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Prop replacement


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Damaged my prop this weekend. I know I need a prop tool. Can anyone recommend a specific tool or kit. I'm getting an ACME 537 prop. Would anyone provide an idiot's guide to replacing a prop? Please or a link? I'm good with computers and math, but not with wrenches (or wenches). thanks.

I got confused on http://www.deltaprop.com/shopdisplayproduc...cat=Puller+Kits by "harmonic style puller" v "c sytle puller".

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I've got both in my Acme Weekend Saver kit. The Harmonic works if you're just changing props or the prop didn't shear the key if you hit something, if it did you might (probably) will need the "C" style. IF I was only getting one, I would go for the "C" style. Make sure to carry a hammer for the Harmonic style. It comes in handy for the "C" style sometines too.

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Using the "C" clamp style is the best. The thing about the prop is that it is sort of "pressed" onto the drive shaft because it's a taper to taper fit, meaning, it's very tight.

Always have the trans. in neutral or pull out the silver plug at your throttle control to be sure. You'll need to remove the cotter pin and loosen the large nut first. You might need to brace something against the prop to keep it from turning while you're loosening the nut. Leave the large nut on so that there's a 1/4 - 3/8 " gap between it and the prop. That's about 5-10mm if you're metrically inclined.

Once nut is backed-off, look at the inside diameter of the prop. You'll see a square recess, turn the prop so that the square is at the 12 o'clock position. Position the C clamp with the fork behind the prop and start turning the screw so that it is hitting straight down to the center of the drive shaft. Tighten the screw in the clamp as much as you can being careful not to let it slip off the end of the drive shaft. Once it is as tight as you can get it there are a few options...(if the prop didn't magically come off by now)

Some people boil water in a frying pan and douse the inner core of the prop to get the metal to expand slightly and possibly help get the prop off. Other people like to hit the back part of the prop near the center of it with a heavy mallet. NOT a metal faced hammer but something soft like rubber or plastic.

Personally, if the water and hammer don't get it off, then I just keep cranking on the C clamp. Eventually, the prop will suddenly jump off the shaft with a CLANG! That's why we left the nut on this whole time.

Now, remove the nut and prop. Making sure the square recess and, now visible, key is in the slot and at the 12 o'clock position. I always apply plumber's grease to all the parts during re-assembly.

Install the new prop and tighten nut as much as possible. Install new stainless steel cotter pin.

Piece of cake.

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According Bill @ Acme:

Don't use anything to tighten the "C" style puller other than the crescent wrench that comes with the kit. He told me of a couple of those style pullers that broke in half because of the person using a cheater bar or a long break over to try to force the prop off. He said it's best to use the hammer to strike the end of the "C" puller like you would the harmonic puller to get the prop off. My last bent prop sheared the key and spun the prop on the taper resulting in the key keeping the prop tighter. We finally got it off by using a hammer & a 1" dia X 10" long brass bar and driving it off from the back.

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