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Found 7 results

  1. Guys, here is my story. I bought the boat new at the Detroit boat show in 2001. Its a 2001 Malibu Sunsetter LXI with a couple options; the fuel injected Monsoon 350 Indmar engine, additional sound proofing, wood dash trim and wheel , and the wedge. My oldest kid was 10 (I have 4) and it was a great time to get a boat for the family. Long story short, its been a fabulous thing for the family. Kids are all skiers and we spend much time together. Well, its been 8 years and the boat has 600 hrs on it. Its never had anything mechanical go wrong with it....nothing. I simply changed the oil and occassionally the plugs. Once in a while I had a shop change the transmission oil, for which they usually robbed me for 75 bucks or so. Well, last fall I finally hurt the boat. Hit a big rock and screwed up the running equipment. 6k in damage including shaft, rudder, bearing strut, prop. So when I finally got it back, knowing that it was like new, I decided to get on all the things that were not perfect, and fix them. Then I would be happy my boat was like new again. So I found this site and started to read. I changed my trans fluid myself for the first time. That sure was easy. Got 8$ handpump from store and it took 5 minutes to pump the 2 quarts out through the dipstick and refill. saved some bucks. Now will prob change every yr or two. Seats were pulling apart at seams in some places. I had replaced one skin myself and it cost a fortune, so I read here about just getting them resewn. Found a local upolstery shop and had em done. Charged me like 30 bucks a seat. Looks like new now. Bilge pump stopped working. Found out how to find and repair or replace it on this site. Got access to it thru the four simple screws holding the cover plate against the front of the engine compartment (near ski plyon) , pulled the top off to check for debris in bottom, found none, but little plastic impeller spinner was stuck fast. I turned it by hand and it snapped loose, now it worked again. But I know it needs replaced so I got online to buy a new one. Old one was Gaurdian 500, replaced by new 750 gal per hr unit (I forget...Attwood Shurline I think) for like 60 bucks. It is largest unit with same output size line. 3/4 inch I think. Another thing that bugged me, my Ski pylon head wouldn't turn anymore. Used small paint putty knife to insert under edge of the plastic top cap, gently tapping w small hammer. Was easy to pop head off. Loosened center set screw, unscrewed bolt with socket wrench, rinsed the bearing unit in fuel, repacked with grease, cleaned all surfaces with gas to remove old hard grease, and put it back together (bolt down almost tight, then put set screw in to hold the bolt just off a hard seat, which allows the unit to spin nicely). 10 or 15 minute job. Learned that WOT (wide open throttle) for engine top end was 5200 rpm for the 350 MPI monsoon. Bought new prop online and it runs 5100 RPM on my boat. Great hole shot, nice wake. Cutter 4 blade 13x12.5 stainless. (I am one of the few folks here running a 4 blade.) If you search the site you will find a thread with a compiled excel spreadsheet of all the props that people are running on their boats and what WOT and speed they developed with them, and this will help you get a great prop. Changed the fuel filter. On my boat its in the back, under the deck hatch, behind the wall (against back seat area) just left of center on fuel line. Its an inline filter and simple to replace. The hard part is unscrewing all the screws holding the wall and floor liner in...use a power drill grasshopper. After all the undercarriage damage from the rock was repaired, the Boat came back to me with the steering wheel off center. It was 90 degree off center when the boat ran straight. Boy that pissed me off. Dont they check that when they fix your boat? So I learned here to run straight on lake, stop boat with wheel in whatever position its in when boat is straight, grab 7/16 socket, go under the wheel (under the dash), and you see the teleflex steering rack (black rectangular thing). Its got 4 bolts clamping it to the steering wheel shaft. Take the four bolts out, pull the black rack away from the wheel ( unless you also take off the bracing strut that helps support the rack...the strut is bolted to one of the four bolts, you will have to sort of twist the rack up and away from the wheel shaft), so that the wheel is disengaged with the rack, and then re-center wheel in new spot, then twist rack back down so its seated on wheel shaft and then retightin the bolts. Simple. Also, when it came back from the rock repairs, it pulled like a mother to the right. So I read here that the rudder could be adjusted via the rudder trim tab, or ground carefully if no tab, to adjust the amount of pull. If your a serious course skier, you might like the pull because it takes the slack out of the system and gives you a nice hard straight line. Well, I prefer a slight pull since I am not a serious skier and prefer a nice smooth easy steering wheel operation; a sunday cruise with beer in hand feel. Boat was pulling HARD to right, so I loosened the two set screws on the right side of the rudder, moved the tab out so that its tail end (the rear of the little hydrofoil) was just barely sticking out on the right side, then tightened it back down. That made a huge difference. Boat tracks nice but now has only a slight pull and I can drive with my fingers again, with my other hand gently holding a precious beer. Also after the rock repair, when I took it out for a run, I lifted the back flooring to check shaft seal drip rate. It was running very wet with a fast drip rate. So I learned on site that a slow drip rate, maybe 3 or 4 a minute would be more usual, so I used a spanner wrench and a small pipe wrench to back off the thin lock nut, then tightened the big nut down about 90 degrees (quarter turn) and retightened the lock nut against it. this reduced the drip to a much lower rate. Caution, if you make it too tight and it fails to drip at all, it will heat up....and maybe ruin your packing seal. It needs to drip slowly. Then, my stereo head unit was acting up...CD player ate a CD. I found on this site a recommendation for an APLINE 9886 head unit with full ipod functionality. I bought it online cheaply (couple hundred bucks). It has 3 sets of prepamp outs and a million features. Its awesome. I pulled out the old HU, striped the old wires, twisted and soldered and electrical taped the new pigtail in, and dropped the HU in place. WOW. Its awesome. It was easy but a little time consuming to solder all the connections. I am going to put in an amp next. A good spot for a subwoofer box is in front of the drivers feet. Quite a bit of room back there. For myself, I want nice sound but not a 12" woofer. My wife wouldnt let me play the stereo if I cranked it (lol...yeah I am married). So I got on Polk website and they have instructions for woofer boxes of all types. I may put in a 8" or maybe 10" woofer and small box in right upper corner, in front of drivers feet. Looks like will fit easily and no need to build a mounting wall. I sanded and re-oiled the teak deck (I do this a couple times a year anyhow). It never gets too bad since I always trailer the boat and keep in in the garage. My trailer has a swing tongue. So as if all that wasnt enough, last few nights I learned a few very very important things on this site by browsing...one, I can fix the damn gas tank!!! We all know the Malibu gas gauge is freakin useless!!! Well, I finally found the post on installing a new "teleflex fuel sender" on the tank. Damn I am excited. Also, I found the thread on the new fuel check valve to install to keep the fuel tank from overflowing and pumping fuel out the overflow port all over everything. I bought them both at 1am last night from "discount inboard marine". 75$ for the checkvalve and 29 for the fuel sender. Wow am I excited. No more listening to the gurgle from the overflow port to know when I am about to be deluged with GAS...no more useless gauge that is either full or empty and no indication in between. Damn I hated those two things. Why the hell didnt Malibu fix them? I also bought a new exhaust blower and plan to replace all three of those things when I get behind the walls in back. I also have a mystery leak....and I found the post on the HDS box leakage. I will be looking into that. I think it may have started when I hit that rock. So may need to bring the boat back to the shop (an hour and 20 drive each way!) to get it fixed. Meanwhile, my new bildge pump should take care of it! Well, thats my story. I am probably forgeting a few things but anyhow, I love this site. Thank you all for answering my posts with your ideas...I still need to change distributor cap and a few other things...what do you suggest? You uys are geniuses... THANKS
  2. Hello Crew, I have a 2019 M6DI motor and today it started throwing a SPN: 94 FMI: 0 alarm. high rail fuel pressure at idle. Once on plane the code goes away. Pressure on the eng diagnostics page reads 88-90 psi at idle then drops to 80-84 psi underload. 1. Any ideas as to the issue and what the proper range is? Can't find it anywhere. 2. Will it hurt to keep using the boat? Only have a couple days left on this trip. Thanks for you help!
  3. Hi everyone, I've got a 2000 Sunsetter and the fuel pump has no power to it. I've run the wires back and it appears the power comes through the 3 pin pressure switch. The pump spins fine and the wires are good but no power coming through. any suggestions where the problem could be?? None of the breakers have tripped. Could it be in the starter? Thanks - I hope
  4. We bought a 2019 23 LSV last year brand new in August. We have been having issue after issue. Anywhere from latches breaking, having to have the battery replaced 2 months later, to the battery draining itself and putting boat in after having it out from the previous weekend and it wouldn't start. In June we were surfing with our daughter behind the boat when the engine cut off. It didn't want to crank and then finally did, then half way home it just quit. We had to be towed in. The dealer came out and "fixed" it, for us to get back in the boat the next day and find it was doing the same thing. Long story short we had to tow it to tow ramp to be pulled out and taken to dealer. They had to replace all the relay switches as they were all bad. We have had so many issues with our screens. The wedge won't move to the desired place. (they've also already done everything they can to the wedge with out actually replacing it to fix this.) They've replaced the 12in screen, and they swapped out the viper for a 2nd time and it's still not working. We still can't get our radio to change using the joystick. We've had the fuel pump changed 3 times since June. This past saturday we were out surfing and the boat popped up service warning. It was acting sluggish to crank. It did crank but service warning kept popping up. We had low fuel pressure. It was about 46 It's idling really low pressure. The code the boat was reading was High Fuel Rail Pressure: spn:94 FMI:0 We checked oil and it was full. We had just filled up boat 3 hours prior. We had half a tank then when we filled up. The techs have swapped out everything.... I literally have a list of like 25 items they have fixed on our boat. The service department has gotten a lot of things fixed, but the wedge continually not working, and the engine and fuel problems are coming back. Like at this point I'm wondering if we have a lemon. We shouldn't be having this many issues on the boat and it's literally a year old.... We've done every scheduled maintenance. It's been worked on 10 times since May... And it's still not fixed.... After they swapped out the fuel pump yesterday it appears to be running fine, but now I'm nervous every time we go out. The fuel pump shouldn't be going out after only putting 20 hours on it. This is the 4th fuel pump we've had this season. I just don't know what to do at this point. The Malibu rep offered to do some upgrades to our boat, but there wasn't much we didn't have on our boat to begin with. It came pretty much fully loaded. But at some point these upgrades aren't adding to the value of our boat when it's going to come to resale value because of all the issues we've had. We've had 2 other boats prior to these. We switched from a center console to have more fun at the lake. Both were older used boats, and we never once had to put either in the shop to be worked on. And we used them in salt water a good bit. I love our boat when it's running right, but it's not reliable anymore. Any suggestions?
  5. 2010 Malibu response - Running slalom course at 34mph, and boat just died while under power. Electrical all good, will crank over, but no start after this failure. Further, no smell of gasoline, even when I pumped the throttle when trying to restart. Towed back to dock. (Fuel at 50% full). Guessing if it was ignition system, I would smell fuel, but did not. Can't believe it would be any type of filters, as this thing "just quit" at 34mph. Further, see that any fuel pump for Malibu Response are on "back order". Any thoughts / ideas????
  6. Hey guys looking for som advise I have searched far and long for the answer but have come up dry. I have a Malibu iRide 2005 with the 5.7 Indmar 325. A couple weeks ago we took the boat out after our winter unwrapping and it ran perfect. The following weekend we took it out for about 20 min turned it off and it wouldn’t restart. Got towed back. Got back to the house (30 mins later) tested the crank and it fired up. I went through replaced in line fuel filter, spark plugs, oil/filter cleaned air filter and throttle body. Ran fuel pressure test (50psi). Ran fine on fake lake. Following weekend took the boat out ran fine until I got a check engine light flashed on power dropped for a split second then right back to full power. Another half a lap and it died at speed. I swapped all the relays at the rear of the engine. Checked all three fuses at the engine. Checked the lanyard. But I noticed that on my multimeter I was not getting any power to the fuel pump on ignition/prime. Obviously this is why the boat wouldn’t start. I took the boat in to let the “professionals” diagnose it for me but the fuel pump was getting power again by time they got to it. They ran the diagnosis which had no stored error codes. They were unable to replicate the problem therefore unable to diagnose or fix the boat. I picked up the boat luckily with a $0 bill! The mechanic suggested a new fuel pump but that would have nothing to do with it if it wasn’t getting power. im starting to believe that my ECM is shot even though I have read how rare it is that they go out. Is there anything else I’m missing? Can I get my ECM tested and is it worth it? I have read maybe an alternator surge could cause it but I’m not convinced that’s my issue.
  7. Having difficulties finding a new fuel pump for 2010 Malibu wake setter intake pump needed. Anyone know of a dealer? Anyone have an extra one laying around that’s never been used?
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