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OVERHEATING


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I HAVE A 2000 WAKESETTER 23 VLX. STANDARD ENGINE I BELIEVE. ANYWAY, I'M RUNNING INTO PROBLEM WITH OVERHEATING WHEN AT IDLE. THE PROBLEM SEEMS TO GO AWAY WHEN I GET MOVING, BUT THEN RETURNS WHEN BACK TO IDLE. I'M ASSUMING THIS IS AN IMPELLER PROB, BUT WOULD LIKE TO KNOW FOR SURE. AND IF IT IS, HOW AND WHERE DO I GO ABOUT CHANGING THIS THING? ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED.

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I HAVE A 2000 WAKESETTER 23 VLX. STANDARD ENGINE I BELIEVE. ANYWAY, I'M RUNNING INTO PROBLEM WITH OVERHEATING WHEN AT IDLE. THE PROBLEM SEEMS TO GO AWAY WHEN I GET MOVING, BUT THEN RETURNS WHEN BACK TO IDLE. I'M ASSUMING THIS IS AN IMPELLER PROB, BUT WOULD LIKE TO KNOW FOR SURE. AND IF IT IS, HOW AND WHERE DO I GO ABOUT CHANGING THIS THING? ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED.

No way to know for sure, but generally with ANY overheat condition, the impeller is the first item to go to - so definitely start there.

Assuming it's a typical Johnson raw water pump, remove the 4 brass bolts on the cover plate, grab the impeller with a pair of needle nose pliers and pull it straight out. An impeller puller (SkiDim or West Marine) might make it easier if you have the room back there. V-drives can be a pain in that regard. You will likely find it easier if, once the cover plate is off, to bump the starter (don't actually start it) which usually loosens the impeller on the shaft. To replace the impeller, put a little NeverSeeze on the shaft, lube up the impeller with some non-petroleum lubricant (glycerine, dish soap, silicone grease, Astroglide), twist it in to orient the vanes and push it back. Put the new gasket on, replace the cover plate and tighten down the bolts. Note that those bolts are brass, and they're soft, so don't crank 'em down too tight. Be careful how much you torque around on the pump body since too much lateral pressure can damage the pump body shaft seal.

If you do have a damaged impeller with missing vanes, you'll have to get the rubber pieces out that were blown downstream. They will usually lodge in the screen on the transmission cooler, so pull the raw water pump-side hose off and pluck all those little buggers out.

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To 2nd what Big Mac said - the surest sign of a bad impeller is what you describe - when you are moving you are "forcing" enough water into the pump for it to cool your engine. At idle, there is no water being "forced" into the pump to assist it in pulling so the temperature rises. I bet you'll find a couple of broken blades when you pull the impeller.

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To 2nd what Big Mac said - the surest sign of a bad impeller is what you describe - when you are moving you are "forcing" enough water into the pump for it to cool your engine. At idle, there is no water being "forced" into the pump to assist it in pulling so the temperature rises. I bet you'll find a couple of broken blades when you pull the impeller.

Or seaweed crap in your tranny cooler.

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I HAVE A 2000 WAKESETTER 23 VLX. STANDARD ENGINE I BELIEVE. ANYWAY, I'M RUNNING INTO PROBLEM WITH OVERHEATING WHEN AT IDLE. THE PROBLEM SEEMS TO GO AWAY WHEN I GET MOVING, BUT THEN RETURNS WHEN BACK TO IDLE. I'M ASSUMING THIS IS AN IMPELLER PROB, BUT WOULD LIKE TO KNOW FOR SURE. AND IF IT IS, HOW AND WHERE DO I GO ABOUT CHANGING THIS THING? ANY HELP WOULD BE APPRECIATED.

No way to know for sure, but generally with ANY overheat condition, the impeller is the first item to go to - so definitely start there.

Assuming it's a typical Johnson raw water pump, remove the 4 brass bolts on the cover plate, grab the impeller with a pair of needle nose pliers and pull it straight out. An impeller puller (SkiDim or West Marine) might make it easier if you have the room back there. V-drives can be a pain in that regard. You will likely find it easier if, once the cover plate is off, to bump the starter (don't actually start it) which usually loosens the impeller on the shaft. To replace the impeller, put a little NeverSeeze on the shaft, lube up the impeller with some non-petroleum lubricant (glycerine, dish soap, silicone grease, Astroglide), twist it in to orient the vanes and push it back. Put the new gasket on, replace the cover plate and tighten down the bolts. Note that those bolts are brass, and they're soft, so don't crank 'em down too tight. Be careful how much you torque around on the pump body since too much lateral pressure can damage the pump body shaft seal.

If you do have a damaged impeller with missing vanes, you'll have to get the rubber pieces out that were blown downstream. They will usually lodge in the screen on the transmission cooler, so pull the raw water pump-side hose off and pluck all those little buggers out.

Plus1.gif

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THANK YOU ALSO. TRULY AM APPRECIATIVE OF THIS SITE AND ALL THE HELPFUL PEOPLE ON IT! MAKES IT MUCH LESS EXPENSIVE WHEN WE CAN ALL SOLVE PROBS TOGETHER RATHER THAN JUST PAY OUT THE NOSE AT THE DEALER. WHERE IN WI ARE YOU FROM AND WHAT LAKES DO YOU FREQUENT? LIVED THERE FOR 28 YEARS.

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THANK YOU ALSO. TRULY AM APPRECIATIVE OF THIS SITE AND ALL THE HELPFUL PEOPLE ON IT! MAKES IT MUCH LESS EXPENSIVE WHEN WE CAN ALL SOLVE PROBS TOGETHER RATHER THAN JUST PAY OUT THE NOSE AT THE DEALER. WHERE IN WI ARE YOU FROM AND WHAT LAKES DO YOU FREQUENT? LIVED THERE FOR 28 YEARS.

SCOTTDOMINE,

When you get a chance please turn off the caps lock on your keyboard... Thumbup.gif

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  • 2 months later...
If you do have a damaged impeller with missing vanes, you'll have to get the rubber pieces out that were blown downstream. They will usually lodge in the screen on the transmission cooler, so pull the raw water pump-side hose off and pluck all those little buggers out.

where is this located is it the tube unit that has hydraulic fitting going into it? if so I pull of the bottom hose and pick out the impellar parts, or how do I go about this, as I recnetly ate a impellar to the point of no fins left, had to tow it in ROFL.gif on a perfect glasss night Badmood.gif ?

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If you do have a damaged impeller with missing vanes, you'll have to get the rubber pieces out that were blown downstream. They will usually lodge in the screen on the transmission cooler, so pull the raw water pump-side hose off and pluck all those little buggers out.

where is this located is it the tube unit that has hydraulic fitting going into it? if so I pull of the bottom hose and pick out the impellar parts, or how do I go about this, as I recnetly ate a impellar to the point of no fins left, had to tow it in ROFL.gif on a perfect glasss night Badmood.gif ?

Yes, it's the tube that those two fittings go into. Pull the bottom hose off and reach inside with your finger. There will be a mesh screen (really more of a grate) an inch or so in. Just use your finger to remove any weeds or other crap.

Mike

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went out and checked..... yep your right it was FULL of impellar good thing you clued me in or I'd be wondering if I did the impellar job right as it would be heating up again. THANKS Thumbup.gif

how often should a guy clean that screen?

Jason

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