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Engine possibly froze


wakesetta12

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So I lost power, had some cold weather, but I don't think it was ever freezing temps for more than 12 hours... Anyways... Tested the boat out today. No water in oil but I have water coming out of this block off plate when driving... Not sure what to do. I'm assuming a freeze plug?  Any advice is appreciated. I don't really have an understanding how freeze plugs work.

 

https://imgur.com/a/UsEGOKR

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I believe on some blocks there is a freeze plug in that part of the motor.  Could be it came loose or the block is cracked.  
 

freeze plugs are stamped plugs that are pushed into holes left from the casting process.  They may get pushed out during a freeze event and save the block by allowing the ice to expand.  Or they may not save anything and just get pushed out.  Probably going to have to pull the motor and take a look to see what’s wrong.  Worst case, rebuild with new block or do a motor swap.  Best case, put in a new freeze plug and put the motor back in.  Also might be able to seal a small crack with welding or epoxy.  

Edited by Bluefishcay
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I believe that isa photo of the plate that covers the lower flywheel starter mount at the bell housing. There are freeze plugs on the end of the block which is covered by the bell housing and on the sides.   Here is a photo of one.

841CB4EA-3595-4F0F-87E3-CEBFC4BACECF.jpeg

76DC44D7-273E-4145-95D5-39B329888986.jpeg

Edited by Bozboat
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1 hour ago, wakesetta12 said:

So I lost power, had some cold weather, but I don't think it was ever freezing temps for more than 12 hours... Anyways... Tested the boat out today. No water in oil but I have water coming out of this block off plate when driving... Not sure what to do. I'm assuming a freeze plug?  Any advice is appreciated. I don't really have an understanding how freeze plugs work.

 

https://imgur.com/a/UsEGOKR

if it was only barely below freezing (30F?) for like 12 hours, thats probably not cold/long enough to fully freeze the water inside - thermal mass of the engine is big, and being underneath a cover means little airflow which slows convection etc.  So i personally doubt all the water froze inside and pushed such a freeze plug out...then again, a small pocket of water could certainly freeze faster than the bulk and crack a fitting.  

so i'm predicting with @Bluefishcay's best-case scenario that its just a small leak that will get fixed with a new plug or epoxy or something simple 

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I believe you have a V drive from the picture.  Have not done a V drive, but I assume it’s the same as a direct drive,  remove the motor mounts, disconnect the coupler, lift the motor out then you can remove the “transmission” to get to the back of the engine.  Probably less than 8 hrs of work to go in and out.  If it’s a direct drive maybe quicker.  Unfortunately to get to the back of the block the transmission has to come off the engine.  

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@wakesetta12 -  You should be able to get some temperature data off any weather app, that will tell you how long it was below freezing.  The iron block is a pretty substantial heat sink so it would require pretty cold / long duration to freeze hard.  It appears you have alternate exhaust manifolds, make sure there is nothing there that is the issue.  Find a plate or sight hole you can peer down and view the core plugs in the back of the block (there will be 2) to verify the source prior to separating the engine from the Vdrive / trans.  If a core plug the source, you will have to get access to install a new one.

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Had a mechanic check er out, the heater core or hoses in front of the boat are putting out a ton of water.  The water comes out of that dump only when the boat is driving with the front up in air and water is rushing backwards.  https://imgur.com/a/UsEGOKR

 

Is there any reason why the water would only come out then?  He thinks there is no engine issues and the issue may just be the heater core/hoses.  But I don't understand why water would come out of there regardless.  Could it be that the water isn't reaching that part of the engine until the front of boat is higher than the engine forcing water back? Or is there some sort of way water would drain out of there when the boat takes on a bunch of water.... 

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it's easy to bypass the heater.   i'd start there and insure that the engine runs well and is healthy before moving on to the heater issue.

 

heater core and hoses are easy to pull and inspect.

a large warning: don't add too much pressure to any testing as it can easily blow out that core.

i'd lean towards an air compressor that is limited to 5 or 10-ish psi and shy away from water hose (that can easily tip 60 psi.

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