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2007 Blank Malibu Graphical in dash display fix


RebesMalibu

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7 hours ago, RebesMalibu said:

After talking with a coworker, we determined that some of the aluminum capacitors were bad on the main board. After replacing all of the aluminum capacitors with ceramic capacitors, my screen was back to working again.

I'm not sure I would have replaced aluminum electrolytic caps with ceramic, but if it is working you probably will be OK for quite a while.  Good job!

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You sound like you are well schooled on boards. Would you have any suggestion how I can turn the depth display off completely  and still have the rest of the disay screen functional 

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36 minutes ago, surferboy said:

You sound like you are well schooled on boards. Would you have any suggestion how I can turn the depth display off completely  and still have the rest of the disay screen functional 

I don't think there is an option to disable it.  You could try a couple things.  1. unplug the transducer from the depth module under the dash. 2. Unplug the depth module so it can no longer communicate with the other devices. I have no idea whether either item will work to disable it. Remember to always disconnect the battery before you plug in or unplug any electronic devices. 

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On 9/29/2022 at 7:55 PM, justgary said:

I'm not sure I would have replaced aluminum electrolytic caps with ceramic, but if it is working you probably will be OK for quite a while.  Good job!

I was relying on the expertise of my coworker. From what he said, ceramic capacitor technology was somewhat limited in 2007. Since then they have improved both in capacitance and voltage ratings. He also mention that aluminum capacitors can slowly go bad over time due to the electrolyte. He said ceramic capacitors usually only go bad if abused physically or electrically. 

Edited by RebesMalibu
  • Like 3
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Awesome fix and communication about it. Issues sometimes seem un-fixable so it's great to have a good set of eyes taking a look. Technicians that find awesome solutions like this amaze me.

Steve B.

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I have unplugged the transducer wire going to the module. No success. . Still flashes 1.5 ft.

I do not want to start changing parts without knowing which one is bad, module or transducer. Any further suggestions? I am considering  your 2nd option however  doing that I loose cruise control and other displayed  parameters.

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11 hours ago, RebesMalibu said:

I was relying on the expertise of my coworker. From what he said, ceramic capacitor technology was somewhat limited in 2007. Since then they have improved both in capacitance and voltage ratings. He also mention that aluminum capacitors can slowly go bad over time due to the electrolyte. He said ceramic capacitors usually only go bad if abused physically or electrically. 

Ceramic caps may be better now, but the world was filled with bad capacitors for many years after somebody stole a mis-copied electrolyte formula from a company.  The common fix during that time for anything that quit working was to replace all of the electrolytics with new ones from good sources.  I'm not saying that your screen had the problem, but it is near the end of the time frame of the issues.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

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  • 7 months later...

I replaced a screen with the one from Bakes and found it glitchy in heat. I added a small heatsink to the regulator on the board and it fixed the glitch.

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  • 2 months later...
On 10/3/2022 at 9:59 PM, RebesMalibu said:

Old capacitors453BF3A0-37B0-4F0E-ABE8-331C614000F1.thumb.jpeg.77020a1efd1ecfd618d1eb2327eb5e6d.jpeg

New capacitors C64C3431-1A2C-463E-B5A5-E31DBCE9DDD7.thumb.jpeg.ab01c8ac8dd803082b335a58afe8f41b.jpeg
 

Screen works!

3B85EDFA-9468-4CF4-A616-1D8D103CC84B.thumb.jpeg.89cc9cddf0447005282400b071edfe03.jpeg

Is this repair still holding up?  I think I have the same or similar problem.  Sometimes the display will work fine at start up and stays on, and sometimes it won't come on at start up, but if I drop a fricken peoples elbow on it then I usually get it to turn on.  Once it's on it stays on, until I shut the boat off.  Then it's 50/50 whether it starts up or gets the elbow.  

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9 hours ago, Ndawg12 said:

Is this repair still holding up?  I think I have the same or similar problem.  Sometimes the display will work fine at start up and stays on, and sometimes it won't come on at start up, but if I drop a fricken peoples elbow on it then I usually get it to turn on.  Once it's on it stays on, until I shut the boat off.  Then it's 50/50 whether it starts up or gets the elbow.  

I haven’t had any further issues. I probably have about 25 hours on the boat since the repair. I never tried the hit it method. 

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