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2022 24MXZ almost capsized in rough water


platon20

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What lake?  I am on the second largest lake in Texas (Livingston) and it can get pretty wind blown and bad.  There definitely are days that I choose to not leave the dock because of wind driven waves.  
Did you deploy your wedge?  This is the best option in my opinion as your are not putting actual weight in the boat, but can significantly raise the bow at slow speeds. 

glad that you made it back safely. 

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For lesson 2, I have seen kits with bigger boats where they install a version of a 3-way valve on the thru-hull. In one position it pulls the lake water like normal. In the second position, it allows the cooling water to be drawn from the bilge. This allows the engine to assist with pumping the bilge water out. 

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I keep my old school 1100GPH throw over ballast pump in my boat tool kit just in case we need additional pumps in an emergency.

Sumo makes a High flow pump that is labeled as 4250 GPH for around $200, seems like cheap insurance 

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We had to use an old school throw over pump to help save my buddy's 247, although luckily we were at the docks.   Odd story - he'd been out all season and 4 hours that morning when we stopped for lunch.  Coming back from lunch to the dock, we noticed his boat sitting very low in the water.   Luckily, it was at the same marina as his lift, so he motored over to his lift.  The lift couldn't even begin to raise the boat it was sitting so heavy.   We couldn't find leaks anywhere so I started diving - and sure enough, his transom drain plug had fallen out.   We stuffed a shirt in the hole and the throw over pump was enough to empty the boat so it could be lifted.   

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Thx for sharing, glad everyone got home safe and we all sympathize with the stress of being the Captain in a precarious situation like that.  

The couple times I've taken a rogue wave over the bow it's insane how much water that is.

FWIW, this is a basically a new boat right? I suspect the small amount of loose fiberglass is nothing to worry about - with that amount of water sloshing around in all the crevices, it probably just grabbed some loose stuff from mfg...but definitely take a look for visible cracks. 

And an alternative idea to letting it sit in the water and see if water seeps in - try the reverse: on trailer, "fill" it with a hose and look for water seeping out. I found a leak in my jon boat this way as I found a few drops of water underneath and made it was easier to track down source than looking in a bilge and just seeing eater that came from "somewhere"

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Wow. Scary. Hopefully no real damage. I think the only thing I would add is go ahead and make a call to someone near, whether it's friends or cops, let them know you are concerned about making it back to a dock. Thanks for sharing, that is sobering.

Steve B.

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Yes, wow. That sounds like a scary time. I took a big wave over the bow once when I had some big high school boys up front. Water was up to my ankles in the walk through. I opened the center compartment to allow the water to drain into the bilge and got the boys out of the bow. We then had to sit for about 15 minutes while the pump emptied the bilge. That freaked me out and it was just a one time thing, not a continued onslaught.

I agree that the fiberglass you found is likely just construction debris.

Glad you are ok.

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21 hours ago, amartin said:

What lake?  I am on the second largest lake in Texas (Livingston) and it can get pretty wind blown and bad.  There definitely are days that I choose to not leave the dock because of wind driven waves.  
Did you deploy your wedge?  This is the best option in my opinion as your are not putting actual weight in the boat, but can significantly raise the bow at slow speeds. 

glad that you made it back safely. 

This was at Texoma.  Good point about the wedge, I didn't think to use it.  

Edited by platon20
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On 4/30/2023 at 7:59 AM, Stevo said:

I keep my old school 1100GPH throw over ballast pump in my boat tool kit just in case we need additional pumps in an emergency.

Sumo makes a High flow pump that is labeled as 4250 GPH for around $200, seems like cheap insurance 

yup. Im on small bodies so the waves are not a big deal. but any other sinking emergency will be helped with my sumo. its rated that high and really does get damn near that fast. I do use it for above storage bags normally, so insurance and actual use for me

 

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I had something similar happen a couple years back I was taking my nephew and his friends out at the end of the day against my better judgement in mild to moderate increasing winds but didn't want to disappoint.  30 minutes later we were in a full on microburst.  Thunder/Lightening/Hail, 50mph winds, it was insane. Luckily were only 1/2 mile from our marina but it took 15 minutes to get there and I was sweating bullets the whole way.  Had both bilges going, and the sumo throw over as well.  That one experience is the main reason why I haven't put lead in my bow.  I don't think I could have kept it under control with any extra weight that couldn't be rapidly redistributed.  I haven't considered deploying the wedge in that kind of situation - it could really help!

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Thanks for sharing.  I echo everyone else. I keep a throw over pump just in case.  I also have my reversible hooked up to a hose that I can put anywhere in the boat to act as a aux bildge etc. (Side note on that, I use it as a hose way more than I ever expected)  I have a much smaller boat and have had it in not the best weather.  The wedge, and stuffing everyone in the stern helped.  I've taken rollers over the stern when putting it on the trailer. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Can always pull the hose off your PNP bag and put it in the bilge to let the ballast pump do the draining.  I did that once when my bilge failed (I don't have PNP, just a custom ballast setup with impeller pumps, but it works well).  

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1 hour ago, Nitrousbird said:

Can always pull the hose off your PNP bag and put it in the bilge to let the ballast pump do the draining.  I did that once when my bilge failed (I don't have PNP, just a custom ballast setup with impeller pumps, but it works well).  

Didn’t even think of that great idea bro!!!!!! 

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Update:

Took the boat out again today.  Good news and bad news.

Good news is that there are no leaks on the boat.  Center compartment, V drive compartment, and engine bilge were all dry as a bone on the water.

More good news -- engine oil looks perfect.

Here's the bad news -- apparently the water submerged the V-drive because today when I checked the V-drive oil it was milky and had lots of bubbles in it.

So obviously I will change the V drive oil.

Here are my questions:

1.  Am I going to have to change out the oil multiple times to get the water out?

2. Do I need to run the engine for awhile before draining the V drive oil to heat it up and make it easier to drain out?

3.  In order to move the new V drive oil thru all the gears/bearings, do I need to rev up to a certain RPM after filling with new oil?  Or just let it run in neutral for 5-10 mins?

4.  If the existing water in the V drive oil damaged the transmission, what kind of sounds would that make and how would it feel on the water?  When I ran the boat today everything sounded perfectly normal.

5.  How much does a brand new V drive cost?  Are we talking something reasonable like a few thousand or are we talking 20k or something ridiculous.

 

 

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If you have the VD that uses the Mobil SHC 630 oil which is a gear oil @ 80wt viscosity IIRC, IME it will normally be bubbly in comparison to an ATF fluid. I checked mine last weekend and it was what I consider to be bubbly, probably due to aeration and an odd color like it might of gotten water in it which I know for certain it hasn’t. That’s not to say yours didn’t. I would swap it run it long enough to cycle the new oil through the lines, suck it out and refill. I have seen some VDs that looked to be 50/50 water and ATF that had been run that way for years. The newer trans might be more delicate than a Walter, but I doubt it. My Walter was pretty quiet in comparison to my Hurth, which sounded like a bag of fighting cats and the one on my ‘19 is somewhere in between. I think that is mainly due to the gear oil, BICBW. Good luck.

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If your lube looks white and creamy - you have water in it.  There are emulsifiers in your lube additive package that prevent water falling out and causing way worse issues.  My gut new lube should take care of it. 

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The gear oil doens't look white/creamy but it does look dark brown like chocolate milk and it's very opaque.  

New gear oil fresh out of the bottle has an clear amber/orange/red appearance to it.

 

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FWIW, it was alluded to earlier but I had concerns on my v drive a few years back and flushed my fluid several times. My dealer advised there is certainly a difference between milky and bubbly   Below was my concern, which actually is normal and bubbly vs being milky.  

 

 

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