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  1. weberj5596

    MDC Delete

    I bought a 99 Malibu Sportster LX from a wrecked car auction for a good price knowing I needed to replace one of the windows. Unfortunately after getting it on the water both Speedometers and the Tach would not work. All other gauges worked fine. After several different ideas to fix the problem, I narrowed it down to be most likely the MDC causing the problem… and they are $1000 now which was a bit of sticker shock. So I went on the hunt for other solutions. There is the MDC Delete kit from TRD but that came at a hefty price tag of about $1100. At least I knew I would be getting new gauges and GPS speedos to boot. However I was stuck on wanting something a bit cheaper so I DIY’ed it for just over $400. There are a handful of threads about doing a MDC Delete but none that matched my exact scenarios/wiring/etc... I followed a thread from a different forum and took updated notes along the way. Let me know if you have any questions! The gauges I purchased GPS Speedometers - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017QRHYQC?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Tach - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZ68T?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Oil Pressure - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KOVJFG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Fuel - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005HNNOPS?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Temp - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZ7ZR?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 Volt - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KOVJK6?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 1. Unscrew dash 2. Unplug all wires from the back of gauges 3. Unplug rocker switches 4. Unplug check engine light and hour meter 5. I used pliers to loosen nuts on the back of the gauges then finger loosened them the rest of the way. 6. I then reattached all the mounting brackets to the gauges so they don’t get lost 7. The check engine light fell out of the dash hole. Set that aside for now 8. Remove tape and tubing from larger wiring harness bundle 9. Remove the 5 pin, 18 pin, and speedo connectors from Mdc. Mine had a 1/4” bolt on the 18 pin 10. Remove the mdc (mine had 3 Phillips head screws Mine appears bent/broken… potentially causing the gauge issue I had 11. Pull the mdc harness plugs up into the gauge area 12. Disconnect gauge harness from the boat harness. 13. Remove all tubing 14. Cut off the gauge connectors (I left a little wire incase I needed to use the connectors again… in hindsight this was not necessary and having the longer blue wire would have been a better idea) You will now be left with 2 separate harnesses. One connected to the 5pin mdc connector and 1 connected to the boat harness connector and 18pin MDC connector 15. Cut off the 5 pin and 18 pin harness connectors (this will leave you with a bunch of stand alone wires and a bunch of wires still attached to the 9 pin connector that re-plugs into the boat Note* Once the 5 pin harness connector is cut you will be left with 2 brown wires, a bundle of black, bundle of red/white and a bundle of yellow. 16. Remove yellow wire entirely - this is the signal wire that came from the MDC which is no longer used. 17. Remove brown wires entirely… these were for the left and right speedo adjusters (I don’t need these in my setup anymore with gps speedos) 18.Strip and crimp connectors on each dark blue wire. These will be for the backlights on the gauges. The gauges I purchased require spade connectors. 19. Butt splice the black bundle or wires to the black from the 9 pin connector. I removed a couple feed of wire here… the wiring no longer has to go down to the mdc and then back up again 20. Butt splice the bundle of red/white to the purple from the 9 pin connector. (Again I removed excess) 21. The orange wire is not used. I chose to butt splice and keep the wire incase I need it in the future. Not sure what it’s for 22. I was waiting for my gauges and ring terminals to arrive in the mail so I finished my harness using old tubing and put new tape on. Each bundle is for a single gauge. The bundle on the left is the excess unused wire from the harness (additional positives, negatives, and light wires plus the orange that I don’t know what it’s for) I did this incase I add any other gauges in the future I don’t have to rework the whole harness. Here is what I bundled together Fuel - Red, black, blue, pink Oil pressure - Red, black, blue, light blue Volt - Red, black, blue Temp - Red, black, blue, brown Tach - Red, black, blue, gray Speedo 1 - Red, black, blue Speedo 2 - Red, black, blue Extra - all remaining wires *Note the gps speedos recommend having a power wire straight from the battery (not keyed) but I didn’t have those in my harness so I will be using a small jumper wire to jump keyed power to the signal terminal on the speedos. All this means for me is the speedos will need to reconnect to the satellite everytime I shut down… something I will likely want to fix in the future… also as I write this wondering if the orange wires are for this purpose? I’ll check on that! 23. Install all of the gauges in the panel 24. I missed a few pictures here but I added all of the ring terminals and installed the harness on the gauges. Note I have one gauge that has a bit of a messy splice I needed due to wires being a bit short (problem would have been avoided had I not left extra wires on the connectors I cut off earlier) I just used some random wire… do as I say not as I do! 25. Hook up the wiring harness back to the harness in the boat as well as the check engine light and hour meter 26. Reattach the dash. *Note my speedos read 5MPH while looking for GPS Signal and then return to zero. The picture shows them during that initializing stage. Overall a bit time consuming yet fairly simple task. If I could have found a new 9 pin connector that matched the boat connector I would have built a harness completely from scratch. There was barely enough wire in the harness for the light connectors and some of the signal wires. But it still worked.
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