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Hello, I have been having issues with my 2022 Axis T23 with the M5di motor. We are having the issue of the engine management light coming on for 2 seconds and then disappearing whilst the boat is under load (fully ballasted and travelling at 10.8mph). When this happens the boat slows down to a speed less than 9mph and doesnt allow us to accelerate more. As soon as you stop the boat and put it back to neutral and go again its normal. This is happening around 4-5 times per hour of surfing. The code that is showing in the fault codes is: - Injector High Side Short to Ground - 7 (SPN 657) and (FMI 4) - Injector High Side Short To Ground - 2 (SPN 652) and (FMI 4) We have replaced both injectors which has not helped at all. We have also tried rotating injectors from other sides and checked all engine grounds and it keeps happening. We are based far away and the dealer has also tried to fix it 3 times now and cant seem to find the problem. Has anybody else had this issue or have any idea how we can resolve this?

Hi Everyone I appreciate your input. I am deciding between an 2018 A24 or 2018 T23 and I am concerned the A24 (6450#) will be too heavy to tow with a 2018 Toyota Sequoia Plt. (7k# rated) It tows my 02 23LSV easily, but is 2k# less. We live WA so a few trips over the mountains is usual and then around town. Please let me know what your experience is towing an A24 or T23 with the Sequoia. Regards

New to Malibu Crew and just picked up a 2015 Axis T23 after about 4 years of researching. This site has been an invaluable tool in helping me to make informed decisions and be a educated buyer, so thank you to all who post on this site. So I have spent the last few weeks going through every single system and familiarizing myself with every piece of the boat and troubleshooting/replacing a few items that needed. As soon as we took the boat out we noticed the 4 tower speakers were going into protection mode and cutting out when we turned the volume up about 25%. Our head unit is a Sony CDX-H910UI with a volume control of 0-50... we were around level 20. After doing extensive research here and elsewhere it seemed that the gain control was the issue. Last night I got things adjusted to where everything seems to be in order. My question to this forum is whether or not this is the correct remedy. I have drawn a diagram of how I believe my system is wired that can be found here. Full disclosure, i'm an architect, not an electrical engineer, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night. Punch line of the story is that my 4 tower speakers (Icon 8's @150RMS @ 4ohms) are running off of one amp (either a wetsounds HT1 or HT2, admittedly I didn't check). I set all the EQ's to flat and turned the volume up to 75% (number 38 on head unit) and played a 1khz test tone at 0db gain to take my voltage readings coming out of the amp. The initial reading came in at 30.52V out of the amplifier which using the formula SQRT(150 watts * 4ohms) = approx 24.49V seemed to be a little over powered. However as best I can tell the speakers are wired in parallel off of a single channel which would reduce impedance to 2ohms (2-4ohm speakers) which would mean a max voltage of SQRT(150 watts * 2ohms) = 17.32V... which is far lower than what it was set at, and is almost at minimum gain. Initally I set the gain to 17.32V and was still experiencing the same problem, and after completing the definition of insanity 6 more times, it worked fine, however the last time I believe that I inadvertently switched the left and right of the single channel (still connected + to + and - to -)... which could have affected all the wiring down the line (maybe they aren't in parallel). Bottom line, I am unsure of whether the voltage that I have set the tower speakers at is too low (which is better than too high). I have not found a definitive answer on whether you combine the wattages of speakers connected in parallel or just use the rated RMS wattage of a single speaker and the measured impedance to set your base tuning. My impedance measurements of the speakers are a nominal of 2 ohms and an actual reading of 2.9ohms (both left and right pair). Any help would be appreciated, otherwise I may just have it checked out to be on the safe side. Side note: Does anyone else have a boat where the radio memory (yellow) wire is not wired directly to the battery? When i cut my battery switch off it kills memory power to the head unit which is completely pointless... I ended up running a new 3A fused wire to the radio last night (probably need to change to a 1A but 3A was all I had on hand).