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Surge Brakes


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I have a Dorsey single axle under my SLXi. Last night, I noticed my truck pulling to one side when I stoped. Not the breaks on my truck. One side of my trailer brakes is not working. Where do I begin to trouble shoot?

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First, check the reservoir fluid level - could be as simple as you do not have enough brake fluid in the master cylinder. If thats the case, then you need to bleed the air out of the line(s), an easy process. If the fluid level is OK, then you have to get into the brake mechanism. Pull the wheel and see if there is brake fluid coming out anywhere (like the cylinder). Strong posssiblity that something has corroded due to water. Unless you are real handy, I would just haul it over to a Midas (or local brake shop) - if its not the fluid level - and let them fix it. Thumbup.gif

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Both calipers or wheel cylinders are fed form the same brake line all the way back to the axle. So if one works then the problem has to be after the spliter (tee fitting). I would check the caliper or cylinder on the wheel that is not working. You can activate the brakes by just pushing on the surge actuator by hand. This will stop a spinning wheel that is jacked off the ground.

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Being early in the season, on a hunch, I would try getting rid of the problem by ... disconnecting the wiring from the tow vehicle and pulling forward and backing up a few times. Remember when backing up to just go a little bit as your bypass valve in the brakes will be disabled. You just want to lock them up and release them. Just a cheap hunch! Tease.gif

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I spent copious time last year diagnosing then reserecting my brakes on a single axle trailer. Bottom line, both cylinders were so totally corroded that I just replace them with new ones. Cost was around $30 each and only took ~30 minutes per side to change. I spent more time getting the bleeders free so I could do a proper bleed job. Don't know how much more it would have cost to have this work done, but if you are an intermediate level DIYer, this job should be well within your reach.

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I spent copious time last year diagnosing then reserecting my brakes on a single axle trailer. Bottom line, both cylinders were so totally corroded that I just replace them with new ones. Cost was around $30 each and only took ~30 minutes per side to change. I spent more time getting the bleeders free so I could do a proper bleed job. Don't know how much more it would have cost to have this work done, but if you are an intermediate level DIYer, this job should be well within your reach.

Drum brakes?

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I spent copious time last year diagnosing then reserecting my brakes on a single axle trailer. Bottom line, both cylinders were so totally corroded that I just replace them with new ones. Cost was around $30 each and only took ~30 minutes per side to change. I spent more time getting the bleeders free so I could do a proper bleed job. Don't know how much more it would have cost to have this work done, but if you are an intermediate level DIYer, this job should be well within your reach.

Drum brakes?

Yup. Came with them and didn't want to spend the bucks to upgrade.

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Baddog-I checked with my trailer manufacture and a wheel cylinder kit is only a few $$$ less than the complete brake backplate assembly. Do you think it would be very hard to change out the entire assebly? For just a few bucks more I would essentially have new brakes.

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Baddog-I checked with my trailer manufacture and a wheel cylinder kit is only a few $$$ less than the complete brake backplate assembly. Do you think it would be very hard to change out the entire assebly? For just a few bucks more I would essentially have new brakes.

Just get the entire backplate assembly. It's really easy. 4 bolts and bleed the brake lines. That's about it.

I just completed the same on my trailer and was surprised how easy it is.

Might as well change out your bearings while your in there. Also pretty easy.

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Baddog-I checked with my trailer manufacture and a wheel cylinder kit is only a few $$$ less than the complete brake backplate assembly. Do you think it would be very hard to change out the entire assebly? For just a few bucks more I would essentially have new brakes.

IMHO, if the whole enchilada is only a few more bucks, it will be infinitely easier to change out and get your trailer rolling . . . . and stopping.

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Got to love business that provide great customer service! I ordered the backplate assemblies on Wed. at about 9:00 in the morning. They were at my doorstep Thursday afternoon!!!! Granted Trailers By Dorsey is about 60 miles away, its nice to have quick service.

Ok, where do I begin on getting to the backplate on the wheel assembly? I assume the tire will be the first to come off. What next? I am guessing the drum and bearings will come off.

Any pointers? Am I headed down the right path?

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1. Trailer (axle) jacked up and supported with jack stands

2. Tire removed

3. Remove bearing cap, cotter pin and axle nut.

4. Remove drum. Note, the outer bearing will come off with the drum, might want to keep it out of the dirt.

5. Remove brake line from cylinder. Probably the hardest part of the whole operation. Helps to have a flare nut wrench and a can of PB Blaster nearby

6. Remove four bolts holding back plate to trailer

7. Bolt on new back plate/brake assembly

8. Re-attach brake line

9. Replace bearing if needed, if not, clean and re-lube them. I don't believe it is possible to over lube them, but you sure can under lube them, but I wouldn't.

10. Drum back on

11. Outer bearing back in

12. Axle nut on, cotter pin (new one if you have it) in. More lube for good luck.

13. Bearing cap back on.

14. Bleed brake lines

15. Adjust brakes

16. Finish your 5th beer and go play in the water.

See? Simple.

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