Dealer or other supplier Steering Cable?

[gilby52]

I am going to have to replace my steering cable this year, I have read other post on line and since I am a handy guy, and my Dad is a TV repair man and has an awesome set of tools, I am going to do this myself!

My question is this, do you purchase the part from the dealer or WestMarine or others, I have not spent anytime price shopping, and I am really hoping one post will save my three or four phone calls!

I do know this, my dealer has the part in stock, which means a ton to me!

Looking forward for Feedback!

[mrothwell]

I am going to have to replace my steering cable this year, I have read other post on line and since I am a handy guy, and my Dad is a TV repair man and has an awesome set of tools, I am going to do this myself!

My question is this, do you purchase the part from the dealer or WestMarine or others, I have not spent anytime price shopping, and I am really hoping one post will save my three or four phone calls!

I do know this, my dealer has the part in stock, which means a ton to me!

Looking forward for Feedback!

boatfix.com

[chadwick02]

Ski DIM. Good folks there.

I will respond to your PM later this evening when I have time, sorry for the delay.

[Sixball]

Ski DIM. Good folks there.

I will respond to your PM later this evening when I have time, sorry for the delay.

Ski DIM. Good folks there.I agree

[Sunset_Bob]

Get the number off your old one. Order from who ever is the cheapest. Iboats.com, Skidim.com, West Marine.com, etc....

The number is on the black casing about 12 inches from the aluminum crimp.

[SunriseH2OSkier]

boatfix.com

What he said. I got mine last summer at the dealer for $178, found out later I could have got the same exact thing from boatfix for $126.

[chadwick02]

I PM’ed this too you, but I’ll post it here incase it helps someone else.

It was a major pain to get the rod out of the tube. I disconnected the steering cable from the steering wheel end, and then disconnected the block that attaches the tube to the hull of the boat near the rudder. Then I pulled the tube a few feet into the side locker so I could work on it. Getting the rod out of the tube was very hard. Too stuck to push or pull it. I ended up using one of those pipe clamps that has a large adjustable opening on it. Using that plastic block that is threaded onto the tube as a brace for the stationary end for the clamp, I was able to press the stainless rod out of the tube. Once the end of the rod sits flush with the end of the tube, use something that is slightly smaller than the inner diameter of the tube to push the rod through. I ended up using a socket extension. Just open the clamp up even more, and push the socket extension that pushes the rod through. It was pretty difficult and very slow. You will want another pair of hands for sure. And a good pipe clamp. I can send you a picture of what I am talking about If you need. My tube was only slightly bent, but that did cause a major problem. I still have no idea how the tube bent. Maybe I bent it in my initial attempt to unscrew the end of the cable from the tube?? I have no idea… It took a tremendous amount of force to push the rod through the pipe. I cannot imagine that my self turning the steering wheel was would have been enough force to make that rod move in that tube, even though my steering wheel was very tough to turn. That is why I think maybe it happened once I started to take the whole thing apart.

Once I had the rod out of the tube, I tied a 30’ piece of strong rope onto the loop at the end of the rod that attaches to the rudder. Then pull the cable through from the dash side. On my boat I had to completely disassemble the kick board under the dash exposing the entire slit through the floor that all the cables run through. It was maybe 12” long. You also need to make sure that the steering cable is all the way retracted into its self. I was not able to get it around one of the stringers until I retracted it into its self. I just bolted the rack back up to the wheel, and turned it all the way to the left (I think). No big deal. You will understand what I am talking about when you get there.

Once you have the old cable out, tie the rope you ran onto the rudder end of the new cable, and pull it back trough. Have a buddy push from the helm and pull the rope from the back of the boat. This was the easiest step for me.

My cable was a major problem in my case. It was very tough to move its self. The new cable you can move easily by hand before you install it. My old one I could not at all. So I’d say both the cable and the tube were equally the problem. Now I can steer the boat with my pinky finger. It glides as smooth as butter. Now turning the wheel in the boat is much easier than turning the wheel in my car!!

Hope this helps…

Chad

[chadwick02]

Oh, and you are gona need some good sized wrenches or a large adjustable wrench. I ended up needing two, and a large pipe wrench also came in handy. Might be tools you wont find in a TV repair shop...

[chadwick02]

and what year is your boat?

you should update it over there

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[gilby52]

So here is a different question, if one know that the steering cable has to be replaced, why not but a slit or two in the cable housing and dose it with wd40 or something like that, could you gain some time while you get around replacing it?

and what year is your boat?

you should update it over there

<--------------

[NorCaliBu]

boatfix.com

Save yourself some time. They will be the cheapest (at least they were 2 years ago)

So here is a different question, if one know that the steering cable has to be replaced, why not but a slit or two in the cable housing and dose it with wd40 or something like that, could you gain some time while you get around replacing it?

You know exactly where the corrosion is inside the cable jacket? Or were you just planning on slitting the entire jacket? Just replace it...it's not that difficult. Heck, even a goof like Jack could do it.

[VinRLX]

Hey! I resemble that remark.