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Is it possible to have too much prop?


Joshuntnd

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Joshuntnd

Happy Wednesday everyone! 
 

Ive got an ‘08 23lsv with the 340 Monsoon with a 537 prop. We are starting to get pretty close to having the surf wave finally figured out. Now it seems like it’s time for a prop change. 
 

Setup- MLS rear hard tanks 250 each, MLS center tank 500, port locker 800lb bag at 100%,starboard locker 1100lb bag at 75ish%, and power wedge in the middle. Going to add a bow bag this week and plan on 3-400 is lbs. Crew is almost always 6-7, 2 adults and 4-5 teenagers. At 1000ft abo
 

I’ve got access to a 2277 to try and the price would be very generous, but I think it may be too big. I know the 1615, 2419, or OJ 468 all would be ideal. 
 

Any thoughts are appreciated! 
 

Thanks!

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your current prop is 16 pitch and the 2277 is 15.75 with larger diameter.  You're likely going to want to go lower pitch regardless of diameter.

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Joshuntnd
1 hour ago, UWSkier said:

your current prop is 16 pitch and the 2277 is 15.75 with larger diameter.  You're likely going to want to go lower pitch regardless of diameter.

Thanks! I’ve been looking at it all wrong, that makes total sense.
 

 I knew I was missing something. Props, so simple yet so complicated! 

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I've found the 1235 to be great for our wake surfing and general use.  I have two 750 in the rear lockers and 450 in the ski locker and if no one is in the bow I put a 400 there.  I have 200 for under each seat but don't typically fill those if we have six people or more in the boat.  I also put the wedge down but don't know how much difference that makes at surf speed.  Don't do any wake boarding these days but it does fine for wake skating (same speed as boarding).  I still slalom ski occasionally and it will get me to 32 where the wake is soft and small with the rpms getting up there but are under the max (don't remember exactly but I think between 3500-4000) and the runs are fairly short since I don't last that long at 63yo.  I'm thinking about a 1939 or 1941 as a spare (traded my original 381 for prop repair on my 1235 many years ago) for days I take youth tubing or more cruising.

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skiyaker

somewhere I saw a link to a post by "engine nut" whom I believe is an Indmar engineer regarding the consequences to the engine of over propping a boat.  But I can't find it now.  It seemed logical and backed me off on the idea of moving up on props from my 23 LSV.  Anyone know the link I'm referencing? 

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4 minutes ago, skiyaker said:

somewhere I saw a link to a post by "engine nut" whom I believe is an Indmar engineer regarding the consequences to the engine of over propping a boat.  But I can't find it now.  It seemed logical and backed me off on the idea of moving up on props from my 23 LSV.  Anyone know the link I'm referencing? 

The only thing you really have to be careful of (in my opinion) - is knowing what your max RPM is supposed to be and do not exceed it if you are unloaded and using a torque prop.

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13 minutes ago, skiyaker said:

somewhere I saw a link to a post by "engine nut" whom I believe is an Indmar engineer regarding the consequences to the engine of over propping a boat.  But I can't find it now.  It seemed logical and backed me off on the idea of moving up on props from my 23 LSV.  Anyone know the link I'm referencing? 

 

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8 minutes ago, oldjeep said:

The only thing you really have to be careful of (in my opinion) - is knowing what your max RPM is supposed to be and do not exceed it if you are unloaded and using a torque prop.

This can't happen on a modern engine due to rev limiting, which is @Engine Nut's point in the thread posted above.  The issue is damage done by lugging the engine while heavy, not freewheeling unloaded since the rev limiter will not allow the engine to exceed the maximum RPM.

Find the prop that allows you to get the engine to the low end of the RPM range (~4,800 RPM or so, depending on the engine) at WOT while fully loaded for your normal conditions (wedge, ballast, crew, beer, etc.) and you have the correct prop.

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43 minutes ago, justgary said:

This can't happen on a modern engine due to rev limiting, which is @Engine Nut's point in the thread posted above.  The issue is damage done by lugging the engine while heavy, not freewheeling unloaded since the rev limiter will not allow the engine to exceed the maximum RPM.

Find the prop that allows you to get the engine to the low end of the RPM range (~4,800 RPM or so, depending on the engine) at WOT while fully loaded for your normal conditions (wedge, ballast, crew, beer, etc.) and you have the correct prop.

Not sure where the rev limiter is set, but on my boat it is definitely above the recommended WOT range

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The 12x15 acme props would all work. 2419, 2315, or 2313 from most to least aggressive. Difference is in the cup (bend at end of blade). The less aggressive props have a little more cup which will bring rpm’s down slightly and may give you 1-2 mph more top speed. Sounds like 2315 or 2419 would be ideal for you. 

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20 minutes ago, shawndoggy said:

 Sounds like 2315 or 2419 would be ideal for you. 

This^

Ran both on my 06 and still run them on my 15. 

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skiyaker
1 hour ago, justgary said:

 

Perfect- Thanks!  That makes a lot of sense now that I read it again.

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dizzygti

What was already said.    Run it unloaded at WOT and see what the rpm limit is.    If you can't hit that rpm when the boat is loaded and throttle level is as far forward as it'll go, you are underpropped.   It isn't rocket science....

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