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How to tighten the shaft seal?


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What is the correct way to tighten the drive shaft seal on a DD? Mine leaks quite a bit. I bought two of the slip joint pliers recommended on an earlier thread and went to tighten but it seems to be as tight as it can be, yet still leaks a continuous stream of H2O. What happens if I loosen then re-tighten? Does the packing need to be replaced? Is the inner, narrow nut the lock nut?

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check this thread over. For instructions.

yes the thin narrow nut is the lock nut.

If you have tightened the seal up a few times then you may need to replace it. I will have to call a friend, but there is one seal that is a one time replacement. Just make sure you have the jam nut backed off and try to re-tighten.

I would not back off the nut to much if I were you.

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What is the correct way to tighten the drive shaft seal on a DD?  Mine leaks quite a bit.  I bought two of the slip joint pliers recommended on an earlier thread and went to tighten but it seems to be as tight as it can be, yet still leaks a continuous stream of H2O.  What happens if I loosen then re-tighten?  Does the packing need to be replaced?  Is the inner, narrow nut the lock nut?

On your DD looking from the bow (front Biggrin.gif ), the back nut is the lock or jam nut, the larger front one holds the packing. holding the front nut, break the rear one loose and back it off a little. Then, tighten the front nut. The ideal way would be to do this on the water so you can check the adjustment. After you have tightened the front nut, hold it in place and turn the jam nut against it and tighten. Run it and observe how much is dripping. A drip every 10 sec is said to be ideal.

Previous thread about shaft seal leaking

Edited by Sunsetter95
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If I do this on the water do I risk a large quantity of water suddenly entering my boat?  how tight is too tight on the big nut?

Too tight is when no water is dripping. If the packing material is worn out then the adj nut will bottom out and the rapid dripping will continue. Don't replace the packing material while on the water. Pull the boat, replace it, then relaunch the boat and adjust for drip rate.

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Don't replace the packing material while on the water.  Pull the boat, replace it, then relaunch the boat and adjust for drip rate.

Pardon me for saying this, but Duh! Who would replace the packing on the water. :) Lanyards yes, packing no.

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Pardon me for saying this, but Duh! Who would replace the packing on the water. :) Lanyards yes, packing no.

Hey, you never know... Crazy.gif ...I just didn't want to log on Monday and have someone female dogging about how their boat sank because they removed the packing material from the packing gland. You wouldn't think someone would fall for "Check your muffler bearings" either but ... :)

Replacing a lanyard is far too complicated for your average seasoned mechanic. It takes a real "expert", right Lance? Crazy.gif How many threads have now been corrupted with "lanyard" comments?

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What is the correct way to tighten the drive shaft seal on a DD?  Mine leaks quite a bit.  I bought two of the slip joint pliers recommended on an earlier thread and went to tighten but it seems to be as tight as it can be, yet still leaks a continuous stream of H2O.  What happens if I loosen then re-tighten?  Does the packing need to be replaced?  Is the inner, narrow nut the lock nut?

On your DD looking from the bow (front Biggrin.gif ), the back nut is the lock or jam nut, the larger front one holds the packing.

Previous thread about shaft seal leaking

you must not know much about DD, pal. I went up front and looked from the bow of mine, and I couldn't even see the packing nut from way up there Crazy.gif

BTW, if you replace the packing, go GFO (Gore®)...you'll be dripless and it's an easy, cheap DIY fix. I'll get you the link when I get home, or one of these other fine members will get it for you sooner. Our bike salesman seems to have plenty of time on his hands Biggrin.gif

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On the old MBO there was a thread about changing the packing. If I recall the hardest part is getting the old stuff out. The "GFO" type packing was the perferd material. You might do a search and see what you find.

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Don't know about the GFO stuff, tell me more, but I did the tightening thing this weekend and it was so easy, so right. Thanks for the info and support. Is this the best site or what?

PLUS, I didn't sink the boat.

This was the first weekend on the water (East Coast spring just SUCKS this year) but boy, did we have some fun.

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GFO is a packing material that once you get the nut tightened right it never needs adjusting. At least that is what I have heard. My packing is still ok, but when it needs to be replaced that is what I will go with.

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I kinda like the shaft packing to drip a little

1) Keeps my bilge nice and clean

2) Allows me to test bilge pump occasionally.

3) You can scare people when you open the engine cover and say "Uh Oh, where's all that water coming from?"

4) That drip every 5 seconds or so let's me know everything is O.K.

5) Gives me something else to play with, maintenecne wise, on my boat.

That being said, I'll look into the GFO when the time comes to replace the packing...

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