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Found 8 results

  1. TeamTaylor373

    05/06 chrome gauge trim

    Hey everyone, new to the forum, but long time Malibu owner and forum viewer! I’ve got an issue I’m hoping someone can help me with. The chrome gauge bezel for my 06 wakesetter vlx was peeling, so I removed it to be refinished. Long story short, it got damaged and is no longer usable. I have called all the dealers I can think of and have been told this part was discontinued and that the only way to replace it is to either 1) find one that a dealer happens a to have laying around from back in the day, or 2) have a cnc shop make me a new one. I’m hoping someone on here has an idea for me, or knows where I might find one. However, I was also told by Scott at Texas Malibu that Ronnie has a machine shop and may be able to help me out as well. So Ronnie, if you read this, please reach out or let me know how I could contact you to discuss this. I know this has been discussed on here before, but so far I have found no solution. Any help would be much appreciated!
  2. weberj5596

    MDC Delete

    I bought a 99 Malibu Sportster LX from a wrecked car auction for a good price knowing I needed to replace one of the windows. Unfortunately after getting it on the water both Speedometers and the Tach would not work. All other gauges worked fine. After several different ideas to fix the problem, I narrowed it down to be most likely the MDC causing the problem… and they are $1000 now which was a bit of sticker shock. So I went on the hunt for other solutions. There is the MDC Delete kit from TRD but that came at a hefty price tag of about $1100. At least I knew I would be getting new gauges and GPS speedos to boot. However I was stuck on wanting something a bit cheaper so I DIY’ed it for just over $400. There are a handful of threads about doing a MDC Delete but none that matched my exact scenarios/wiring/etc... I followed a thread from a different forum and took updated notes along the way. Let me know if you have any questions! The gauges I purchased GPS Speedometers - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017QRHYQC?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Tach - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZ68T?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Oil Pressure - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KOVJFG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Fuel - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HNNOPS?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Temp - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZ7ZR?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 Volt - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KOVJK6?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 1. Unscrew dash 2. Unplug all wires from the back of gauges 3. Unplug rocker switches 4. Unplug check engine light and hour meter 5. I used pliers to loosen nuts on the back of the gauges then finger loosened them the rest of the way. 6. I then reattached all the mounting brackets to the gauges so they don’t get lost 7. The check engine light fell out of the dash hole. Set that aside for now 8. Remove tape and tubing from larger wiring harness bundle 9. Remove the 5 pin, 18 pin, and speedo connectors from Mdc. Mine had a 1/4” bolt on the 18 pin 10. Remove the mdc (mine had 3 Phillips head screws Mine appears bent/broken… potentially causing the gauge issue I had 11. Pull the mdc harness plugs up into the gauge area 12. Disconnect gauge harness from the boat harness. 13. Remove all tubing 14. Cut off the gauge connectors (I left a little wire incase I needed to use the connectors again… in hindsight this was not necessary and having the longer blue wire would have been a better idea) You will now be left with 2 separate harnesses. One connected to the 5pin mdc connector and 1 connected to the boat harness connector and 18pin MDC connector 15. Cut off the 5 pin and 18 pin harness connectors (this will leave you with a bunch of stand alone wires and a bunch of wires still attached to the 9 pin connector that re-plugs into the boat Note* Once the 5 pin harness connector is cut you will be left with 2 brown wires, a bundle of black, bundle of red/white and a bundle of yellow. 16. Remove yellow wire entirely - this is the signal wire that came from the MDC which is no longer used. 17. Remove brown wires entirely… these were for the left and right speedo adjusters (I don’t need these in my setup anymore with gps speedos) 18.Strip and crimp connectors on each dark blue wire. These will be for the backlights on the gauges. The gauges I purchased require spade connectors. 19. Butt splice the black bundle or wires to the black from the 9 pin connector. I removed a couple feed of wire here… the wiring no longer has to go down to the mdc and then back up again 20. Butt splice the bundle of red/white to the purple from the 9 pin connector. (Again I removed excess) 21. The orange wire is not used. I chose to butt splice and keep the wire incase I need it in the future. Not sure what it’s for 22. I was waiting for my gauges and ring terminals to arrive in the mail so I finished my harness using old tubing and put new tape on. Each bundle is for a single gauge. The bundle on the left is the excess unused wire from the harness (additional positives, negatives, and light wires plus the orange that I don’t know what it’s for) I did this incase I add any other gauges in the future I don’t have to rework the whole harness. Here is what I bundled together Fuel - Red, black, blue, pink Oil pressure - Red, black, blue, light blue Volt - Red, black, blue Temp - Red, black, blue, brown Tach - Red, black, blue, gray Speedo 1 - Red, black, blue Speedo 2 - Red, black, blue Extra - all remaining wires *Note the gps speedos recommend having a power wire straight from the battery (not keyed) but I didn’t have those in my harness so I will be using a small jumper wire to jump keyed power to the signal terminal on the speedos. All this means for me is the speedos will need to reconnect to the satellite everytime I shut down… something I will likely want to fix in the future… also as I write this wondering if the orange wires are for this purpose? I’ll check on that! 23. Install all of the gauges in the panel 24. I missed a few pictures here but I added all of the ring terminals and installed the harness on the gauges. Note I have one gauge that has a bit of a messy splice I needed due to wires being a bit short (problem would have been avoided had I not left extra wires on the connectors I cut off earlier) I just used some random wire… do as I say not as I do! 25. Hook up the wiring harness back to the harness in the boat as well as the check engine light and hour meter 26. Reattach the dash. *Note my speedos read 5MPH while looking for GPS Signal and then return to zero. The picture shows them during that initializing stage. Overall a bit time consuming yet fairly simple task. If I could have found a new 9 pin connector that matched the boat connector I would have built a harness completely from scratch. There was barely enough wire in the harness for the light connectors and some of the signal wires. But it still worked.
  3. Have a 99 Sunsetter LX w/ the Monsoon. Having an issue where all my electric on the dash goes in & out. Its slowly gotten worse with time. This year starting out, the gauges don't work, the blower didn't work, & even the radio. The Battery was fully charged, the boat starts right up with no issues, even when none of the things on the dash are working. After getting up to speed all the sudden, everything will start working, but will then all of it will keep randomly cutting on & off. Is this most likely a ground issue? Or the computer going out (I know that it can be with gauges, but it doesn't make sense to me with the blower & radio also not working, they shouldn't be running thru the computer, are they? I don't have a battery switch on it. Appreciate any feedback . Thanks
  4. Hi all! New to the boating community! I just purchased a 1998 Sunsetter LXI with less than 300 hours on it. It has a fuel injected Monsoon 320 engine in it. When I dropped it in the lake for the 1st time a month ago, it ran great! All the gauges, motor, pumps, etc. When I took it out this past weekend, I lost power to certain gauges, but not all. My clock, depth finder still had power, but my oil, fuel, engine temp, tach, and speedometer all stopped working? I tried tracing electrical but I thing I am not looking in the right spots or missing some. I found the fuses located in line coming off the engine, and all fine there. I tried resetting breakers but none tripped. I also check the fuses under the dash and nothing appeared to be blown. Am I missing something? Is there a wiring guide anywhere? Please help! Do I need a new board? I've read that the mmdc board might be bad? But where and what does it look like? Thanks for any contributions.
  5. I bought an 08 VLX with just over 400 hours about 4 months ago. The next day we splashed it and went for a ride in the cold. After the first ride the plug was not taken out & here in southern Alabama it rained...a lot. When I got in the boat to get some gear out it was full of water. It was above the oil pan. so I took the plug out drain the water checked the dipstick & noticed some water. (no water in cylinders) I turned the boat over, did not try to crank it, just to make sure I still had electrical connection. I took it straight to a marine repair to I have them fully drain all of the oil from the pan plug and do this 3 times to make sure all the water was out. When he cranked the boat up for the last time he couldn’t get it to shut off so he changed the key ignition switch. (Oil & key switch, $796) I was told by the original owner that you always need to switch the batteries breaker to OFF, or it will drain them. I told the mechanic this. So when we splashed the boat yesterday yesterday the batteries were dead. I jumped it off. We went cruising and boarding and I noticed that most gauges weren’t working and I was getting the occasional beeping with code “system fault“. Most of the gauges started registering about two hours later, on our way back to the dock. When I unloaded everyone and sent my wife to splash the trailer, I couldn’t turn the boat off. I had to open the motor bay and pull the distributor wire ( nothing like a little jolt⚡️ of electricity to get you woken up and pissed off.) I’ve got some electrical issues and wanted to know if anyone has had experience with these and can give me a good place to start. I am new to Malibu and inboard motors in general. But I do have a mechanical understanding so I’m going to try this myself. THX IN ADVANCE!!
  6. Hey gang, I’ve looked through the other threads and seen some good things to start with but wanted to ask about mine specifically. My speedometer on my 2000 Sunsetter VLX is stuck all the way over at full speed. Never moves or twitches or anything. My boat came with a perfect pass that does not work either and I’m fairly certain I’ve bypassed it out of the system but any thoughts on fixing the speedo?
  7. Figured I would get some boat project done while we are all stuck @ home. My Tach gauge is not working properly. It is "off", the needle now rest / starts @ 5300 instead of 0. Even with the key off it rest @ 5300. When you start the boat it moves with the throttle, but of course gets pegged out pretty quick. The hour meter in the tach gauge still works correctly. Any ideas? besides replace the gauge itself? 99 Sunsetter LX w/ the monsoon engine Thanks
  8. I have recently purchased a 2002 Malibu Response LX with the LS1. Runs great, but the gauges give me poor readings. -Tach will sometimes lay dead, then will jump up to operating speed -Oil pressure bounces around -Fuel gauge will give me a reading that I think is "right". Then shows 1/8 of a tank. Even when full. All else seems to work. Thanks in advance, Ryan
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