I would not recommend replacing a failed post catalyst temperature sensor.  They tend to fail often due to the sensor element being damaged when exposed to heat and moisture in the exhaust downpipe.  Even the newer replacement sensors are prone to failure, just not as often as the original sensors were.  The MEFI5B ECM used in 2008 Indmar engines were designed to use the post catalyst temperature sensors as a very basic way to check for catalyst efficiency by testing the exhaust heat.  Indmar catalyst engines in 2007 had no post cat sensors, and the 2009 or newer catalyst engines used post cat O2 sensors (and a different ECM).

Indmar MEFI5B ECMs can be reprogrammed by any Indmar dealer that has Diacom and the authoring files provided by Rinda to Indmar dealers.  The new calibration will prevent a fault alarm at the helm or an engine derate when the code occurs.  The fault codes will still be active in the ECM, but they will not cause an alarm or any running issues after reprogramming. 

The alternate repair is to rewire the existing post catalyst temperature sensor harnesses.  The harness wires on the sensor can be cut between the metal sensor and the connector that plugs into the engine harness.  Just wire in a 470 ohm resistor between the two cut harness wires, tape it up or cover it with heat shrink, and then reconnect the modified sensor wire to the engine harness connector just like it was before.  This will send a signal to the ECM which mimicks a properly working post cat temperature sensor to prevent alarms or running issues. 

There are service bulletins from Indmar for both of these repair methods.

39 minutes ago, Swatski said:

I only have M5 experience in a new 2022 23 lsv

It was actually a bit of a disappointing performance, initially, the M5 seemed high revving with underwhelming push with the factory prop, clearly seemed underpropped, the M5 seemed to rev high to the point of being annoying.

the  boat came with the 3537 prop (some call it "torque prop", I believe it is 16.5" x 14")

I switched to acme 17x17 (2805) and it is so much better, tops at ~41mph, pushes the boat great surfing with full PNP ballast and extra lead. 

Thanks for sharing!  I suspected more prop (torque wise) in my demo M5 as well.

I wonder if anyone can actually provide feedback on a side-by-side comparison between 2022+ gen 23LSVs running with M5 vs M6 at sea level, or close to it. with the same props. 

I only have M5 experience in a new 2022 23 lsv

It was actually a bit of a disappointing performance, initially, the M5 seemed high revving with underwhelming push with the factory prop, clearly seemed underpropped, the M5 seemed to rev high to the point of being annoying.

the  boat came with the 3537 prop (some call it "torque prop", I believe it is 16.5" x 14")

I switched to acme 17x17 (2805) and it is so much better, tops at ~41mph, pushes the boat great surfing with full PNP ballast and extra lead. 

given a choice, I would still pick a boat with an M6 (because - why not?). WHen I was buying mine, it was a leftover at a substantial discount. I have zero plans to upgrade at this point.

No doubt the M6 would be an asset at any significant elevation, however I'm not sure how much of a difference it makes at sea level . These boats a designed with a particular task in mind, my 2022 23LSV M5 does very well.

Love the overall manageable size and the trailer is fantastic. I don't really care how this boat handles rough water, but it is what it is (no plans to take it offshore, lol). 

On 2/9/2024 at 7:37 PM, justgary said:

1/8" is way too much in my opinion.  I like the wheel to turn freely (make sure the brake is not dragging) and have no appreciable free play when I rather forcefully try to rock it top and bottom and side to side.  A little play is OK, but I don't like much.

I usually adjust the bearing preload by tightening the nut until the bearings fully bind, then back off the nut for free rotation and no free play.  If I don't tighten all the way and then back off, I find that the bearings are too loose after the first use.

As for temperature checks, no need for a temp gun.  I put my palm on the tread, then the sidewall, then the hub at every fuel stop.  Each should be warm but not hot.

Last weekend upon return from the ramp, I noticed quite a bit of heat coming off the wheels, especially on the starboard side. The rims were very hot to the touch - such that I could not keep my hand on them. This does not seem normal to me. What should I check first? I will order a thermal gun so I can get a temp reading next time.

32 minutes ago, MustGoFast said:

My biggest question would be how much faith/trust do I put into the used boat (why are they selling, how did they treat it, etc).  My piece of mind is worth something.  Then there's straight resale - so next year I want to sell it (making this up) that might be 10k of your 20k right there...  I guess for me it would have to be at least 20k to make me consider it all other things equal, less than that I'll take new over used for sure.  

Also remember if you do want to resell within the warranty window, your warranty is only transferrable once.  So if you buy a used boat, you cannot transfer the remaining warranty to a potential third owner.  That probably makes the boat a bit less attractive than first-time resales.