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johnsvt

Raw water pump & RPM's

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johnsvt

So the weather gods decided to let us NE boys finally get out on the water(water temp was 51 air was 70.) I took mine out for a quick run to test the speakers (they are plenty loud) and just run the boat a little before we start to really use it. I believe I have a leaking raw water pump as water was coming out at the rear of the pump. When I got home I looked over the hoses and found the output hose to be loose, so I am hoping that is the quick fix. Has anyone see one of these pumps fail in 10 hours of use? Secondly, on two occasions I gave the boat a little throttle and was able to easily pull 5100 rpms and just stopped at that rpm because I thought that was all this motor was supposed to turn. What is the max rpm I should run? Btw, I have the LCR with an acme 537 and it was just 3 of us in the boat.

Thanks,

John

Edited by johnsvt

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VinRLX

Hopefully the hose was the source of your water leak.

5.7 EFI max RPM is 5200.

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johnsvt

Thanks, I am hoping hose if not I am buying a new one and a rebuild kit. I thought the max rpm was 5100 and was worried because the motor was still pulling strong at 5100.

Edited by johnsvt

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srab
So the weather gods decided to let us NE boys finally get out on the water(water temp was 51 air was 70.) I took mine out for a quick run to test the speakers (they are plenty loud) and just run the boat a little before we start to really use it. I believe I have a leaking raw water pump as water was coming out at the rear of the pump. When I got home I looked over the hoses and found the output hose to be loose, so I am hoping that is the quick fix. Has anyone see one of these pumps fail in 10 hours of use? Secondly, on two occasions I gave the boat a little throttle and was able to easily pull 5100 rpms and just stopped at that rpm because I thought that was all this motor was supposed to turn. What is the max rpm I should run? Btw, I have the LCR with an acme 537 and it was just 3 of us in the boat.

Thanks,

John

Probably the hose. If that doesn't fix it, check the four bolts that hold the faceplate on the raw water pump

to see if they are snug. Don't over-tighten, though, because they're brass and will break. If still leaking,

you could get a replacement gasket for about $3. On the other hand, if you're going to go that far, you

might consider replacing the impeller while you're at it. Put vaseline on the one you remove, keep it in a

plastic baggie, and keep it on the boat as a spare.

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Gordo
So the weather gods decided to let us NE boys finally get out on the water(water temp was 51 air was 70.) I took mine out for a quick run to test the speakers (they are plenty loud) and just run the boat a little before we start to really use it. I believe I have a leaking raw water pump as water was coming out at the rear of the pump. When I got home I looked over the hoses and found the output hose to be loose, so I am hoping that is the quick fix. Has anyone see one of these pumps fail in 10 hours of use? Secondly, on two occasions I gave the boat a little throttle and was able to easily pull 5100 rpms and just stopped at that rpm because I thought that was all this motor was supposed to turn. What is the max rpm I should run? Btw, I have the LCR with an acme 537 and it was just 3 of us in the boat.

Thanks,

John

Probably the hose. If that doesn't fix it, check the four bolts that hold the faceplate on the raw water pump

to see if they are snug. Don't over-tighten, though, because they're brass and will break. If still leaking,

you could get a replacement gasket for about $3. On the other hand, if you're going to go that far, you

might consider replacing the impeller while you're at it. Put vaseline on the one you remove, keep it in a

plastic baggie, and keep it on the boat as a spare.

Since its a REAL pita to change impellers on a V drive, use the Globe "run dry", blue impeller. It will last at least 3 years and costs just a few $ more. www.defender.com carries them. If you use the same impeller as mine, then your crossover number is 100J.

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johnsvt

Well I guess I got lucky, turned out I had a loose hose going to the impeller pump. I have ordered a spare impeller and will get either an impeller puller or a 90degree long nose plier. Thanks crew for the help.

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VinRLX

Somebody around suggested using paint can lid opener for the impeller removal. Worked for me--I used two of them.

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johnsvt
Somebody around suggested using paint can lid opener for the impeller removal. Worked for me--I used two of them.

I saw that also, I will worry once it is time to replace. I think there is plenty of room back their, in comparison to what I have worked on in the past.

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srab
Somebody around suggested using paint can lid opener for the impeller removal. Worked for me--I used two of them.

I saw that also, I will worry once it is time to replace. I think there is plenty of room back their, in comparison to what I have worked on in the past.

I have to agree. Once the removable partition is taken down and the stern-most portion of the partition removed

(that one phillips-head screw), there's plenty of room to jut lie in the storage area with my head against the carpeted

stern. A flashlight and a ratchet wrench is all I need. Pump cover is off in a couple of minutes.

The only tricky part is getting the impeller out. A bump or two with the ignition while the safety lanyard is

disconnected will usually get it started. Paint can openers sound like a good choice, but I went ahead and

bought an impeller remover. Now, that impeller just comes right out. By the time the partitions were replaced

and the job was completely finished, it took me under 15 minutes Sunday before last, and I wasn't even

hurrying.

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