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I figured I'd get some other opinions seeing as I've been getting my butt kicked by this thing for over a year now. 2007 21 VLX with a monsoon 340 with 615 hours on it. Boat spits the service required message and shortly after that the engine fault, cylinder 8 misfire- mechanical system not responding properly code rolls in and puts the boat into limp mode. Only happens when its working hard under load (ballasts full, surfing with at least 5-6 people on board). The kicker is sometimes it will run perfect for a whole day and then the next day no dice. I have noticed when its about to act up the RPMs starts slowly dropping off not allowing the boat to keep up with whatever speed the cruise control is at before it drops right down into limp mode. The person who owned the boat before me took it to the local Malibu dealer twice for the problem and they couldn't solve it however it was winter so they couldn't lake test it. The plugs, wires, cap, rotor and fuel filter(x2) have been replaced. I put a new injector in it and it ran great for a day and half after which hasn't happened since. I've read that a bent shaft or damaged prop could throw off the knock sensors enough to throw the code but those have since been replaced. Compression in all the cylinders are good and close. I've heard the gen 2 in tank fuel pumps are only rated for 500 hours so upgrading to a gen 3 fuel pump may be next on my list although i'm hesitant because the current fuel pump still pushes 45psi at the fuel rail and it wouldn't make sense as to why it runs good sometimes. Not to mention they aint cheap. I currently have the boat in a million pieces seeing as its not surfing season in Canada for another couple months. I have the current fuel pump sitting on the bench, the screens on the bottom look clean and the inside of the tank also isnt bad. A couple specs here and there but clean for the most part. I am planning on giving it a proper clean out when i get home from work in a week. Another thing i've heard about is the lower intake gaskets on the 5.7 vortecs failing and oil making its way into the intake. There was a small oil puddle on the intake plenum when i pulled it off but i've been told to expect that with these motors? I will prob end up doing these gaskets unless I'm missing something obvious. I know it could be a timing issue i just dont have a diacom to check cam angle and i thought that would have been something the dealer looked at the second time around at least. I'm also not closing the door to it being an electrical/voltage issue . The thing came fitted with 3 batteries, a pile of speakers and a sub. I cant remember what the battery terminals looked like last year but when i cleaned them up a couple weeks ago there was a fair amount of corrosion. Sorry for the long write up! Any input would be greatly appreciated.

We have a 1997 Malibu Echelon. We are fairly certain the alternator needs to be replaced and can’t seem to find the correct replacement. We are not trying to up the amps for anything like a stereo etc. Can’t anyone point us in the right direction?

I have a 2020 23 MXZ with the new Monsoon M6Di engine. I have recently had a check engine warning and the engine diagnostics states, "Knock Retard Limit". This has been causing the engine to slow on its own and making wakeboarding impossible since it won't maintain speed for more than 10-15 seconds at a time. Spoke with Dealer and they state this is generally a fuel quality issue. I have always used 91 octane. The Manual reccomends 93 octane but I don't know where to find this?? Since this I have used 91 octane ethanol free gasoline and also bought octane booster to try and boost the octane level. I am still having the issue and the boat is now in the shop. Any thoughts?

Hey guys, I recently posted about another issue regarding fuel pressure after my engine suddenly started sputtering and conking out, and loud whine from the pump - can see more in my original thread on it. Narrowed down to fuel issue, changes filters, cleaned screens, and replaced the pump. Finally got pressure back at the rail...and now the engine won’t turn over after making these repairs... I had a marine tech come do a scan to see what it could be as it’s become beyond my level of diagnostic. He seems to think it’s the ECM. Yet it seems so coinciden diéntale my ECM would die (only 380 hours on the boat) right after solving the other problem with fuel delivery. my question is, is there anything that could have been related from the pump issue that’s causing this ? Or did my limp back to my dock after the pump initially started to go cook my engine / overheat the ECM? before replacing the pump, the engine was turning over, yet wouldn’t stay running. Now it won’t turn over at all. Marine tech thinks ECM is blocking the signal to turn over, sending 0 RPM. See link for trying to turn over while scanner is connected. We also changed the ignition module to rule that out as it was a $40 change out vs. A $1200 ECM. thoughts ? Ideas on what to narrow in on before replacing ECM? Could the new pump have changed anything (Direct Indmar replacement, only change was it doesn’t have the line to dump fuel back into tank) , or did I really fry the ecm from my limp back to the dock, and it just was ready to die anyway (even though the week after, before replacing the pump, it would start?). I’m losing my mind here and going to go broke if I have to replace every part unnecessarily !

I have a '97 Response LX with the Monsoon engine. Late in the day on Sunday, I had the throttle cable break. The cable core (wire) broke where it is crimped on to the solid leader on the throttle end of the cable. Is this a common failure? Is there any kind of repair that can be done, or do I need to replace the entire cable assembly? Can anyone help with a part number for the cable assembly? I will also need to replace the cable end that attaches to the throttle linkage (the part that threads on the cable and is cotter pinned to the throttle.) Anyone have a part number for that? Thanks so much!

Hi, I just joined the forum to get some advice. I searched for this specific question and couldn't find a thread so I'll ask here. I am shopping for a Sunsetter and found a boat I REALLY like. It's a 1998 LX. I inspected and drove it yesterday. The boat is in fantastic shape with two concerns. 1. When returning to the dock after running at speed for 20 min, i noticed loud ticking at idle. I'm not an expert mechanic but I do know a little and I think its from the valve train. Are these engines known for lifter noise? It's pretty loud. You notice it even with the motor cover down. It wasn't as loud at startup. 2. There is some "trailer rash" on the keel. Otherwise the bottom is flawless. Its to the point where the finished part of the hull has been chipped away and you can see brown underneath but its not deep and I didn't notice any water in the bilge after the test drive. Is this to be expected for a 20 year old boat? Big problem? Are these major red flags? The boat is otherwise good. It has 181 indicated hours which makes me a little concerned about dry bits in the engine. I had a '85 Nautique years ago and liked it. I'm looking at this boat for its skiing wake plus room for a few friends. I'm not really into serious wake boarding. Thanks everyone for giving this some consideration. I took video of the engine ticking but don't know how to post it. I will discuss it with a local dealer as well.

OK, so I have posted about my buddy's '04 Monsoon a few times, but it is time to start a new thread and figure it out. We went skiing last weekend and I told him that this is officially a "thing" to me now, and I want to fix it. About five years ago, I noticed that his engine acted like it had a neutral disconnect that would break the ignition momentarily when you pulled it out of gear. The engine would hesitate for just a fraction of a second and then have a tiny surge afterward. Well, it is much worse these days, and doesn't idle very well. Any change of load at idle causes a fairly large surge, up to maybe 1000 or 1200 RPM. This has become quite a nuisance when using the boat, since the idle is so unreliable that you can't take slack out of a ski line by bumping it in and out of gear, and approaching the dock gives everyone a sense of impending doom. With that said, there's a catch: it only does this if you let the engine warm up and then restart it. That's right, you can start the engine cold and run it all day and it will run perfectly the whole time as long as you never turn it off. If you start it warm, maybe one out of ten or so will work correctly. This has been verified several times over several days of several hours of skiing. He has taken the boat to three different shops (including his original dealer a few hours away), and they all do something and say it is good (he just recently discovered the cold start thing, so they probably saw it working right too). At this point, all of the stuff you will tell me to do first has already been done at least once. I told him that if he will bring the boat closer to my house (it stays about an hour away during the summer), we can start swapping parts with my engine to see when the problem moves. We have different ECMs, but most of the other stuff should change OK. I won't make a list of what *has* been done, but here are a few things I can think of that haven't: - Clean connectors at the ECM. Well, I haven't done it. I did find a pushed ground pin on the MAP sensor. - Clean and check all of the other connectors. I spread the pins on the Cannon plug this weekend, but no change at all. - Swap out the ECM temperature sender. I checked the connector, but the sender is under the cooling hose and the plenum, so it is really hard to access. - Remove the distributor and check for bad bearings. He told me that one guy did this, but I think he only checked under the cap (and replaced the module, cap, and rotor). - Remove the throttle body and check for an obstruction. I cleaned it in place, and I have diddled the idle set screw, which does lessen the symptoms a little. Fuel pressure is OK. I removed the plenum and looked under it to make sure that a mud dauber nest hadn't gotten ingested or something. Another guy removed the plenum to carve a slot to get his fuel gauge on it (stupid design). So I'll stop here, but the thing to focus on is that it runs fine all day if you don't turn it off after a cold start. That keeps saying temperature sender to me because I can't think of what else the ECM cares about from turn on to turn on.... I need to get a MEFI data reader going for this motor. Any thoughts? P.S. After typing all of this, I can see where the MAP sensor could be getting hot and not working right. Manifold pressure is measured at key on, and is probably more critical for idle than any other operating range. I think one guy changed it, because I found the pushed pin on the connector and it looks pretty new. Hmmmm.

I had the Wakesetter out last week. Two or three times after running across the lake for 20 min at about 25 mph the engine bogs down and starts to backfire a little. Sounds like it starving for gas and yes I replaced the gas filter. If you lay off the gas and idle it runs great up to about 10 mph. If you hit the gas again it does it. If you let it cool down for an hour it runs great once again. It's not repeatable so I could not get it to do it again but it happened 3 times. Some trips I opened it up all the way and ran 40 mph for a few min with no issues. At the start of 2018 season I replaced the rotor, cap and coil. I changed plugs and checked the PCV the other day (PCV seems fine). No work was done on the boat since last summer and it ran great then. I use 100 % real gas in it. Wondering what's next. Any suggestions? Anyone ever see this? Thanks

Grab a set of these to locate things. http://www.nautiquespain.es/shop/img/cms/Monsoon 5 7 411344E Combined 01-07-2014.pdf