We are currently on our 2nd GM vehicle with the 10 speed. 2019 Silverado w/6.2 was first one. Pulled the 247 on I-10 at 75-80 mph thru hills trans stayed around 200*. Never had an issue with that truck, now have a 24' Yukon Denali 6.2/ 10 speed, that trans has never seen 200* so far. That is pretty much the same trans Ford is running, the difference has to be in the cooling system or amount of line pressure the trans runs with. My 2020 Duramax 2500 tows my 43' 5th wheel with trans temps around 190*. Transmission shops are going to tell you what dealer won't, heat is killing your trans. Once you start seeing dark fluid your clutch steels are already getting hot spots and clutches will slip on the damaged steels. 

Just now, Slayer said:

I'm not sure.  I've talked with several people who are customers of Mega and all have had nothing but great things to say about their customer service.  Time will tell.

I have nothing against Mega as I have never worked with them.  Mostly a convenience thing for me .  Although many in that market are creatures of convenience and when they show up to the local dealer with the kids / grandkids  and there is a shiny Nautique or Mastercraft that is what they will buy.  Many of them do not care what the brand is as long as it is really nice and they can make a phone call and get it serviced and at the dock when they arrive!  I'm sure that can be said for many markets though.  There were few if any Malibus in the area until Tommys arrived.

18 minutes ago, RyanB said:

Maybe.  But it's the same transmission that I have right now.  I am 0/2 on comfortably towing my boat with a 1500 platform.  The 2011 Yukon Denali XL had over heating issues.  Now I have a similar issue with my Ex.

What I'm leaning towards right now is to keep the Ex (assuming the new dealer is able to do something with the transmission), sell my Jeep and add a 2nd HD truck to the household.  If the dealer once again says the transmission is acting as designed, I don't know what I will do.

I have never had much luck sticking with a rig after I have lost confidence in it. Last time I heard that line, I traded the problem away immediately.  

8 minutes ago, bwski said:

Ugh, I could be wrong, but this seems like a bad move in terms of where the customer base is at.  There is a huge malibu presence on Walloon and Lake Charlevoix and the other area lakes.  I have to assume that Nautique (Irish) and Mastercraft (if they are coming to Lk Charlevoix) will clean up in that market.  I chose Malibu over Nautique because of being so close to Tommy's for service, I'm regretting that decision now.  Very likely my next one will not be a Malibu because of that.  I have the assume there will be a huge defection from Malibu in that area.  

I'm not sure.  I've talked with several people who are customers of Mega and all have had nothing but great things to say about their customer service.  Time will tell.

1 hour ago, justgary said:

Locking out the brakes does not mean that they don't drag.  Disc brakes are designed to always drag a bit.  If you have a bad component I could see how you could get extra drag.  I would definitely look at the lines and master cylinder since all brakes are heating up.

Things I have learned about bearings and brakes over the years:

When changing brake pads, you need to squeeze the slave cylinder back in.  I usually use a big C clamp.  I learned the hard way (several times) that you must never push fluid back into the master cylinder.  Doing so will cause the master to fail.  Open the bleed valve and let the fluid in the slave out.

Before you start getting all of the cylinders squeezed back in, it is a great opportunity to flush clean fluid through the system from the master to the slaves.  Open one bleed valve at a time at first and operate the master to push old fluid out of the lines.  Keep the master topped up as you go.  Once all of the slaves run clean, then open their valves and squeeze them in with a clamp.

Brakes are always a huge pain on any boat trailer.  I generally don't have brakes on my boat trailers.  I don't have a whale of a boat, so I'm not worried about it.  When I was young nobody had trailer brakes on a boat trailer.  I have also never had anybody ask about my trailer brakes no matter what I am towing.  It is one of the nice things about living in a flat area.

Bearings don't go bad very quickly at all if they don't have water in them and aren't too loose.  The main issue I have seen is wear from rattling around too loose, or pitting due to water intrusion.

It is really easy to dunk hot hubs into cold water when you get to the boat ramp.  This causes rapid contraction, which sucks water into the hub via any tiny gap available.  This is commonly the rear seal, but could be at the dust cap as well.  Salt water is extra bad inside a hub.

Bearing Buddies help because you fill the hub with grease until the pressure spring moves out.  This keeps positive pressure on the grease and helps make sure that the hubs have no extra space for water.

The problem with Bearing Buddies is that I find that they work the best if I give them a shot of grease every few trips.  Usually that means that some of the grease comes out of the vent hole, making a mess.

The good news is that I have never had a bad bearing with Bearing Buddies that I checked before every trip.

Thanks for sharing all of that experience and wisdom!

How do you test for a bad Master Cylinder?