oil cooler. Some people on the expedition forum have managed to install the Raptor cooler on the expedition. 

2. Did any fluid come out when it was 264 degrees? Possibly check the fluid level.

3. In the top picture, the engine temperature isn’t displayed above the gauge, so it was less than about 230 or 235 degrees. This large delta I think signals that something is wrong with the transmission. I think there are two common issues with the 10 speed transmission on the expedition. One is something in the valve body. The other is a CDF drum failure. Does it slam into any gears or have rough downshifts? Are there delays in shifting from park to drive or park to reverse?

4. The second picture with the 239 engine temp and 241 transmission, was this taken before or after the thermostat upgrade?

5. How close are you to the your power train warranty ending? I believe it is 5 years 60,000 miles. If that has not passed, you may want to be a little louder with the dealership. 

6. From some information others have posted on the expedition forum, I believe they indicated that the 220 degree temperature was normal for these transmissions. Mine runs under about 200 in most situations not towing. I do have the updated thermostat. 

A couple things to consider. 1. Use forscan to show the engine temperature all the time above the gauge. This can help you determine if your situation is an overall cooling issue or transmission only. 2. I always lock out 9 and 10 while towing by pressing the downshift button. I find that towing at highways speeds, the transmission temperature will drop a little further if I lock out 8 as well. The mileage is almost indistinguishable between the 3 gears. 

I took my 2018 Axis T22 out for the first time this season and I noticed when I went to crank up the stereo the volume is very lower. I camn turn it up all the way and it's not very loud and sound slightly distorted. It doesn't matter if boat is on or off and auto volume control on or off. Auto volume does work when boat gets moving. I checked the basics, fuses are good, Amp is powered on with blue light all connections are good (from what I can tell), batteries are both charged at 12.5 v with boat off.

I either have SP1 package with added wet sounds tower speakers or the SP2. But I don't have a sub or bow speakers. Amp is a wetsounds and has some factory Amp thing with sirus/xm mounted next to it. I'm not great with stereos but I get the basics.

Amp/Wet sounds

Head unit/infinity mc30

Any help would be appreciated.

Until I can swap the cable I liberally sprayed some corrosion x hd in the port and on the rj45 connector. I was thinking maybe a contact problem so…. This product I think has some solvent for cleaning with dielectric grease. I only messed around for about an hour but so far no flickering. Too soon for a victory lap but if it works next time out I’ll report back.