Jump to content

Welcome to TheMalibuCrew!

As a guest, you are welcome to poke around and view the majority of the content that we have to offer, but in order to post, search, contact members, and get full use out of the website you will need to Register for an Account. It's free and it's easy, so don't hesitate to join the TheMalibuCrew Family today!

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'engine'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Website Announcements & Feedback
    • Website Announcements
    • Website Feedback & Support
  • Discussions
    • General Discussion Area
    • Watersports & Gear
    • Modifications & Accessories
    • Boat Storage
    • Trailers & Tow Rigs
    • Ballast Info & How-to
    • Stereo Info & How-To
    • Maintenance, Tech Info & Troubleshooting
    • DIY Articles
  • TheMalibuCrew On & Off the Water
    • Events
  • Classifieds, Deals & Discounts
    • Classifieds
    • Supporter Discounts and Group Buys
    • Group Buys For All Members
    • Group Buy Requests
    • Deal Street

Product Groups

  • Subscription Packages
  • MalibuCrew Gear
  • Other

Categories

  • Items For Sale
  • Items Wanted
  • Post a Freebie

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Found 17 results

  1. Two days after our last runs for the season, the oil turned white. Water was pouring into the #4 cylinder. Replaced the intake manifold gasket and had same problem. The engine is a 5 year old 5.7l Vortec base engine replacement from Michigan Motorz with only 200 hours on it. It was carbureted. Michigan Motorz is waiting to get a diagnosis from the shop I am using. I do not trust the engine so I am looking to swap the engine to a complete 5.7l MPI Vortec engine from Michigan Motorz. Gives me about 325hp with the torque I am used to. https://www.michiganmotorz.com/5-7l-complete-engine-package-ski-boat-inboard-or-v-drive-replacement-2 . Do not have to swap out transmission. What other options might I consider?
  2. so been getting codes left and right for awhile, dont get easy access to a dealer so been trying to sort out most of the problem over the phone or getting help here! so the codes are the followings Engine Alarm (active) SPN FMI Description 84 8 Vehicle Speed Signal Lost 442 15 EMWT2 High Temp Stage 1 photo in link, somehow cant insert image from this URL, what host do you guys use? https://app.box.com/s/92ls3niwiw3dporni3mlaakfk3jftbl8
  3. Hello, We have been trying to diagnose a hard starting LS1. It also has hesitation out of the hole and a lope at idle. Especially when warm. Starts well when cold. Found water on spark plug in cylinder #3. This is a closed system and when I checked the water on the plug, it was lake water. Not Antifreeze. Tested injectors. Swapped coils around. Thought maybe coil wasn't firing at full potential. Put new plugs in. Is it possible for water ti get into cylinder from the exhaust manifold? Seems to me that is the only place you could get lake water in at. Any thoughts and opinions would be appreciated. Thanks
  4. I am restoring a 1993 Echelon. It sat outside through 8 years of Missouri weather and was not properly winterized. I figure the engine, a Mercruiser 350 Magnum Tournament Ski, is shot. The thermostat housing was completely clogged with rust. I imagine the cooling channels in the block are full of rust. I did get the engine to turn over and ran it for a few minutes, but water wasn't circulating properly (almost none out the exhaust).Even if I could rebuild the 350 (parts seem hard to come by), I would rather drop in a newer EFI engine. Suggestions on a good EFI engine for the Echelon would be appreciated.
  5. After about 30 min of normal use pulling skiers today, I lost engine power pulling up a skier from a deep water start, unable to properly accelerate. I also noticed a whining / squealing noise coming from the engine compartment. I killed the engine, restarted, and immediately had sputtering and power loss upon acceleration. I was able to limp / idle back to my dock, but did lose full engine power 2 times and need to restart the ignition just to limp my way back. I put fresh fuel in the boat, ran the blower, and tried to run it again. I don’t have working gauges so am unable to see oil pressure or engine temps. the engine continued to sputter, refusing to accelerate, and when trying to, hiccuping while engaging the throttle, often shutting off. In neutral, I was able to rev the engine without any issues. what are some first steps I can take as somebody with a low DIY skill level? I’d love if this was just the plugs, but the whining noise from the engine sounds like it’s likely part of the problem. I believe the engine is The Indmar monsoon 325, Fuel injected. update: when I turn the key to ignition without starting the engine, I hear a similar but shorter squeel from when it’s running. This squeel comes from the rear port side of the engine which makes me think fuel pump ? the engine also loses power quicker now and shuts off after about 15 seconds. I can also no longer rev the engine in neutral / not under load without the engine conking out shortly after.
  6. New to the Monsoon engine. Trying to do minor troubleshooting to my Monsoon 340 which died on the lake before taking to mechanic. Want to check fuel pressure but schraeder valve is partially under the large air intake plenum so I can’t get pressure gauge fitting on valve without unbolting and lifting plenum slightly. Does loosening the 6 hex head cap screws and lifting the plenum disturb a gasket surface or seal or can I just retorque the cap screws?
  7. My husband and I recently bought a 2006 Malibu Wakesetter VLX with an Indmar 340 engine with 700 hours. Before buying, we test drove the boat for over an hour, checked engine oil before and after running, inspected the hull, have previous owner’s maintenance records, etc. Based on the following info, would probably hire someone to inspect the next boat we buy....life lessons After using the boat for a little under 7 hours for wakeboarding and wakesurfing, we noticed the oil was milky. While still in the water, we siphoned out the oil and found 6 quarts of water. We then changed the oil and ran the boat again for 10 minutes back to the boat launch. Once we got it out of the water, we drained the oil again and found more milkshake/water. Based on our research we thought it might have been the exhaust manifolds leaking so we removed and found water in all cylinders (some more than others). We did a very basic test to see if the exhaust manifolds were cracked/leaking and the results indicate they are not. The extent of our knowledge about boat engines is limited, so we stopped there. I should mention - the engine did not overheat but the engine was having trouble turning over once we hit the 7 hour mark (prior to emptying the water out of the engine). Based on the symptoms I described, does this sound like two blown head gaskets or an internal crack to the block? The boat was winterized by a marina and we have the maintenance records to prove it. The marina who winterized is telling us it’s two blown head gaskets (compression test results - zero pounds of compression on starboard middle cylinders and 40 pounds in port middle side. Did not provide results on the other cylinders) another marina we went to for a second opinion does not believe that’s true and they are very confident it’s a crack in the block but only did a visual inspection. With that background info, how likely is it to blow two head gaskets simultaneously without an engine overheating/just generally? What is likely to cause that much water to enter the engine? Really appreciate any perspective you can provide! Thank you.
  8. Looking at a 2005 23LSV but it has the 302 monsoon engine. I thought they came stock with the 350? Any advice? The price is great but that engine doesn’t seem right. Anyone having experience changing out monsoon with 383 and estimated cost? Thanks!
  9. We had an extremely early freeze (oct 5, 2019) and my motor was damaged due to ice. Tommy's tells me that I need a new motor installed, $10k. Do I have any other options?
  10. Hello everyone, I am rebuilding my 2004 VLX 21ft boat and have removed the engine, tranny, and V-drive. I was wondering is there anything I should look at replacing while I have all these components out of the boat? I'm thinking I should replace all the pumps in the boat while I am at it, however, I am trying to find a service manual for these parts and have had no luck. Does anyone know where I can find a service manual or know of a website where I can obtain these pumps for my boat? Any help would be greatly appreciated as I only want to rebuild this boat once and I would like to do it right the first time. Thank you for any and all your advice!!
  11. Malibumxz24

    Engine

    what is the center bell part on the rear of the engine called that the belt wraps around mine slung the belt the other day and cracked !?
  12. https://youtu.be/LPe8iIlNyG0
  13. I've got a 2014 23 LSV with the LS3. I've been battling engine codes all summer, which has caused me to miss the boating season. The dealer can't seem to figure out the problem, yet keeps charging me as they throw ideas at it. I'm hoping to learn a little more about the codes from the experts here to see if I can help steer the techs in the right direction, and also arm myself for an argument with the dealer on getting charged each time they try to fix it. The first time I took my boat out after winterization this year, I got these codes about 5 minutes after I started the boat up: SPN: 66020 FMI: 8 Abnormal frequency or pulse width SPN: 66017 FMI:5 Current below normal or open circuit The dealer (not the one I'm going to now, I moved across the country this summer) replaced a fuel pump based on info from the code reader, which ended up costing me about $600. I moved right after that repair. I took the boat out for about 2 hours after the move and everything was great until the very end where the exact same codes came back. I took it to a dealer in my new hometown (the one I'm dealing with now) and they replaced an O2 sensor based on the code reader results. They ran it on a hose for an hour and it was fine. That cost me another $500. I took it out again for a few hours and again, everything was good until the very end and codes came up again. This time, one was different and the other was the same: SPN:65594 FMI:7 Mechanical system not responding properly SPN:66017 FMI:5 Current below normal or open circuit I took it in again and they said the codes correspond to a misfire. They replaced the spark plugs, and also claim the ECM connector was loose. They took it out on the lake for an hour and it was fine. I won't be able to take it out until next year since the season is over here. What I'm hoping you all can help me with: 1) Is the SPN:66017 FMI:5 indicative of a problem that hasn't been addressed? Or is it a secondary code that is being thrown because of the first one? (SPN:66020 and SPN:65594) 2) Does the O2 sensor make sense as something that could address the SPN:66020 code? 3) Does it make sense that SPN:65594 (along with SPN:66017) would be a completely new issue? Or could it be related to the original issue? 4) Would SPN:65594 be addressed by simply replacing spark plugs? Or could it be just a loose ECM connector? 5) Would the dealer have to remove the ECM connector for the previous attempts to fix the problem? (i.e. could the new issue truly be another issue that was underneath the other, or was it induced by them trying to fix the original issue)? 6) Based on what has been done so far, do you think the issue has been addressed and wont come back? Or do you think it will show up again in the spring? 7) Have any of you been charged for a lake test of a fix that you didnt authorize? They are trying to charge me $125 to check their work, which seems absurd to me, especially since they keep charging me labor when their fix doesnt work I'm really feeling at a loss for how to get my boat fixed, so I appreciate anything you can do to help clarify this for me. This has been a frustrating and expensive process and I'm not sure what else to do! Dealers don't seem to be able to fix it, and they don't seem to care that it is costing me a fortune to try to fix it. Thanks in advance for the help and advice! -Bill
  14. Have a 2018 24 MXZ with 575 hp supercharged engine. It’s a lot louder than my 2011 Tige RZ4 with the 450. Anyone quiet thing down by installing BoomMat or Dynomat around engine compartment?
  15. Water in the engine oil.
  16. I’m hoping someone might have some advice for an issue I’ve recently encountered only 2 or 3 times. I have a 2015 23 LSV with the 409 Monsoon engine. Recently I’ve encountered a situation where the engine would bog down/stutter if I tried to go above around 2500 rpms while we were pulling our kids on tubes. When I brought it back to idle it runs fine without any noticeable issues or rough running. So I turned it off for a minute, started it back up and it ran fine. The engine temp is normal and no other signs or indication of any systems being out of their normal operating range. My only thought might be that possibly a little speck of trash in the fuel line partially got caught in the line and restricted the fuel flow? Trying to avoid taking it out of the water and to the dealer. Any suggestions? Thanks!
  17. Has anyone put a supercharger on a Monsoon 350? I live in Denver and the elevation is killing the performance of my motor. I have already tried three different props and still cannot get it to pull me at 36mph in my 2013 VTX. This is supposed to be a cross over boat but if it can't pull 36mph how can it be considered a ski boat?
×
×
  • Create New...