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2006 Monsoon 340 Hesitation Under Load


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Hey all,

Need some help.  I have an 06 Response Lxi.  I drive my boat for a ski club and was experiencing hesitation when pulling multiple skiers off the dock around 1300-1500rpm consistently at the end of last year.  It was a quick blip of hesitation that would happen and immediately be gone.  We changed the fuel pump and no more problems (I never really thought the fuel pump was the issue but needed a change after 16 years).  This season has just started and I am experiencing the same hesitation.  Day 1, no problems.  Day 2, same hesitation issues and worse.  It seems as though the hesitation happens 5-10 times on a pull before it "pushes through" or balances out.  Hesitation did not occur driving from my dock to the ski site but seemed to be triggered by my first pull of skiers.  From there it occurred every time with AND without skiers.  

I'm changing my cap/rotor today.  I will change plugs and wires after that.  I've ordered a new fuel pressure regulator valve and potentiometer for the Throttle Positioning Sensor Assembly.  I have a Morse shifter that was first year "fly by wire" and probably read too much online that has me worried about the TPS assembly working/not working.  I have a Diacom software set-up.  Am I going down the right path?  Looking for some ideas and input from others.  Thanks in advance.

Joe

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When was the last time you did cap/rotor/plugs/wires?  Those can usually account for most issues.  If you haven't done that in some time, I would keep to your current path and I'd assume you'll be good to go.  

Does it do this with and without perfect pass?  Sometimes that servo/cable/spring can wear out too.

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I change cap/rotor/plugs/wires every 2-3 years.  I have not tried with perfect pass on.  I should note that while sitting in neutral, I pulled the throttle warm up button and revved the throttle and NO hesitation occurred.

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After the obvious things as mentioned above, I would look into vacuum leaks and both TPS and MAP sensor.

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My 06 had the kill switch malfunction on take offs, a couple years ago.

My friend thought my trans was slipping. I thought it was missing/hesitating. Turned out to be kill switch.

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Thanks.  Just changed cap/rotor.  Corroded and dirty, not horrible.  Rotor was extremely loose on one screw.  Ill keep you all posted.  Appreciate all your help.

Joe

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4 hours ago, BigWake said:

I have a Morse shifter that was first year "fly by wire" and probably read too much online that has me worried about the TPS assembly working/not working.  I have a Diacom software set-up.  Am I going down the right path?

What does the Diacom tell you?  It should be obvious if you have a bad TPS sensor or throttle.

Does your engine have HDS (flat top) or old type distributor?

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After changing cap/rotor I took boat out and had all normal operation.  Gradual drive from 0-43mph was fine. Dropped speed to mid 30s, started weaving boat, reduced throttle and then punched throttle coming out of turn and sure enough the hesitation occurred and continued.  I then hooked up Diacom and recorded data approx 2 minutes with normal and hesitation events.

What am I looking for on the data?

Throttle sensor 1 was always between 0.98-2.32ish VDC

Throttle sensor 2 was always between 2.7-4.02ish VDC

Combined they were always 5+/-.02

Pedal position 1 was always between 0.59-1.72 VDC

Pedal position 2 was always between 3.27-4.6ish VDC

Combined they were always 5+/-0.03

MAP sensor voltage held mostly 1.7ish but fluctuated 0.6-4.5

 

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22 hours ago, BigWake said:

After changing cap/rotor I took boat out and had all normal operation.  Gradual drive from 0-43mph was fine. Dropped speed to mid 30s, started weaving boat, reduced throttle and then punched throttle coming out of turn and sure enough the hesitation occurred and continued.  I then hooked up Diacom and recorded data approx 2 minutes with normal and hesitation events.

What am I looking for on the data?

Throttle sensor 1 was always between 0.98-2.32ish VDC

Throttle sensor 2 was always between 2.7-4.02ish VDC

Combined they were always 5+/-.02

Pedal position 1 was always between 0.59-1.72 VDC

Pedal position 2 was always between 3.27-4.6ish VDC

Combined they were always 5+/-0.03

MAP sensor voltage held mostly 1.7ish but fluctuated 0.6-4.5

 

So it isn't your throttle sensors.

MAP sensor tells you the manifold pressure at any given time.  Should be close to 14.7 PSI at key on and running at wide open throttle  Varies by throttle position and engine RPM the rest of the time.

Test the fuel pressure with the key on, at idle, and wide open throttle.  The pressures should be constant at 4 Bar, or about 58 PSI or so.

I agree with completing the tune up.  You didn't answer about the HDS distributor.

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MAP mainly at 13ish.  Readings would drop to 8-9s then jump to 20ish.  8-9s and then to 20ish all occurred in short timeframe (guessing these are hesitation events) then back to 13ish.  Should the MAP pressures be fluctuating or constant?  If constant, are they controlled by the sensor or just read by the sensor?  meaning, should I change the sensor or is something else causing it?

Distributor cap is the HVS (crab claw/square) model.

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6 hours ago, BigWake said:

MAP mainly at 13ish.  Readings would drop to 8-9s then jump to 20ish.  8-9s and then to 20ish all occurred in short timeframe (guessing these are hesitation events) then back to 13ish.  Should the MAP pressures be fluctuating or constant?  If constant, are they controlled by the sensor or just read by the sensor?  meaning, should I change the sensor or is something else causing it?

Distributor cap is the HVS (crab claw/square) model.

Your MAP sensor should not ever read above about 14.5 PSI where you live (unless you have a boosted engine, which you don't).  And again, the manifold pressure is a function of throttle setting and RPM.  Reading should be very low (but never zero) at idle.  Reading should be atmospheric pressure at key on and at wide-open throttle (pretty much regardless of RPM since the manifold is open to full air pressure at that point).  Are you quoting PSI or some other units?

I recommend that you grab some carb spray and thoroughly clean the inside of the throttle body, including the butterfly, the throat edges, the side passages, etc.  You might also pull the MAP sensor and clean it while you are at it.

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