As promised…..

First things first, the 2021 M220 is slightly different then the boat I first posted about a few years ago. I actually found two separate swim light connections in the back of the boat (vs one on my 21MLX). One for the port side and one for starboard. They both had the same color wires, blue with yellow stripe and black. The blue with the yellow stripe is the positive and the black is ground. I would post pictures but I am not by my computer and can’t get Imgur to work on my phone. I might update this post later.

Either way, the connections were not hard to find. They are behind the motor, zip tied to the exhaust vent and all the other wires, the two swim light connection were just capped off as they weren’t connected to anything. 

The difference I noticed was the voltage. I believe on my 21 MLX I was getting 5V out and on this boat I get right at 13.5V. I still ran a relay but I don’t think it was necessary. 

So for me, here is my setup starting at the pre-wired connectors. 

Black Wire from Pre-Wired Plug (Port or Stbd) to Pin 85 on Relay (This will also be tied into the ground for your light)

Blue with Yellow Strip from Pre-Wired Plug (Port or Stbd) to Pin 86 on Relay

Positive Terminal on the Battery (or 12V connection just in front of the motor on the port side) to Pin 30 on Relay

From there you will need to wire per the instructions that came with your light. Mine has a separate controller ($49 vs the $250+ for the Shadow Caster Controller)

Pin 87 on Relay to 12v Light Input (or RGB controller then light)

Pin 85 on Relay to Ground on Light Input (or RGB controller then light)

The only other thing you need to do is turn on the “Swim” option in “Boat Options” on your screen and then from the Lighting Menu turn on the “Underwater” lights. This will trigger your lights to come on and then you can control the color per the instructions on your RGB Controller (if you have RGB lights)

Hope this was helpful. 

FYI, I spent about $200 from boat plug lights for one 8000 lumen RGB light vs around $2k on the last boat for two single color lights from a different company. No drilling, easier setup, and just as happy. 

Replacing fluid and trying to establish a high quality replacement for Indmar fluid numbers of 872022-1 and 872020-1

No close suppliers for the indmar synthetic 50w or the ATF. Has anyone had a replacement specified by indmar or Malibu.

2016 VTX 6.2L ford monsoon

Thank you

Looking at the amp manual, I am not sure a 2 ohm sub is the right choice either. It’s not a dual voice coil and it’s connected to the “bridged” outputs on the amp. 

I think your correct on the upgrade will be substantial.

Are you really looking for that wide bow?  After my recent tests I found the 23mxz with the more rearward drivers area gave a great bow space but was too small in the main area fora 23' boat it feels smaller than the LSV (because it is back there) and then costs more too.  I was 24MXZ then 23 LSV then 23 MXZ in preferences.  Surf waves were all similar enough tbh.  That said your needs and desires could very well be different but figured I'd share my demo experiences as I've been in those 3 boats in the same week this month.

Today I did the easy stuff first, isolated the power and ground for the amp, then I connected my iPad to the rca inputs to just test if I had a bad cable or output from the black box.  Still had the same noise along with the audio (using the amp adjustments to limit to below 120hz).   Then, I removed the sub from under the helm, and ran a short pair of wires to the amp to isolate speaker level outputs.  Unfortunately, it seems my speaker is bad, as I can tap on the back of the frame and basically duplicate the “static” sound I heard, so I’m going to call Wet Sounds on Monday.  I don’t expect any warranty support but I’d gladly pay for a repair or a replacement speaker.  It is definitely a Revo 10 FA S2 so maybe they can also recommend the correct speaker for that tiny pathetic little box I have (I don’t need big bass or comp level audio, but a little bump is ok to me).