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SSLXi Ballast Plan


jetskipro550

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In the first picture you can see that I ran the hoses all the way to the trunk and ran them up behind the rear seat. In the second picture I then split them to each side of the boat and ran them down the gun wells.

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I ran the drain line out of the sack and into the pump which is under the rear seat then I ran it to the trunk where it will exit the boat through a thru-hull. You can see the drain line laying in the trunk in the picture above^

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Also, I was thinking about making it so that the front and rear sacks fill using the same pump, but empty on their own.

Keep them separate if at all possible. If you're going to use separate empty pumps, then you're going to need 2 switches anyway. A manifold like what you've posted wouldn't be hard to build at all.

Vent....On a stock system, they usually use a y fitting that the vent line hooks into the fill line close to where it goes into the tank. Now, the orientation of the fitting is such that it shouldn't have water easily going out of the overflow before the tank is full, but I've seen a lot of systems that spew water well before it's full. This sounds like the way that yours is hooked up, & if Madras did it then that's probably the case. Ideally, you want the overflow on it's own line coming directly off of the bag, so if you have a third valve on the bag that isn't being utilized, then I'd start there. You shouldn't need any valves to get it working correctly.

Incidentally, did you buy the boat from Madras? If so, when?

WakeGirl - Ideally, where would the vent line go from the third valve on the bag? T into the drain line?

It can T into the drain line (past the pump) or have its own outlet. It makes no difference.

I actually believe that having its own outlet is best. If you tee it into the drain line, that's fine, but there is the potential for having water come back into the sack through the vent line while you're draining if you do it that way. Then you've got to look into check valves....it's simpler to have its own outlet if possible.

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Also, I was thinking about making it so that the front and rear sacks fill using the same pump, but empty on their own.

Keep them separate if at all possible. If you're going to use separate empty pumps, then you're going to need 2 switches anyway. A manifold like what you've posted wouldn't be hard to build at all.

Vent....On a stock system, they usually use a y fitting that the vent line hooks into the fill line close to where it goes into the tank. Now, the orientation of the fitting is such that it shouldn't have water easily going out of the overflow before the tank is full, but I've seen a lot of systems that spew water well before it's full. This sounds like the way that yours is hooked up, & if Madras did it then that's probably the case. Ideally, you want the overflow on it's own line coming directly off of the bag, so if you have a third valve on the bag that isn't being utilized, then I'd start there. You shouldn't need any valves to get it working correctly.

Incidentally, did you buy the boat from Madras? If so, when?

WakeGirl - Ideally, where would the vent line go from the third valve on the bag? T into the drain line?

It can T into the drain line (past the pump) or have its own outlet. It makes no difference.

I actually believe that having its own outlet is best. If you tee it into the drain line, that's fine, but there is the potential for having water come back into the sack through the vent line while you're draining if you do it that way. Then you've got to look into check valves....it's simpler to have its own outlet if possible.

If you do put the overflows on their own outlets is there any need for a valve on these lines, or can they just remain open?

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Also, I was thinking about making it so that the front and rear sacks fill using the same pump, but empty on their own.

Keep them separate if at all possible. If you're going to use separate empty pumps, then you're going to need 2 switches anyway. A manifold like what you've posted wouldn't be hard to build at all.

Vent....On a stock system, they usually use a y fitting that the vent line hooks into the fill line close to where it goes into the tank. Now, the orientation of the fitting is such that it shouldn't have water easily going out of the overflow before the tank is full, but I've seen a lot of systems that spew water well before it's full. This sounds like the way that yours is hooked up, & if Madras did it then that's probably the case. Ideally, you want the overflow on it's own line coming directly off of the bag, so if you have a third valve on the bag that isn't being utilized, then I'd start there. You shouldn't need any valves to get it working correctly.

Incidentally, did you buy the boat from Madras? If so, when?

WakeGirl - Ideally, where would the vent line go from the third valve on the bag? T into the drain line?

It can T into the drain line (past the pump) or have its own outlet. It makes no difference.

I actually believe that having its own outlet is best. If you tee it into the drain line, that's fine, but there is the potential for having water come back into the sack through the vent line while you're draining if you do it that way. Then you've got to look into check valves....it's simpler to have its own outlet if possible.

If you do put the overflows on their own outlets is there any need for a valve on these lines, or can they just remain open?

They can remain open with no real problems that I can think of. The only problem that you may run into is if you can't get the outlet high enough. If that happens, then the pressure from the bag can push water out of the vent until it's released enough. But you can always add a valve after the fact if you run into that difficulty.

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Its not much more work to just add a separate overflow line with its own thru-hull. I made my 4th trip to Home Depot today and FINALLY got all the plumbing parts that I needed. I am back down at school, but since I will be heading up home for Easter next weekend I will just finish it up then. The only thing I need now is some switches, and an idea of where to mount them...

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Its not much more work to just add a separate overflow line with its own thru-hull. I made my 4th trip to Home Depot today and FINALLY got all the plumbing parts that I needed. I am back down at school, but since I will be heading up home for Easter next weekend I will just finish it up then. The only thing I need now is some switches, and an idea of where to mount them...

Ah, I'm afraid to say it, but you have many more trips to make if you haven't begun the wiring. :) You can't do a project like this without at least 8 trips to the hardware store.

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Does anyone have any pictures or ideas of where to mount two extra switches on/near the dash? Under the dash the space is pretty much used up by 3 PAC-LC1's and we have no unused switches on the dash.

Also, before I give a dealer a call, does anyone have two switches for a 99 that they would be willing to sell? :)

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Skicrave was going to send me a pic of a seperate mounting plate for 2 Switches but I haven't seen it yet... (Hint , Hint) but i have the same dilemma with the switches.... I just bought a couple of Carling switches that were on/off/on... They were not very much money.... Let me know what you end up doing...

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Skicrave was going to send me a pic of a seperate mounting plate for 2 Switches but I haven't seen it yet... (Hint , Hint) but i have the same dilemma with the switches.... I just bought a couple of Carling switches that were on/off/on... They were not very much money.... Let me know what you end up doing...

I guess I am going to have to make/buy some sort of mounting bracket/plate and just put them...somewhere...? I am going to pick up the switches sometime this week and I will check around for some some sort of bracket or plate to mount them to. It should be all done by this weekend and then I will let you know what I (hopefully) came up.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I decided to head home last night and finish up the ballast system. I ran the wiring, installed the thru -hulls, and hooked it all up. The pumps work, the wiring looks clean and hidden, and the switches look as good as they can for not being the same as the others. I ended up mounting them just above the fuse panel, as far forward as I could. They are just simple on-off-on switches where "up" is drain and "down" is fill. I made one small mistake which others couldn't notice, but it sticks out like a sore thumb to me. One of the thru-hulls is about a 1/8-1/16 of an inch lower then the other Frustrated.gif I have no idea how that happened, they were all measured perfectly, I must have slipped while starting the hole :(

Its all done, its not raining, but I have to head back to school and I won't get to water test it (to make sure the pumps all prime and that there are no leaks) for at least another week or so Cry.gif

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let us know how using the drain hole works

I am considering the same...

I figure that I might have to disconnect it when it comes time for oil changes

that is, if that's how the dealer changes the oil

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let us know how using the drain hole works

I am considering the same...

I figure that I might have to disconnect it when it comes time for oil changes

that is, if that's how the dealer changes the oil

Hmmm...thats one thing I didn't even think of. Although we only change our oil once a season and its done by our mechanic when we get the boat winterized, so its his problem not mine Biggrin.gif

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let us know how using the drain hole works

I am considering the same...

I figure that I might have to disconnect it when it comes time for oil changes

that is, if that's how the dealer changes the oil

Hmmm...thats one thing I didn't even think of. Although we only change our oil once a season and its done by our mechanic when we get the boat winterized, so its his problem not mine Biggrin.gif

Sun is out at my house....and there is no one down at the river, I just drove by. You could do it now if you really wanted to.

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let us know how using the drain hole works

I am considering the same...

I figure that I might have to disconnect it when it comes time for oil changes

that is, if that's how the dealer changes the oil

Hmmm...thats one thing I didn't even think of. Although we only change our oil once a season and its done by our mechanic when we get the boat winterized, so its his problem not mine Biggrin.gif

Sun is out at my house....and there is no one down at the river, I just drove by. You could do it now if you really wanted to.

I am back down in Eugene though. So did you figure out if you will be working that weekend yet? You should have came out to the bar with us last night! We got the hook up on drinks!!!

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Its ALL done Yahoo.gif and the river was GLASS!!! I had some small problems with leaks where the hoses attached to the sacks, and the port side not wanting to drain real fast. But all in all it was pretty good and my fill times weren't terrible, maybe 7-8 minutes.

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Here are the sacks all nice and plump Clap.gif I did have trouble at first with the pumps not priming while sitting on the trailer, but as soon as I got out on the river they filled with no issues.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Looks great. Just a personal preference, I think I would change your switches to the rocker type. I can see those switches getting busted off by an errant leg under there. Just an idea :)

Shawn

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Looks great. Just a personal preference, I think I would change your switches to the rocker type. I can see those switches getting busted off by an errant leg under there. Just an idea :)

Shawn

Those are rocker switches. I thought about that, but are out of the reach of my knee. Someone significantly taller then me might hit it though...

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Could you have used the accessory switches on the dash? Did you put a bag up front?

All switches were being used. The "stereo" switch is what controls the front (ski locker) sack. It was installed by the dealer previous to us owning the boat.

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