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Impeller housing not round


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Can't tell from the pictures about the screw but the housing is supposed to be that shape.

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Thanks, having a bear of a time getting the old one out. Mind you, first time doing it on a v-drive. 

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formulaben

Spray some WD-40 inside the shaft.  Bump the starter a couple times (don't run the engine.)  Now, reach in with needle-nose pliers at the top of the pump and grab the vane nearest the 12 o'clock position.  While pushing the pliers downward onto the squished part of the impeller, simultaneously pull outward.  If you can match/equalize the pressure exerted by the vanes upward onto the shaft she'll slip right out easily.  Takes a few times to get it right, but super easy with some practice.

 

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Thanks for the tips. Got her out with the paint can tool trick. Looks like just a slight drip about 1 drip per 10 seconds for the kissing screw but on the backside of the housing there is a leak, again a slight one nothing that’s too concerning to me as water is supposed to be in the bilge of these boats. 
 

the previous owner did some hoaky stuff on this boat that I’m having to constantly fix back to the way it should be. Changing the pump out is not something high on the priority list. 

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I would venture to say the back side leak is from the input shaft seal being bad. You can replace the seal and save $100 or so  or replace the whole housing and save a ton of aggravation. For the screw, if you can access the back side you might be able to screw it out the backside with a pair of pliers if enough thread is showing. I replaced my brass screws with  SS ones for less worry on my yearly checks. If your pump is leaking, which it isn’t supposed to, it is on its way out. 1 hour or 100 hours is anyones guess. I would push that to the front of the to do list or at least get a new one in hand so you don’t ruin the rest of your summer waiting for one that potentially won’t be in for a couple months. JM2C

Edited by wdr
Sp
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Leak from the back side of the pump is a pretty easy fix.  You can replace the seal for a couple bucks.  The pump will have to come out to do that, but once it's out, it's a 10 min job tops to replace that seal.

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Is there a write up for that on here? Searching isn’t my strong suit and neither is technology.

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27 minutes ago, wdr said:

I would venture to say the back side leak is from the input shaft seal being bad. You can replace the seal and save $100 or so  or replace the whole housing and save a ton of aggravation. For the screw, if you can access the back side you might be able to screw it out the backside with a pair of pliers if enough thread is showing. I replaced my brass screws with  SS ones for less worry on my yearly checks. If your pump is leaking, which it isn’t supposed to, it is on its way out. 1 hour or 100 hours is anyones guess. I would push that to the front of the to do list or at least get a new one in hand so you don’t ruin the rest of your summer waiting for one that potentially won’t be in for a couple months. JM2C

Is there a part number for this that you have on hand? I’ll order one up. Looks pretty simple to swap out. 

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That was on my 2010 a number of years ago, so sorry no part#. I walked into the dealer and picked it up. It is a very simple swap. Pull the belt and the aligning bar and pull the whole assembly out. 

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26 minutes ago, ThinBuLine said:

Is there a write up for that on here? Searching isn’t my strong suit and neither is technology.

Seal and other parts can be found here: https://www.skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1171

Here's how to do it from my comment on a previous topic. Link might be dead now:

Here's a pdf from Team Talk with instructions on rebuilding the pump: link You won't need to worry about removing the bearings from the shaft if they look good. Basically you knock out the shaft from the back of the housing with a bar and hammer (bearings should come out on the shaft). Pull out the old seal pliers or a pick - you may have to tear it up. Then press in the new seal from the front side. I used a hydraulic press and 3/4" deep well socket for the seal but I suppose if you don't have access to one you could use the c-clamp method. This was the only tricky part since getting the seal to start straight is key to not damaging it. It's easy to start in there sideways. Then press the shaft with bearings back into the housing. I used the hydraulic press here again and I'm not sure if the c clamp would work for this part. Maybe someone else can comment if you could tap it lightly with a hammer to re-seat the bearings. Then you replace the impeller and cover and you're ready to install.

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On 6/15/2022 at 1:41 PM, ThinBuLine said:

Thanks, having a bear of a time getting the old one out. Mind you, first time doing it on a v-drive. 

I would second getting a puller.  I put it off for years being a cheapskate...finally broke down and got one a couple seasons back.  Cost me all of about $50 bucks I think lol.  So much easier than laying on belly trying to reach down between the transom and engine fumbling with a pair of paint can openers or whatever else I tried.  I always looked like I had lost a fight with a bobcat each time and cussed more than a sailor. 

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