Freezing temperatures

[oldjeep]

3 minutes ago, Pra4sno said:

After having to clear my drains out with a piece of coat hanger to get them to empty this year I can't imagine using an all in one valve would be safe, at least for me with an older motor.  

The simplicity would be great though.

Even on newer engines.  One of the boats - an Axis I did last year for a friend had a whole bunch of what looked like shale chips clogging up every drain port.  Took multiple stabbings with a screwdriver before all the water drained from each location.

[The Hulk]

1 hour ago, oldjeep said:

Even on newer engines.  One of the boats - an Axis I did last year for a friend had a whole bunch of what looked like shale chips clogging up every drain port.  Took multiple stabbings with a screwdriver before all the water drained from each location.

Add a strainer.. 

[oldjeep]

55 minutes ago, The Hulk said:

Add a strainer.. 

doesn't take care of any casting sand or rust flakes from the block, and increases the possibility of overheat from a clogged strainer.  Draining block is simple, no need to complicate it

Edited November 10, 2017 by oldjeep

[NMMalibuFamily]

4 hours ago, The Hulk said:

A few white connectors and some hoes I think you can do it

I had to read that a couple times. I thought you were talking about a frat party at the University of Texas. 

Edited November 10, 2017 by NMMalibuFamily

[The Hulk]

7 minutes ago, NMMalibuFamily said:

I had to read that a couple times. I thought you were talking about a frat party at the University of Texas. 

Hahah speach to text.. didn't review. Was suppose to be "Y" connectors.. but I like it!

[oldjeep]

11 minutes ago, NMMalibuFamily said:

I had to read that a couple times. I thought you were talking about a frat party at the University of Texas. 

Need to read it one more time, hoes would be for gardening.

[ibelonginprison]

14 hours ago, NMMalibuFamily said:

I had to read that a couple times. I thought you were talking about a frat party at the University of Texas. 

I can think of a few more universities that applies to, as well. 

Can't believe I'm saying this, but I agree with GrumpyJe... I mean... OldJeep. 
Too many things that can get into the system that can clog one port, to keep it from reaching the main drain port. Only possible solution to this would be have one drain "block" that all the hoses run to (like a distribution block), so that it all leads to the same low point,  but each hose drains separately so that you can tell if one of them is blocked, then you can twist all the petcocks open in about 10 seconds. Still - not something I would trust. Too much between point A and point B that can get stuck in there, twisted, kinked, blocked, possible disruption of the regular flow of water used for cooling etc.

I like the idea of petcocks in-line at each drain point though, instead of removing hose clamps, pulling hoses etc. 

Question: what would you do about the block drain points? The Monsoon's like mine, that's where the knock sensors plug in. 

[minnmarker]

18 hours ago, The Hulk said:

I mentioned above but as mentioned a possibile failure of valve not working leads to a big problem.. tie em all to one point one valve at end would be best so u can visualize and confirm water coming out. Bring em all together near tranny  and have one valve there and tranny bolt only two things then in same spot.. or add tranny bolt connector of some sort 

With a common outlet you don't know if an individual line is clogged by rust or something and not draining.  I know what you mean by unintentional draining which would be more likely with multiple valves.  Trade offs! 

I'm sticking with my bilge heater

[ahopkins22LSV]

If you all would have just bought boats with the engine with the correct location it would only take you 10-15 minutes to unscrew each knock sensor, take the two hoses off and drain the manifolds.  

[Michigan boarder]

Just now, ahopkinsTXi said:

If you all would have just bought boats with the engine with the correct location it would only take you 10-15 minutes to unscrew each knock sensor, take the two hoses off and drain the manifolds.  

Ha!  I was just going to say the same.

...and facing the right direction....

10-15 minutes is on the long side, more like 5!

[oldjeep]

7 minutes ago, ahopkinsTXi said:

If you all would have just bought boats with the engine with the correct location it would only take you 10-15 minutes to unscrew each knock sensor, take the two hoses off and drain the manifolds.  

Doesn't take much if any longer in a v-drive unless you are too fat to sit in the side compartments  .  The only thing the DD has going for it is impeller access, assuming you haven't got the stupid belt driven pump like my inlaws LXI which takes much longer to change.

[Chrisjjbrown]

46 minutes ago, Michigan boarder said:

Ha!  I was just going to say the same.

...and facing the right direction....

10-15 minutes is on the long side, more like 5!

Apparently you don't know Hopkins very well..... the guy took 6 months to paint a nursery. 

[ahopkins22LSV]

1 hour ago, Chrisjjbrown said:

Apparently you don't know Hopkins very well..... the guy took 6 months to paint a nursery. 

If you drag things out it gives you an excuse to continue to go work on them!

[Chrisjjbrown]

46 minutes ago, ahopkinsTXi said:

If you drag things out it gives you an excuse to continue to go work on them!

I understand......Anything to get away from the pregnant wife

[The Hulk]

4 hours ago, Michigan boarder said:

Ha!  I was just going to say the same.

...and facing the right direction....

10-15 minutes is on the long side, more like 5!

Way to long needs to be 30s tops!

[Pra4sno]

On 11/10/2017 at 10:35 AM, ahopkinsTXi said:

If you all would have just bought boats with the engine with the correct location it would only take you 10-15 minutes to unscrew each knock sensor, take the two hoses off and drain the manifolds.  

Haha, I too have been wondering about this, then remember the DD is a piece of cake.  I don't even have knock sensors and just pull a drain plug on one side and my shower hose port on the other.  I bet those frat bros couldn't shotgun a beer before water was pouring out both sides of the block!  

 

I don't, and likely will never run a strainer due to the overheating issues I've heard of with them; the fact the boat hasn't had one since 1993, and lastly...we don't have much in the way of seaweed at all.  Out here the only weeds we worry about is whatever the bros on the other boats are smoking while driving.  

[Michigan boarder]

Bump.  Seems appropriate right about now.

[Michigan boarder]

On 11/10/2017 at 12:35 PM, ahopkinsVTX said:

If you all would have just bought boats with the engine with the correct location it would only take you 10-15 minutes to unscrew each knock sensor, take the two hoses off and drain the manifolds.  

Well, well, well....

[ahopkins22LSV]

9 hours ago, Michigan boarder said:

Well, well, well....

Well now I get to complain about wintering!

[Woodski]

@ahopkinsVTX:  I will be thinking of you while I stand by my vessel enjoying a cold one w/o any 4 letter words muttered as the water runs on the driveway...

[ahopkins22LSV]

1 minute ago, Woodski said:

@ahopkinsVTX:  I will be thinking of you while I stand by my vessel enjoying a cold one w/o any 4 letter words muttered as the water runs on the driveway...

Haha well I’m going to drain everything tonight so I’ll let you know how it goes. So farm I’m impressed with the layout of the pcm 6.0 and the engine compartment actually has more space then I was expecting too. Oil change was easier then on my response actually due to the oil filter location. Hope winterizing follows  

[oldjeep]

On ‎10‎/‎12‎/‎2018 at 5:31 AM, ahopkinsVTX said:

Well now I get to complain about wintering!

Don't know about your engine.  But my VTX isn't any harder to winterize than my inlaws LXI.  As long as you are not too fat to sit down in the side compartments there is actually more space to work on the VTX.  The impeller is a wash, but only because their LXI has the belt driven style that is a huge pain in the rear to remove and split to replace the impeller.

[ahopkins22LSV]

Judging by this diagram and the fact the plugs can be removed by hand, I’m thinking it will be easier as well. Just comes down to access. 

[oldjeep]

6 minutes ago, ahopkinsVTX said:

Judging by this diagram and the fact the plugs can be removed by hand, I’m thinking it will be easier as well. Just comes down to access. 

Looks simple, but those hoses scare me.  Going to want to run something like a stiff trimmer string up those hoses to the block to make sure that the drains are not blocked and fully drain.

[Woodski]

@oldjeep:  I simply remove the raw water pump (Merc) and disassemble on the bench, seems like the easiest way for the Jabsco belt driven variety.  Off the crank does appear to be easy access.

I agree on the block water drain hoses, no issue for a few years, but long term I would make sure the block fittings are open and not clogged as OJ has noted many times.  The diagram seems to indicate several spots for lake trash to accumulate.

Note:  one option would be to measure water being drained and make sure it remains consistent every year but you would have to do it from the start and keep good records.