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hit wake, no instrument clusters and no ignition


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2002 sunscape lsv

Hit a wake tubing with a few kids on the back, had done this several times over the last week with no problems. This wake was a little more jarring but nothing too crazy. Engine shut off. All instrument clusters went dead including perfect pass. No response to turning key to start position and engine would not turn over. Tried battery switch at 1, 2 and ALL without any change.

Other accessories do work (bilge, blower, lights etc). Batteries seem to be connected well, no fuses (that I could find) seem blown, red engine breaker not flipped, cannon plug pulled inspected and plugged back in... fuel meter has never worked in boat for me but today the rpms also were not working but had been working in past outings. 

I'm sure it's something simple, but eventually had to be towed back to ramp. Boat was running like a top before hitting the wake.

Edited by Zloe
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Wires are ridiculously difficult to get to on my boat... but simply pushing in the lanyard red button as far as it'll go does not fix the issue.  Will attempt a bypass tomorrow.

Certainly seems like a killswitch issue after reading into it.

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So I took the control panel off under the throttle in an attempt to reach the kill switch wiring. Found that "ignition/horn" was not hooked up. Funny, because the horn was working just fine while the ignition system/instrument cluster was not. Hooked that up and instrument cluster revived but attempting to bump the starter via key didn't produce anything (made sure the lanyard was on the kill switch and even jumped the 2 kill switch wires).

 

Starter not getting any juice but glad I found the unplugged ignition connection.

Several threads here have been very helpful. Thanks everyone!

Edited by Zloe
  • Like 1
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Kill switch just prevents the motor from starting… gauges will move on key up, motor will turn over, just won’t fire.

I’d keep checking all the wire connections especially since you found one disconnected. Then walk through the no start guide that @tvano linked for you.

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Had a similar issue on my 2010 years back. Turns out it was a bad spade connector on backside of the master ignition reset button. I could smack the panel and it would shut off, smack it again and viola.

image.jpeg.0034a16cdcb0a3cdb134fce9bb376e08.jpeg

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55 minutes ago, wdr said:

Had a similar issue on my 2010 years back. Turns out it was a bad spade connector on backside of the master ignition reset button. I could smack the panel and it would shut off, smack it again and viola.

image.jpeg.0034a16cdcb0a3cdb134fce9bb376e08.jpeg

My master ignition spade connection was unplugged (from bump). But plugged it in, engine still not turning over but dash instrument clusters now working...

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Had this exact issue on my 2006 when it was still new...we hit a wake when turning around and the boat died.  It had stumbled a few times before when going over them but didn't completely die.  Ended up being the kill switch where the lanyard connects...wasn't pushing the plunger down far enough on the switch to maintain the connection.  I found a dime and placed it between the plunger and the lanyard and 'voila no more issues.  The dime is still there after 16 years and working fine.  It was said back then that there were a bad batch of kill switches but I never bothered getting it replaced.

  • Like 2
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2 hours ago, tvano said:

consider starting here 

 

Amazing resource. I'm printing this off to keep with the boat. 

Going to take a look at the neutral switch as well as some other connections. As this engine was recently installed I have a feeling It's a connection that got knocked loose somewhere or something wasn't tightened adequately. 

Currently no crank is my issue. Can hear fuel pump turn on, but no juice/current getting to starter it seems.

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Wish it was that...

Or is this something that manually needs to he done (moving it to neutral) somewhere other than Morse throttle?

Edited by Zloe
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2 hours ago, Zloe said:

Wish it was that...

Or is this something that manually needs to he done (moving it to neutral) somewhere other than Morse throttle?

Actually might not be a bad idea to check that the shift cable is still connected at both ends. If you have the brass connectors like I have they eventually wear out...I've had to replace the one on the control end before. Otherwise I would check the wiring/function of the ignition switch if you haven't yet. 

  • Like 2
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Interesting @drh. My cable seems to be working well for now. 

Neutral safety switch connection is completely corroded. Question, any problem with jumping the neutral safety switch wires to confirm that that is the problem? One of the connection screws won't even tighten. Just turns and turns. Like it's stripped. So it would make sense a jarring bump could loosen it.

 

Also was checking some other connections at the engine and found a light blue wire on the starboard/right side of engine that basically broke off.  Looks like it was connected to some sore of solenoid right under injectors 5/7 and also under the exhaust manifold. Any idea what that wire does or goes to? will be a really tight spot to reconnect it. If a ground wire ill find a new spot.

Edited by Zloe
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2 hours ago, Zloe said:

Neutral safety switch connection is completely corroded. Question, any problem with jumping the neutral safety switch wires to confirm that that is the problem?

Sounds like you might be on to it....jump it and see. No problem with that.

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Thought for sure the nss would be it. Jumped it, still no cranking....

 

Can't even get it to crank over when jumping battery to starter. tried positive battery to positive solenoid with and without grounding to negative terminal and engine? What the heck?

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22 minutes ago, williemon said:

Starter broken? Could engine be locked? Can engine be turned over by hand? 

No idea. Lol. Anything possible at this point.

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If I jump pins at starter relay, we have crank! So somewhere from ignition to starter relay there is an issue (or the starter relay, but I swapped the relay with another and no change to symptoms). Still don't understand why jumping battery to starter solenoid didn't turn it over...

Edited by Zloe
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examine the pins in the relay connector CLOSELY.  use a magnifying glass.

damaged plastic retaining pins in the outer shell caused one of my metal relay connector pins to very slightly back out.  

if you don't get satisfaction at the relay then move to the ign switch after metering the wire between the ign sw and the relay.

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Also try turning the key ON and then momentarily jumping B to S on the back of the key switch.  That should bump the starter.  I suppose you could just use your meter to test for voltage at I with key on and at S with key to start, but that isn't near as fun....

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