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Hello Crew, Question about the steering cable. While doing some other maintenance, I noticed that the metal plate that the steering cable is attached to is loose. This is the plate on the starboard side, near the transom, below the engine. There is a bolt head on top, which is tight. But the whole plate can be moved around quite a bit, although not pulled away completely. I can feel one bolt on the forward side, that is loose. I can't really reach the aft side enough to determine what is there. Is there a way to get to this plate and tighten things down? Could this be causing problems with my steering (I noticed some wonkiness at high speeds)? This is a 2018 Malibu 21VLX with Indmar Monsoon engine (model 400). Thanks

Guys, here is my story. I bought the boat new at the Detroit boat show in 2001. Its a 2001 Malibu Sunsetter LXI with a couple options; the fuel injected Monsoon 350 Indmar engine, additional sound proofing, wood dash trim and wheel , and the wedge. My oldest kid was 10 (I have 4) and it was a great time to get a boat for the family. Long story short, its been a fabulous thing for the family. Kids are all skiers and we spend much time together. Well, its been 8 years and the boat has 600 hrs on it. Its never had anything mechanical go wrong with it....nothing. I simply changed the oil and occassionally the plugs. Once in a while I had a shop change the transmission oil, for which they usually robbed me for 75 bucks or so. Well, last fall I finally hurt the boat. Hit a big rock and screwed up the running equipment. 6k in damage including shaft, rudder, bearing strut, prop. So when I finally got it back, knowing that it was like new, I decided to get on all the things that were not perfect, and fix them. Then I would be happy my boat was like new again. So I found this site and started to read. I changed my trans fluid myself for the first time. That sure was easy. Got 8$ handpump from store and it took 5 minutes to pump the 2 quarts out through the dipstick and refill. saved some bucks. Now will prob change every yr or two. Seats were pulling apart at seams in some places. I had replaced one skin myself and it cost a fortune, so I read here about just getting them resewn. Found a local upolstery shop and had em done. Charged me like 30 bucks a seat. Looks like new now. Bilge pump stopped working. Found out how to find and repair or replace it on this site. Got access to it thru the four simple screws holding the cover plate against the front of the engine compartment (near ski plyon) , pulled the top off to check for debris in bottom, found none, but little plastic impeller spinner was stuck fast. I turned it by hand and it snapped loose, now it worked again. But I know it needs replaced so I got online to buy a new one. Old one was Gaurdian 500, replaced by new 750 gal per hr unit (I forget...Attwood Shurline I think) for like 60 bucks. It is largest unit with same output size line. 3/4 inch I think. Another thing that bugged me, my Ski pylon head wouldn't turn anymore. Used small paint putty knife to insert under edge of the plastic top cap, gently tapping w small hammer. Was easy to pop head off. Loosened center set screw, unscrewed bolt with socket wrench, rinsed the bearing unit in fuel, repacked with grease, cleaned all surfaces with gas to remove old hard grease, and put it back together (bolt down almost tight, then put set screw in to hold the bolt just off a hard seat, which allows the unit to spin nicely). 10 or 15 minute job. Learned that WOT (wide open throttle) for engine top end was 5200 rpm for the 350 MPI monsoon. Bought new prop online and it runs 5100 RPM on my boat. Great hole shot, nice wake. Cutter 4 blade 13x12.5 stainless. (I am one of the few folks here running a 4 blade.) If you search the site you will find a thread with a compiled excel spreadsheet of all the props that people are running on their boats and what WOT and speed they developed with them, and this will help you get a great prop. Changed the fuel filter. On my boat its in the back, under the deck hatch, behind the wall (against back seat area) just left of center on fuel line. Its an inline filter and simple to replace. The hard part is unscrewing all the screws holding the wall and floor liner in...use a power drill grasshopper. After all the undercarriage damage from the rock was repaired, the Boat came back to me with the steering wheel off center. It was 90 degree off center when the boat ran straight. Boy that pissed me off. Dont they check that when they fix your boat? So I learned here to run straight on lake, stop boat with wheel in whatever position its in when boat is straight, grab 7/16 socket, go under the wheel (under the dash), and you see the teleflex steering rack (black rectangular thing). Its got 4 bolts clamping it to the steering wheel shaft. Take the four bolts out, pull the black rack away from the wheel ( unless you also take off the bracing strut that helps support the rack...the strut is bolted to one of the four bolts, you will have to sort of twist the rack up and away from the wheel shaft), so that the wheel is disengaged with the rack, and then re-center wheel in new spot, then twist rack back down so its seated on wheel shaft and then retightin the bolts. Simple. Also, when it came back from the rock repairs, it pulled like a mother to the right. So I read here that the rudder could be adjusted via the rudder trim tab, or ground carefully if no tab, to adjust the amount of pull. If your a serious course skier, you might like the pull because it takes the slack out of the system and gives you a nice hard straight line. Well, I prefer a slight pull since I am not a serious skier and prefer a nice smooth easy steering wheel operation; a sunday cruise with beer in hand feel. Boat was pulling HARD to right, so I loosened the two set screws on the right side of the rudder, moved the tab out so that its tail end (the rear of the little hydrofoil) was just barely sticking out on the right side, then tightened it back down. That made a huge difference. Boat tracks nice but now has only a slight pull and I can drive with my fingers again, with my other hand gently holding a precious beer. Also after the rock repair, when I took it out for a run, I lifted the back flooring to check shaft seal drip rate. It was running very wet with a fast drip rate. So I learned on site that a slow drip rate, maybe 3 or 4 a minute would be more usual, so I used a spanner wrench and a small pipe wrench to back off the thin lock nut, then tightened the big nut down about 90 degrees (quarter turn) and retightened the lock nut against it. this reduced the drip to a much lower rate. Caution, if you make it too tight and it fails to drip at all, it will heat up....and maybe ruin your packing seal. It needs to drip slowly. Then, my stereo head unit was acting up...CD player ate a CD. I found on this site a recommendation for an APLINE 9886 head unit with full ipod functionality. I bought it online cheaply (couple hundred bucks). It has 3 sets of prepamp outs and a million features. Its awesome. I pulled out the old HU, striped the old wires, twisted and soldered and electrical taped the new pigtail in, and dropped the HU in place. WOW. Its awesome. It was easy but a little time consuming to solder all the connections. I am going to put in an amp next. A good spot for a subwoofer box is in front of the drivers feet. Quite a bit of room back there. For myself, I want nice sound but not a 12" woofer. My wife wouldnt let me play the stereo if I cranked it (lol...yeah I am married). So I got on Polk website and they have instructions for woofer boxes of all types. I may put in a 8" or maybe 10" woofer and small box in right upper corner, in front of drivers feet. Looks like will fit easily and no need to build a mounting wall. I sanded and re-oiled the teak deck (I do this a couple times a year anyhow). It never gets too bad since I always trailer the boat and keep in in the garage. My trailer has a swing tongue. So as if all that wasnt enough, last few nights I learned a few very very important things on this site by browsing...one, I can fix the damn gas tank!!! We all know the Malibu gas gauge is freakin useless!!! Well, I finally found the post on installing a new "teleflex fuel sender" on the tank. Damn I am excited. Also, I found the thread on the new fuel check valve to install to keep the fuel tank from overflowing and pumping fuel out the overflow port all over everything. I bought them both at 1am last night from "discount inboard marine". 75$ for the checkvalve and 29 for the fuel sender. Wow am I excited. No more listening to the gurgle from the overflow port to know when I am about to be deluged with GAS...no more useless gauge that is either full or empty and no indication in between. Damn I hated those two things. Why the hell didnt Malibu fix them? I also bought a new exhaust blower and plan to replace all three of those things when I get behind the walls in back. I also have a mystery leak....and I found the post on the HDS box leakage. I will be looking into that. I think it may have started when I hit that rock. So may need to bring the boat back to the shop (an hour and 20 drive each way!) to get it fixed. Meanwhile, my new bildge pump should take care of it! Well, thats my story. I am probably forgeting a few things but anyhow, I love this site. Thank you all for answering my posts with your ideas...I still need to change distributor cap and a few other things...what do you suggest? You uys are geniuses... THANKS

I have a 97 tantrum. The helm box, ( i think its called that) crumbled. Looking for replacement. Cable seems to be just fine but the gear box for helm fell apart. Looking for some guidance and a replacement part. Thank you!

Hey guys hoping someone can give me some guidance. Me and my buddy got this malibu skier last year and close to the end of the season started having some issues with the steering locking up. I've watched a lot of videos on YouTube and decided the cable needs to be replaced. Upon inspection I think the mounting needs to be replaced too and the rotory helm I cant make heads or tails of. I've included a lot a couple pictures, none of the replacement cables have the same ball joint so im assuming it has to be replaced anyway? Also with this rotary helm I can't seem to figure out how to remove the cable? Any tips tricks or thoughts?https://www.dropbox.com/s/e8g2xybdx8fo0h2/Snapchat-1747289636.jpg?dl=0https://www.dropbox.com/s/3u61s00hd74ofze/Snapchat-1385396199.jpg?dl=0https://www.dropbox.com/s/wrmqfjvpteenz1a/Snapchat-1325526611.jpg?dl=0https://www.dropbox.com/s/gaiazryf3n0mci7/Snapchat-1262587922.jpg?dl=0https://www.dropbox.com/s/ggtjqimsyrnvngn/Snapchat-734509210.jpg?dl=0https://www.dropbox.com/s/26l4d985o007igx/Snapchat-124843411.jpg?dl=0

What is the best option for steering for my new to me boat? Do I go back with rotary or rack and pinion? Do I need to spend the extra for the tilt helm?

I just bought my first Malibu and have a couple areas I think need attention. I feel like I have a ton of free play in the steering on my 06 23LSV. How hard is it to change/adjust the steering cable? Much appreciated!!

Hello: Have an 06 LXi. 500ish hours and no problems, until yesterday with Rudder/Steering Cable/Starter issues. Started the process for a steering cable replacement (any good DIY pic/articles/video appreciated for a LXi) and found the Rudder is nearly frozen stiff. Can the Rudder Box (I think that's what it is called, rudder goes in to/thru) be rebuilt on a RLXi? The Zerk fittings are rusted/blistered (we do use it occasionally in salt) and for sure we overlooked greasing it! Any tips on removing the rudder w/out removing the gas tank? My brother in law is (co-owner) is a solid 9/10 mechanically, so we are trying to DIY it and stay away from a whole Rudder Assembly. Any direction/plan of attack is appreciated. Thanks ! Tom