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WaveMake'nLSV

Pump Float Valve?

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WaveMake'nLSV

Related to my other thread about the schematic of the dash switches...a thought did cross my mind. I really don't mind the belly and bow tank wired together. The ISSUE is the front drain pump. Couple things that might fix the issue other than re-wiring the dash switches:

(1) Install an 1100 GPH drain pump on the belly tank to bring the drain rate of the 500# down closer to the drain rate of the 350# bow. But I think it requires a 1" outlet hose, which means I have to attempt to re-run the hose.

(2) Install a 500 GPH drain pump on the bow to slow it down, thus keeping the 3/4" hose/fitting

(3) Put a flow sensitive/float type valve or something on the bow drain(IF such a monster exists), so when the tank runs dry = pumps stops.

If I put water in the belly, I probably want some in the bow anyway...and of course, can partially fill both depending on the load in the boat, etc.

Looking for any/all input...anyone else had the same problem? I know a couple people have just pulled the front tank to its own switch. Got to be honest, am a bit intimidated looking at the nest egg of wires on those switches, and of course, wire splicing will be needed to move it to its own toggle.

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RiverRunner
(1) Install an 1100 GPH drain pump on the belly tank to bring the drain rate of the 500# down closer to the drain rate of the 350# bow. But I think it requires a 1" outlet hose, which means I have to attempt to re-run the hose.

Why would you have to go to a 1" line adding a 1100gph to the existing line would increase the flow most likely evening out the fill times, solving the 2nd and 3rd issue.

This has never crossed my mind as an issue, I turn on the ballast and fill till it is pissing out the side of the boat, usally don't remember to turn it off until we get ready to ride or someone else reminds me or until I hear the words "the boat is peeing"

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WaveMake'nLSV

Absolutely a NON-issue on the fill. My issue is the drain. The front tank (350) drains MUCH faster than the Belly (500). Thought being, I might put an 1100 on the belly DRAIN to equal out the drain times, so my front drain pump isn't running dry for 3-4 mins each time I drain the tanks.

This has never crossed my mind as an issue, I turn on the ballast and fill till it is pissing out the side of the boat, usally don't remember to turn it off until we get ready to ride or someone else reminds me or until I hear the words "the boat is peeing"

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Ronnie

I split my front tanks switches. Now I have one for each of the four tanks. No splicing any wires. There are wires for each pump on each switch. Simple and not overengineered.... Tongue.gif

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WaveMake'nLSV

That was my plan...just not sure how to wire. Course I just glanced at it and haven't spent any time with it. BUNCH of poles to deal with on initial inspection. Dontknow.gif

I split my front tanks switches. Now I have one for each of the four tanks. No splicing any wires. There are wires for each pump on each switch. Simple and not overengineered.... Tongue.gif

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WaveMake'nLSV

I like to think of it as NOT overlooking any options. Tongue.gifThumbup.gifWhistling.gif

Always a better mousetrap, yano? Tease.gif

There are wires for each pump on each switch. Simple and not overengineered.... Tongue.gif

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Ronnie

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68Slalom

Thought being, I might put an 1100 on the belly DRAIN to equal out the drain times, so my front drain pump isn't running dry for 3-4 mins each time I drain the tanks.

I think you have the right thought, but it would be just as easy to have both ballast on different switches. Much cheaper and you can still move around until it's drained.....spend your money on something else "BEER" (LOL)

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WaveMake'nLSV

Never a true-R word spoken! ROFL.gif

Much cheaper and you can still move around until it's drained.....spend your money on something else "BEER" (LOL)

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Brad B

Split the switches - much much easier to deal with.

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