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Gel coat is tough, I’d start with a wool pad and medium cut polish. I’ve been impressed with both the cutting and finishing capabilities of wool.

So I found out allllllll about those connectors today once I can figure out how to post images I can help everyone understand the last post lol!!! basicly b is high thermal and balck There is gray green and others... p and s are male and female metal conector type. dto6 is the connector housing type... I will also put up the final final design.... but this should let me keep the oem warenty. So I can plug it all back in if things need fixing.

I did use a 1.25" shaft for some reason. Never do math in public!

I ran the calcs and I got a different number. The shaft is 1.125 I assumed a yield strength of 100,000 psi. moment=yeild(I)/r moment = 14,000 in lbs. at 9" 1500 lbs will yield the shaft. did I do it wrong?

Yeah. I bought the lightest compound. If that doesn't work then I will get more aggressive. Boat has looked like glass most of the time I have owned it, all elbow grease and beer. Last year or 2, I have not done as good a job on it, but it lives inside.

Might have been saving you from future ram replacements 😉

May not be Malibus fault. Dealer could have ordered wrong. I know from experience.

Ya the door sticks up so I can’t install the GatorStep I ordered flush. Plus it looks like an excellent spot for people to stub toes on and something to rattle at certain RPM.

After 21 summers, I'm not there (cutting) yet. Doubt I'll ever do that. Tony's tonic acid wash, sealant, and Collinite 925(?) for me. Folks on my lake still think the boat is new. Same goes for my (saltwater and lake) 1970 Winner.

Start with the firmest. Give them a squeeze test. Work your way down to softer and ultimately the wax or whatever coating you’re putting on at the end. I will say, that after 10 years of no polishing, you will possibly need a rotary buffet with a wool pad.

Start with yellow with a heavy cutting compound to remove oxidation and work down to a finishing pad from there. Gel coat takes quite a bit more than what paint does, a wool pad is often my choice for starting out.

Shipped!

If I could swap a manual wedge on, I would. Was not aware that was even an option anymore. Why swap platform? Can't live with door?

My 24 T220 came with an incorrect manual wedge (vs power) and different surf exhaust and swim platform due to the mix up. It sounds like Malibu is only covering the power wedge and exhaust swap and my dealer says they have to eat the swim platform cost which is absolutely nuts to me they would have to eat that since it was entirely Malibus fault.

After 10 years of ownership, my hull cleaning got a little lax. Starting to see some oxidation on the black, so I ordered a chicom DA buffer and some 3m light cutting stuff. The buffer comes with a bunch of colored pads. How does one decide which to use? Up until now it has been all arm power and collinite cleaning paste.

For a non mechanic like me, pulling the engine is one of those things you get to talk about for years. (This photo was in 2018)

Bought a 2004 Malibu Response LXI and and in the process of restoring it. It did not come with a swim deck or brackets for it. Looking for a few things... - What bracket I need to order - If anyone has one that would fit, I would consider buying one - Looking for dimensions of the deck itself and I could possibly build one - Interested in seeing pictures

This is why I love this site...you guys are awesome! Thanks for all the feedback it's much appreciated!

Good time to clean the bilge good too!

And the fuel and exhaust hoses, too!

Good intuition, Woodski. I just calculated the deflection of a 1.25" stainless shaft held 9" away from a 3,000 pound load. The deflection would be about 0.22 inches or so, which is no doubt way under the amount needed to induce plastic deformation (i.e. create a permanent bend in the rod after the load is released).

Typically, in a bank owned sale like this, the dealer (or some other entity if repossession was to occur) would retain possession of the items (under close scrutiny of the bank) and someone would be available to show the product to potential buyers with the understanding the bank will reimburse the selling agent if that isn’t a bank employee. The financial discussions will happen with the bank instead of through F&I at the dealership. Realistically, you would very likely be able to take financing out on your own for this boat too. I doubt you could do a trade in on it because the bank isn’t in the boat business and they are offloading assets, they don’t want another. The dealer is definitely not going to take it on trade, they would have a harder time selling it. Jeff, you bring some interesting points up. I had no idea dealers had to get preapproval for warranty work. I’d have hoped they would be empowered to make that call for most things and just document it in the warranty claim. Seems less efficient to have to adjudicate a blame before it’s completed. Full disclosure, I work for an automotive OEM as a service engineer and deal with warranty spend as part of my daily activities.

I am working on dewinterizing and getting my 2011 23LSV back out on the water for summer. In doing so, I noticed some sloshing around when I jumped into the port side locker where the rear ballast tank is. Tank is empty but the entire section around where the hard tank is full of water. I was able to take part of the flooring out and access where the rear ballast tank pump is located and water is filled to the top. The entire section is filled with water. The starboard side is dry and the hull is completely dry as well. My assumption is that there are drain holes on each side of the stringers and my portside is clogged up. Does anyone have any idea where these drain holes would be located? I have not had any success in figuring out where these are.

This may feel like an unpopular opinion, but I've been on both sides of this and have seen 3 dealerships up close and personal, including my own at one point. The dealers don't always get reimbursed for work that is viewed as warranty in the customer's eyes. Dealers will often have to "eat" a lot of the cost and labor associated with warranty work, which is why they have to make money on the sale of the boat. And in order to quickly get you back out on the water, will often do it by purchasing parts in advance to swap out knowing they might get questioned and fought on the claim. Imagine the flip side if the dealer decided to sit on your boat for a week in July just trying to get an authorization approved before they would even touch your boat for fear of not getting reimbursed. If you went out somewhere to find a killer deal, then arrive at a different dealer expecting them to do all the warranty work for you, some of which would likely cost them money to do, you'd view it a little differently. While there are some dealers that have shown themselves to do some shady things, there are also plenty out there just trying to make an honest living in an industry that constantly paints them as criminals. Everyone want their dealer to have 30 techs just sitting at the shop waiting to turn your new boat in and out for service the same day in the middle of the summer, but also wants to be able to buy it at 3% over invoice. That just isn't a sustainable business model for a seasonal, luxury item that requires stock in the showroom. For cars, you are correct. They make most of their money on service and warranty claims are much smoother and consistent. Not the case in the marine world.

What would the purchase of a Malibu from Tommy's look like right now? Presumably, the boat could be located at any of Tommy's 15-16 locations. Would the buyer be dealing directly with an individual from M&T bank? Seems unlikely, but I don't know, hence the question. Would there be a boat sales person / broker involved? Does Malibu corporate have any say in the disposition of Tommy's inventory? I have purchased foreclosed real estate before and there was still a real estate agent representing the bank/owner. And in the late 90's I almost purchased a Nautique from a dealer in the pacific northwest (I am in SoCal) that lost their dealership arrangement with Correct Craft and was looking to unload the last 8-10 boats they had in inventory in advance of that effective date. The dealer provided me with their invoice and supporting details of their floor financing as assurance that the prices were rock bottom. But that dealer was not in default with their lender. Just curious.