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I have a 2005 23 lsv with a manual wedge. I really like the wave that the boat puts out when wedge is down but yesterday the wedge broke off where the bolts connect to the arms. The foil was completely gone and one arm was bent. I took the foil assembly off and we kept surfing the rest of the day without the wedge. The wave was still pretty good considering we had some fat sacs in the rear locker, but definitely not the size it was before. I looked everywhere I knew to look for a new manual wedge but couldn’t find one. Does anybody have any info on how to get a wedge, or if an auto floating wedge will work on the same bracket as the manual wedge? Or if I should just put more weight in the boat and do without the wedge? Like I said I wasn’t completely unhappy with how the wave looked without the wedge and I definitely could add a few more ballast bags.

Looking to add a second set of speakers to my Malibu 21 VLX. Who has done this and has recommendations? Should I add the same wet sound speakers or upgrade the whole system. Don’t love the quality of sound. Any thoughts or suggestions welcome.

New boat to us and wanted to share what we figured out on ballast setup on this beast! We have 1,100 lb bags in each locker and a tube sac in the ski locker which I believe is 340 lbs or so. Tons more room so may upgrade that soon, we also have an open bow sac up front. so far we’ve gotten the best wave with 4 people in boat and everything full and wedge down at 11.2mph. Speed control is off based on god on my phone, so I ordered a nauticlogic to use GPS, but this is close to best speed. We use a SWELL H3X plus wake shaper extended out around halfway or so from max. Here’s a few pics: Wave 1 Goofy wave video anyone have any better ideas or tips for us? Had this about 2 weeks

Good evening everyone! I've been a long time lurker here - this forum's been incredibly helpful since I bought my 2006 Wakesetter LSV about three years ago. During dewinterization this year, I definitely let a bit of oil in the bilge, tried to mop it up. I've been chasing down a leak or two that have been relatively easy to identify - the cross hose between the two exhaust manifolds and whatnot. However, there's one I can't quite identify. On the front port side of my engine, towards the top, I have a little bit of a leak now and again coming from what appears to be an upper part of my engine. The water that's been collecting in the bilge has had an oily sheen, but I'm still not sure if it's residue from my oil filter change or if it's oily water itself (though doesn't quite seem to be). Anyways, here's the link to the video and a few pictures: https://photos.app.goo.gl/vADGkEvdtCJh8qz3A Request help and perhaps anything I can do about it! Thanks!

Small touchscreen acting up again. Stereo functions not working. This is my 2nd one that was replaced on my 2016 LSV 23 under warranty in 2017. My Viper II software version reads: MY2016 - v10-2016 V2 1) is this latest update 2). Any suggestions to fix stereo functions? I’m assuming it may be beginning of more problems with that. The volume knob does not work with the volume either but does work with wedge and surfgate.

Help .. family looking at buying a wakesetter .. we have found two that we like one is a 2006 Malibu Wakesetter 21 VLX with no wedge details here a 2006 VLX with INDMAR 320 horse power LCR engine; 5.7 MPI EFI (21 foot) The boat runs extremely well, the entire boat has been re-upholstered and major new fit out in 2018. Entire new trim, new manifold and rises, new prop shaft and seals on last service. All new water ballast pumps fitted on last service. Fitted with ALKO air over hydraulic power assist trailer breaking system. And fitted with a new disc break axle (replaced original drum system) Key features; Illusion tower with Bimini Double wake board rack that fits 4 boards, along with a wake surf rack Fitted with dual batteries Brand new Fusion speaker’s, with axis bluetooth deck and a kicker base control for the subwoofer speaker Boat has 376 hours only since 2006 Fits 11 people and the other is a 2007 Malibu VLX wakesetter with 550 hours on the clock, Malibu wake tower fitted with two tower speakers and Bimini, it’s advertised as a anniversary edition but doesn’t have the 383 engine question is my wife still waterskis ..which one is the best to ski behind ? Wedge or wedgeless one ?? Can it be done or the wakes too big ? anyone water ski behind one ?? Help me please it’s doing my head in cheers Luke

Looking at purchasing a 1988 Malibu original wakesetter but have one question I can’t seem to answer. How many people is the boat rated for ?

Hi folks, long time no talk! Well, I just installed a new engine in my Bu. Yes, a new engine! got I got tired sick of my cilinder heads failing and I my old engine in my wakesetter 2010 had 2500 hours on it ! so I'm a happy camper with a 2010 with cero horas on it . HOWEVER after I finish installing the new engine and everything went ok, I find out that the screw that goes from the axis of the tower and bolt into the silver pipe is broken! yes, bad luck I guess? the screw that broke is on that has a "hole" in the head (where the screw of the axis of the tower get in to hold together the tower) has died. first question is, where the heck can I get that bolt with that "O" shape?? second question, has anyone has ever taken apart the tower??? any recomendation?? It does not seem like it is happening a lot, so must be bad luck. My machanic, blames the 6 exile that I have on the tower...the reality is that I need to fix it and honestrly don't know where to start or to get the spare part I need. I guess is I take it all apart should be able to replace it. put it back together must be a nice challenge. so ANY HELP or advise (besides do not put speakers on the tower) will be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance, Gabriel

I am looking to purchase a used wakesetter. Can anyone tell me the major differences between the 2016 LSV and the 2019 LSV? Hull, engine, torque, design, etc? Thanks. Matt

I've got a 2014 23 LSV with the LS3. I've been battling engine codes all summer, which has caused me to miss the boating season. The dealer can't seem to figure out the problem, yet keeps charging me as they throw ideas at it. I'm hoping to learn a little more about the codes from the experts here to see if I can help steer the techs in the right direction, and also arm myself for an argument with the dealer on getting charged each time they try to fix it. The first time I took my boat out after winterization this year, I got these codes about 5 minutes after I started the boat up: SPN: 66020 FMI: 8 Abnormal frequency or pulse width SPN: 66017 FMI:5 Current below normal or open circuit The dealer (not the one I'm going to now, I moved across the country this summer) replaced a fuel pump based on info from the code reader, which ended up costing me about $600. I moved right after that repair. I took the boat out for about 2 hours after the move and everything was great until the very end where the exact same codes came back. I took it to a dealer in my new hometown (the one I'm dealing with now) and they replaced an O2 sensor based on the code reader results. They ran it on a hose for an hour and it was fine. That cost me another $500. I took it out again for a few hours and again, everything was good until the very end and codes came up again. This time, one was different and the other was the same: SPN:65594 FMI:7 Mechanical system not responding properly SPN:66017 FMI:5 Current below normal or open circuit I took it in again and they said the codes correspond to a misfire. They replaced the spark plugs, and also claim the ECM connector was loose. They took it out on the lake for an hour and it was fine. I won't be able to take it out until next year since the season is over here. What I'm hoping you all can help me with: 1) Is the SPN:66017 FMI:5 indicative of a problem that hasn't been addressed? Or is it a secondary code that is being thrown because of the first one? (SPN:66020 and SPN:65594) 2) Does the O2 sensor make sense as something that could address the SPN:66020 code? 3) Does it make sense that SPN:65594 (along with SPN:66017) would be a completely new issue? Or could it be related to the original issue? 4) Would SPN:65594 be addressed by simply replacing spark plugs? Or could it be just a loose ECM connector? 5) Would the dealer have to remove the ECM connector for the previous attempts to fix the problem? (i.e. could the new issue truly be another issue that was underneath the other, or was it induced by them trying to fix the original issue)? 6) Based on what has been done so far, do you think the issue has been addressed and wont come back? Or do you think it will show up again in the spring? 7) Have any of you been charged for a lake test of a fix that you didnt authorize? They are trying to charge me $125 to check their work, which seems absurd to me, especially since they keep charging me labor when their fix doesnt work I'm really feeling at a loss for how to get my boat fixed, so I appreciate anything you can do to help clarify this for me. This has been a frustrating and expensive process and I'm not sure what else to do! Dealers don't seem to be able to fix it, and they don't seem to care that it is costing me a fortune to try to fix it. Thanks in advance for the help and advice! -Bill

What if price was basically the same for a new 2019 A22 and a Demo MLX 2. Pros and cons anyone, what would you chose and why?

This is my first time posting to this board and I have read quite a few posts about temperatures and overheating but I wanted to get a little more clarification on what is normal behavior. I recently purchased a 2008 Malibu Wakesetter VLX (5.7 Indmar Monsoon 340) this summer and the first time out I had some issues overheating. The boat entered "limp" mode that restricted rpms on the engine and temperature got hot enough to melt the plastic elbows where the hoses connect to the exhaust. I don't know what the exact temperature the boat reached at this time but I did not run it too long when it got hot and once the elbows melted we shut everything off and got towed into dock. After that incident I took the boat into a local marine shop and they replaced the elbows with brass elbows and replaced my impeller because there was a tear in it and they believed that would fix my overheating issues. After reading this forum I decided to buy a new 160* thermostat replacement and replaced the thermostat myself because it was easy enough and cheap enough to do. (I also tried testing as some suggested by putting the thermostat in a pot of water and see if it functions correctly but saw no noticeable difference when it got up to temperature. I don't understand what part "opens and closes" on it.) Anyway I assumed the new part I bought was good and installed it. Yesterday I took the boat out and would watch the temperature gauge on the boat fluctuate a lot between 160-200. It would never stay around 200 very long and would go back down to 160-170 range and then climb back up. So I don't know if this means that I have a faulty gauge and that worries me because then I don't know how hot it actually is. I know it once beeped and let me know that it had reached 201* but that happened for about 2 seconds before it "cooled" again. Other than the gauge fluctuating a lot it seemed to perform fine as in I never entered "limp" mode. The exhausts I think are too hot to touch and if I splash some lake water on them after recently shutting down the engine the water sizzles. So my main questions here are: Does the temperature normally fluctuate like that? Do I have a problem here? If so, what other things should I do after my list below? For reference I live in altitude (~5280) and air temperature yesterday was 79* and water was 76*. If you guys agree that my temperature is a problem I would guess my next course of actions would be: Use IR gun to measure and see if gauge is accurate Check for blockage on the transcooler (I have sort of done this but not sure if there is a blockage where it would occur. Is it adequate to just disconnect the hose from the transcooler to the thermostat housing and inspect that or do I need to remove more than that and check?) Pull the circulation pump and inspect it Thanks for any help, Ryan

My 2010 Wakesetter VTX starter motor stopped working today and I’m planning on fixing it myself. I’m having trouble finding information online about the location of the starter and how to change it. Does anyone have any pictures, diagrams, or any way to help me? Thank you. Edit: Is the starter with part number 571006 the official part or a knockoff?

2016 wakesetter 23lsv has a garden hose connection on the transom of the boat. What is this used for and how do you use it?

Sorry for yet another “help me choose my boat” post, but this one is tricky for me. I have not been in the water in a long time, and just bought a house on a lake. I used to wakeboard growing up behind anything I could, and looking to also start again as well as begin wake surfing. My wife Did not grow up on water, so doesn’t really care, other than having it be a good reliable, long lasting family boat within our budget ($30k..ish). We have 2 small children with cousins that will be coming over. So I have concerns about size on the VRide. So the options are a 2005 Wakesetter 23 LSV with just over 500 hrs. Nothing really seems updates except an extra 750 fat sac. Good condition, no big tears or seam rips, Gel Coat is supposedly in good condition. Tandem axel trailer. This is Not from a dealer, but an individual that is 3.5 hrs away. Price is $35k, which is actually a little over budget. I would have to get local marina to do any testing (I.e compression) We don’t have a truck, so I would have to rent one. The second option is an ‘08 VRide. Has the tower, manual wedge, two 200lb and one 500lb ballast. This is from a dealer about 2 hrs away, who is willing to deliver. They are running through the boat, replacing some things like Ballast pumps, did compression testing, cleaning, etc. pretty good condition, with a little dock rash, a small split in a seam, new custom cover and Bimini, also mid 500 hr range. Price $31k.

Hey everyone, I am a year old Wakesetter owner - dug into the forum last fall for winterizing advice and was impressed with the quality of information all around!! This spring rolls around and I’ve got some issues with my 2008 Wakesetter XTI, Indmar Monsoon 5.7L 340. Hoping to get some ideas! The issue first became evident when I smelled a burning rubber smell after cruising WOT for about 5 minutes. Upon investigation I found a hole in the rubber exhaust tubing - which appeared to be dry rot or aging of some sort. I replaced the hose, and next time out all seems to be going fine until I have issues making full power and get the burning rubber smell again. I had burned another hole in the new tubing, and now was only able to get 3500rpm and about 33-34MPH. The hole is in the underside of the port side softwall exhaust tubing - a couple inches aft of where it connects to the exhaust manifold, so I have to assume its hot exhaust gas hitting the hose directly with little cooling. It is worth noting that there was water spurting out of the hole both times it happened, but not a significant amount. Photos of Hose Here - Google photos album link After about 10 hours searching the forums I decided to do a few simple things first... 1) replaced impeller and checked transmission cooler and all lines for debris- which I did find a fair amount of seaweed and 1 rubber fin from the old impeller. 2) replace the fuel filter- the screw off in tank filter (I think that’s the only one I have) 3) replace the exhaust hose again After these repairs, I fired up and checked a few of the hoses to make sure I was getting water flowing through the system - and as far as I could tell, it was running fine. However, as I was idling the engine got up to about 150 degrees, but immediately dropped back to 120 once I put it in gear and increased RPM slightly. Hoping the issue is resolved at this point. All is normal as I slowly continue to add power, until I get to WOT at 4900rpm...and I’m only going 33MPH with the engine is running at 160 degrees. After slowing to idle I feel the exhaust tubing and it feels extremely hot again - like it’s about to melt a third time. I back off the power and limp back home dejected and frustrated. I'm going to do a more in depth check of the cooling system tomorrow, to verify I’m getting water in all areas but that still doesn’t address the top end speed. Oil is fresh and proper level, transmission fluid has not been changed but is leveled properly. Any thoughts or directions I can investigate?? Thanks in advance!

I’m currently looking at a 2007 wakesetter vtx with 440 hours on it, perfect pass, ballasts, the norm for asking price of 36k usd was wondering what everybody thought, boat is in very good to excellent condition and has been in fresh water and stored indoors and covered it’s entire life. Private seller so ideally would like to get him down 2k if possible. Thoughts?