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Hello friends! Last weekend I added a hot water shower to my 2018 22 VLX. The electrical is currently wired with the hot lead coming from the 10 amp circuit underneath the throttle followed by a rocker switch. The ground from the bus bar under the helm. Unfortunately, the 10 amp hot lead labeled shower found under the throttle is always hot (provided the battery is on). This is problematic as sometimes I forget to turn the battery selector to off and I would hate for the shower switch to remain on and drain my battery. I would prefer that the shower could only run when the system/malview is turned on. The plan is to add a relay after the 10 amp circuit however I'm unsure where to get a trigger for the relay that will only be hot when the system is up and running. Any best practices or suggestions?

Hey all, I have a 2017 VTX with the 410 Raptor Motor. New boat to me this summer and need to do the winterization. I've winterized our inboard for years so I get the process but its an all raw water system and not the closed cooling system this boat has. I'm confident after reading the Indmar manual I can get the water out of the engine cooling loop but have some questions about how best to handle some of the accessories. 1) Is the heater core indeed on the antifreeze side of the motor and not full of raw lake water that will freeze. I think this is the case and found the black connections in top of the block with the stickers noting "to heater" and "from heater" but cannot find any solid information confirming this. 2) There is a factory shower. This is a new feature for me and wondering if there are tricks to eliminate the water from it. I found the hose (clear braided plastic hose with red/blue stripes) that appears to go from the shower to bottom of the heat exchanger on the "hot" side. Can I simply disconnect and blow air? Do I need to turn on the pump and suck anti-freeze through? Does it drain itself if I just turn the pump on? Thanks in advance for any advise.

Hey all, I have a 2017 VTX with the 410 Raptor Motor. New boat to me this summer and need to do the winterization. I've winterized our inboard for years so I get the process but its an all raw water system and not the closed cooling system this boat has. I'm confident after reading the Indmar manual I can get the water out of the engine cooling loop but have some questions about how best to handle some of the accessories. 1) Is the heater core indeed on the antifreeze side of the motor and not full of raw lake water that will freeze. I think this is the case and found the black connections in top of the block with the stickers noting "to heater" and "from heater" but cannot find any solid information confirming this. 2) There is a factory shower. This is a new feature for me and wondering if there are tricks to eliminate the water from it. I found the hose (clear braided plastic hose with red/blue stripes) that appears to go from the shower to bottom of the heat exchanger on the "hot" side. Can I simply disconnect and blow air? Do I need to turn on the pump and suck anti-freeze through? Does it drain itself if I just turn the pump on? Thanks in advance for any advise.

I bought a 2014 23 LSV two weeks ago. The original owner said the "only thing on the boat that doesn't work is the shower....it's the pump." Well, took it out last weekend and sure enough, it doesn't work. Not 100% sure if I am getting power to it. I order a new pump from Bakes (still has yet to ship) but the BIG problem is that I took it to get inspected at Lake Tahoe for invasive species and couldn't get water to come out the shower head, which is a requirement. I literally CUT out the pump and still couldn't get and water to come out of the hot or the cold. The back the of the pump had black and red wires that were connect but there was a white wire that was cut short and not connected to anything. It there a way to bypass the shower? When I do get the shower pump, is the white wire necessary?